Nitrous may be blowing through the converter - which route to go now???
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nitrous may be blowing through the converter - which route to go now???
I went to the track last night and it looks as if my nitrous may be blowing through my Fuddle 3400 TC My times N/A and on the 100 shot were pretty much the same. I verified that the nitrous was spraying correctly all the way to the airlid. (HSW single nozzle dry shot)
I made 5 runs total and they were all pretty consistent. Traction was pretty good on each run. I was only trapping between 103 and 105 and my times were between 13.08 and 13.48. The best and worst times were both nitrous runs and the N/A run was 13.39. The bottle had 1100 PSI and was over 1/2 full so that was not an issue.
Last year before the nitrous I ran the exact same setup N/A and I ran 12.9 at 105. This was before I had my car tuned. I had my car tuned because it was running way lean on the nitrous. I had it richened up. The tuner did not use a dyno to tune. It was done with EFILive and a wideband AF gauge.
I am thinking of locking my converter so that the nitrous will not blow through. Is that a good idea? What is the best way to do that?
I do not want to swap out my converter. I am hoping to find a way to get my current converter and my dry kit to work together so that I get maximum results with the two. Any ideas??? THANKS.
I made 5 runs total and they were all pretty consistent. Traction was pretty good on each run. I was only trapping between 103 and 105 and my times were between 13.08 and 13.48. The best and worst times were both nitrous runs and the N/A run was 13.39. The bottle had 1100 PSI and was over 1/2 full so that was not an issue.
Last year before the nitrous I ran the exact same setup N/A and I ran 12.9 at 105. This was before I had my car tuned. I had my car tuned because it was running way lean on the nitrous. I had it richened up. The tuner did not use a dyno to tune. It was done with EFILive and a wideband AF gauge.
I am thinking of locking my converter so that the nitrous will not blow through. Is that a good idea? What is the best way to do that?
I do not want to swap out my converter. I am hoping to find a way to get my current converter and my dry kit to work together so that I get maximum results with the two. Any ideas??? THANKS.
#2
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also what are the symptoms of spraying through the converter? My car flashes at 3400 N/A and around 4300 on the nitrous. It shifts around 6200 N/A and on the nitrous.
#4
I would say it's not spraying. I have a Fuddle 5000(on motor) and it's not blowing through the converter with a 150 shot on top of a 396 stroker. Shifting at 7000 also. I didn't watch the tach but from what I remember, it didn't flash past 5500-6000 on the juice. A 3400 should really not be effected by a 100 shot. I'd try doing a test in the pits, arm it all with the hood open, by hand, bring the revs up to 3500 and give the WOT switch a really quick tap and listen for a quick rpm inscrease. Maybe the Fuel pressure switch isn't letting it work.
#5
8 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
you are not blowing through the converter. The major symton of that would be little to no shift extension. When you shift at 6200 what does the RPM drop down to after the shift?
Im guessing 5300rpm by your setup.
And A better test would be to set the window switch to just under your idle speed, then flick the WOT switch WITH THE HOSE DISCONNECTED.
Im guessing 5300rpm by your setup.
And A better test would be to set the window switch to just under your idle speed, then flick the WOT switch WITH THE HOSE DISCONNECTED.
#7
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by koolrayz
you are not blowing through the converter. The major symton of that would be little to no shift extension. When you shift at 6200 what does the RPM drop down to after the shift?
Im guessing 5300rpm by your setup.
And A better test would be to set the window switch to just under your idle speed, then flick the WOT switch WITH THE HOSE DISCONNECTED.
Im guessing 5300rpm by your setup.
And A better test would be to set the window switch to just under your idle speed, then flick the WOT switch WITH THE HOSE DISCONNECTED.
Trending Topics
#9
8 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
Originally Posted by ARCTICWHITE98Z28
My RPMs drops down to about 5,000 after the shift. I will try the test you mentioned. How is that a better test than pushing down the WOT switch when > 3000 RPMs with the hose disconnected?
#10
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by koolrayz
The other tests that have been proposed did not entail disconnecting the hose. I like to see the results.
Later with the engine off I had my wife push the gas pedal all the way to the floor to make sure the WOT switch is indeed being pushed down (activated) by the throttle when it is floored.
Any other ideas? Thanks.
#13
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BadBlackZ
Like someone else said maybe at WOT your fuel pressure safety switch isnt letting it work. I would try flippin it on about 4500rpm WOT.