tractor hydrolic fluid in place of tranny fluid to tighten up converter?
#22
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this is really interesting.
i have a local kid with a 4400 and he hates it on the top end.
its brand new and doesnt want to toss it...
will the 4l60e pump be ok with this?
how many qts or pints or w/e do u add and mix?
sending him this thread...
i have a local kid with a 4400 and he hates it on the top end.
its brand new and doesnt want to toss it...
will the 4l60e pump be ok with this?
how many qts or pints or w/e do u add and mix?
sending him this thread...
#25
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
LOL hey I was 21 lol the try it and see years
pretty amusing given the fact that you sell transmissions even if it was a few years ago lol Kinda make me wonder alil hahah
Im jus playing man
#26
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Well Im 43 now so just a few years have gone by. We didnt know. but We were always playing with the transmissions in our cars taking them in and out just to try something new, To us that was fun Man just thinking back I SHOULDA GOT A LIFE INSTEAD
Now on the TYPE F used to use it all the time in TH350 and 400s and in the 700R4 and 2004R WORKED GREAT!, Dosent have the friction modifiers so not so sure how it would do with PWM But provided it was disabled I could see how it could deliver firmer shifts and it does have a higher heat range.But have never used it in the 4L60Es.
I actually remember a shift kit I think it was TRANSGO NO YO YO they called them then and I was about 16 putting a shift kit in my 350 and I saw that it said to refill with type F so I called them and they did tell me it would make for a firmer apply, Basically the guy on the phone said it would act just like B&M trick shift that had just come out except for about a 1/4 of the price at the time and this was like 1980 and every penny counted
Now on the TYPE F used to use it all the time in TH350 and 400s and in the 700R4 and 2004R WORKED GREAT!, Dosent have the friction modifiers so not so sure how it would do with PWM But provided it was disabled I could see how it could deliver firmer shifts and it does have a higher heat range.But have never used it in the 4L60Es.
I actually remember a shift kit I think it was TRANSGO NO YO YO they called them then and I was about 16 putting a shift kit in my 350 and I saw that it said to refill with type F so I called them and they did tell me it would make for a firmer apply, Basically the guy on the phone said it would act just like B&M trick shift that had just come out except for about a 1/4 of the price at the time and this was like 1980 and every penny counted
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Last edited by performabuilt; 05-03-2007 at 10:12 PM.
#27
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The type F seems to be doing ok for me. My tranny is a 94, no PWM but there are a few people in our local club who run it in their PWM units with no complaints. Didn't notice the temps any higher from the Dex 3 to the type F. I still wont hot lap the car at the track either way. Temp has to be 150 deg or below before I will pull into the burn out box. The 3-4 clutches wont take much abuse under high heat no matter what the clutch material is. I do more than a few units for people who drive around all night then start to mix it up with the ricers with a hot tranny. Then you hear "when it shifts into third it acts like it goes into netural" OOOPS!!
Mec
Mec
#28
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Just stumbled on this looking for something else. My father uses hydraulic fluid in his truck transmissions, a gear splitter, and even as power steering fluid. The trannies are manual. We live on a farm and he buys it in 5 gallon buckets. Many hydraulics in use and the tractor transmissions call for it. I always gave him hell for using hydraulic fluid in the transmissions instead of using what is called for. Never used it in an auto but might try it now that I have read this!
#29
TransGo used the name NoYoYo on several products, but never their Shift kits. I ahve been working with TransGo for almost 30 years and have never seen them recommend type "F" oil in any GM transmission. The reason that type "F" gives the "appearance" of a firmer shift is due to how the clutches come on. Type "F" oil has the clutches slip more at the beginning of the shift, and at the end of the shift they come on all at once. That is why the shift has a more pronounced feel to it. The Dexron type oil allows the clutches to start to come on near the beginning and all the way through the shift. That is why the smoother less pronounced shift. Type "F" was used when there was asbestos in the clutche material, and the last clutches to have that were in 1977. I have talked to the tech people over the years at Borg Warner & Raybestos and they explained the differences in great detail, and said the Dexron type oil has better dynamic holding power than the type "F" oil. In other words when the 3-4 clutches come on during the 2-3 shift, the Dexron oil has more holding power than a type "F" oil. This is a very brief summary of the differences. Any questions on this and I will be glad to explain, and I hope this helps.
#30
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Originally Posted by PBA
TransGo used the name NoYoYo on several products, but never their Shift kits. I ahve been working with TransGo for almost 30 years and have never seen them recommend type "F" oil in any GM transmission. The reason that type "F" gives the "appearance" of a firmer shift is due to how the clutches come on. Type "F" oil has the clutches slip more at the beginning of the shift, and at the end of the shift they come on all at once. That is why the shift has a more pronounced feel to it. The Dexron type oil allows the clutches to start to come on near the beginning and all the way through the shift. That is why the smoother less pronounced shift. Type "F" was used when there was asbestos in the clutche material, and the last clutches to have that were in 1977. I have talked to the tech people over the years at Borg Warner & Raybestos and they explained the differences in great detail, and said the Dexron type oil has better dynamic holding power than the type "F" oil. In other words when the 3-4 clutches come on during the 2-3 shift, the Dexron oil has more holding power than a type "F" oil. This is a very brief summary of the differences. Any questions on this and I will be glad to explain, and I hope this helps.
#31
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Well It was the early 80s late 70s and it was a 350 and I remember seeing no yo yo some where in the instructions and another place it said to refill with type F after the install . We were curious about this I was only 16-17 years old and so we called and they said that right and so we did it worked well . Of course it would have only been like 1/3 mix of type F but all was fine, But over the years though for the most part other than that 350 I have run dexron but I have known many people to run TYPE F in 400 and TH350 trans and it didnt seem to cause any issues.
Originally Posted by PBA
TransGo used the name NoYoYo on several products, but never their Shift kits. I ahve been working with TransGo for almost 30 years and have never seen them recommend type "F" oil in any GM transmission. The reason that type "F" gives the "appearance" of a firmer shift is due to how the clutches come on. Type "F" oil has the clutches slip more at the beginning of the shift, and at the end of the shift they come on all at once. That is why the shift has a more pronounced feel to it. The Dexron type oil allows the clutches to start to come on near the beginning and all the way through the shift. That is why the smoother less pronounced shift. Type "F" was used when there was asbestos in the clutche material, and the last clutches to have that were in 1977. I have talked to the tech people over the years at Borg Warner & Raybestos and they explained the differences in great detail, and said the Dexron type oil has better dynamic holding power than the type "F" oil. In other words when the 3-4 clutches come on during the 2-3 shift, the Dexron oil has more holding power than a type "F" oil. This is a very brief summary of the differences. Any questions on this and I will be glad to explain, and I hope this helps.
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#32
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I hate to bring up a old thread, but i guess it better than starting a new one.
I just put 2 gal of tractor trans hydrolic fluid and 1 gal of dex 3 in my car. Guy who built my tranny said it keeps his 30 degrees cooler according to the temp gage. Just wondering if anyone has had any bad side affects of this, like a pump failure etc??
I just put 2 gal of tractor trans hydrolic fluid and 1 gal of dex 3 in my car. Guy who built my tranny said it keeps his 30 degrees cooler according to the temp gage. Just wondering if anyone has had any bad side affects of this, like a pump failure etc??
#35
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Running the HyGard, 303 Tractor fluid or the Amsoil compressor oil does tighten the converter a couple hundred rpms over the Dextron fluids. They also are more resistant to burning (especially the Amsoil Compressor oil), but these fluids should only be run in the
TH350, TH350 and Glides that run a metal style mesh tranny filter. The standard fabric filters can cause pump cavitation and hurt the transmission.
These fluids are popular among the turbo guys because of the heat they put on the transmission/converter.
TH350, TH350 and Glides that run a metal style mesh tranny filter. The standard fabric filters can cause pump cavitation and hurt the transmission.
These fluids are popular among the turbo guys because of the heat they put on the transmission/converter.
#36
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Running the HyGard, 303 Tractor fluid or the Amsoil compressor oil does tighten the converter a couple hundred rpms over the Dextron fluids. They also are more resistant to burning (especially the Amsoil Compressor oil), but these fluids should only be run in the
TH350, TH350 and Glides that run a metal style mesh tranny filter. The standard fabric filters can cause pump cavitation and hurt the transmission.
These fluids are popular among the turbo guys because of the heat they put on the transmission/converter.
TH350, TH350 and Glides that run a metal style mesh tranny filter. The standard fabric filters can cause pump cavitation and hurt the transmission.
These fluids are popular among the turbo guys because of the heat they put on the transmission/converter.
#37
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The same reason you wanted to loosen yours actually. Some cars may have a converter that has the ideal shift extension and then they swap to a set of better cylinder heads or camshaft that allows the car to produce more HP/TQ. That added HP/TQ could make that ideal 4000 stall a 4300 stall. In some cases they may be on the ragged edge of hitting the rpm limiter when going through the traps and the new found HP/TQ now causes them to hit the limiter before getting to the 1/4 mile traps.
Again, this fluid change is not recommended for electronic shift automatic transmissions like the 4L60/4L80s.
The rpm changes with a fluid change are minimal, but sometimes a couple 100 rpms is all someone might need to make a difference.
I hope this helps.
#38
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Well this could be some of my problem.....ok i had my tranny rebuilt. When i went to the dragstrip is was hitting the rev limiter going into drive. I had my tuner do everything he could to fix it. Hes got the shift points set at 6200 and the rev at 6800 and its still hitting it. So we determined that something was wrong with the tranny. So I take it out and send it back since its under warranty. I broke some kind of shift ring that holds the clutches together. Anyways while it was out i sent my TCI converter to PTC and had it loosened to a 4000. Get everything put back together along with 2gal of the tractor trans hydrolic fluid and 1 gal of dex 3. Now it is still hitting the rev going into drive along with a new problem. When i make it down shift into 1st from lets say a 30mph roll it will gear down and then its alomst like the converter locks up right before it shifts.
#39
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I would drain the fluid and run straight type F if you are running a 4L60E and it sounds like you are.
Also make sure your fluid level is up the the full mark when hot. I know this seems like a no brainer, but a low level can cause wot shift issues.
Also make sure your fluid level is up the the full mark when hot. I know this seems like a no brainer, but a low level can cause wot shift issues.