Nitrous and Stall Converter rpm
#1
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Nitrous and Stall Converter rpm
I wasn't sure whether or not to post this in the Nitrous or Automatic section so I believe I'll let you guys be the judge here as this is where I'm posting it. Whilst planning ahead in the build of my car with some go fast goodies a stall converter and nitrous were both on my list. My question for you is, if a converter flashes to a certain rpm would you want to engage nitrous before its flash/stall point? If I can reword this I'll sure try; for instance a stall that is rated for 3600rpm, would it be safe/wise/in good accordance to spray at, before, or after the rated stall speed? Rpm shutoff before the switch is the easy part its the activation rpm that I'm having issues with finding out. If anyone can shed some light on this issue please do so, or if you believe that I should direct this to the nitrous forum let me know.
#2
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This will depend on your setup. Mostly your suspension setup. N20 can be safely sprayed above 2500 rpm's if I remember correctly so setting the start point to 3500 (so you the N20 kicks in right out of the gate) is perfectly safe for the motor. But this may not be safe for your traction. If you don't have a stout suspension setup and sticky tires then this will cause more harm then good at the launch.
Lets say your shift extension is 4800 for the converter and your shift point is set to 6200. If you set the N20 to activate at 4700 and deactivate at 6000 you will in essence not spray out of the hole but get a hit at the top of first, spray all of second and spray all of third while not spraying through the shifts.
But if you have a stout suspension, drivetrain and sticky tires then yes you can set it so activate at 3500 and shutoff just before the shifts (or through the shifts if you want every last tenth and have no tranny breaking fears).
Lets say your shift extension is 4800 for the converter and your shift point is set to 6200. If you set the N20 to activate at 4700 and deactivate at 6000 you will in essence not spray out of the hole but get a hit at the top of first, spray all of second and spray all of third while not spraying through the shifts.
But if you have a stout suspension, drivetrain and sticky tires then yes you can set it so activate at 3500 and shutoff just before the shifts (or through the shifts if you want every last tenth and have no tranny breaking fears).
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One thing to keep in mind is that the coverter is going to flash higher on nitrous,I have my on point set at 3200-6300 and 4200-6300 and the converter flashes at 3500 straight out of the whole on the first stage on QTP's.The converter it's self is only 2800-3000,Maybe this will help
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