Tansgo HD-2 kit installation instructions
05-28-2007, 11:34 PM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tansgo HD-2 kit installation instructions I'm ready to do my install now and found some instructions, I looked at the install instruction sheet provided with the kit and was a little confused.
I know this is long but I have some instructions that I found which makes it's seems less confusing. Please add any missing info.
1. Remove the servo and apply piston assembly from the rear of the transmission on the passenger side. It is retained by a large snap ring, which is easiest to remove by prying the cover toward the transmission and inserting a small screwdriver into the slot to disengage the snap ring. It is easiest to remove the cover if you pull on the o’ring, cut it and slide it out. Remove the cover, the 4th piston, the housing, the second piston and the servo. You will reuse all springs but add the blue spring between the servo and the 2nd piston. While you are there, note the three-digit code on the 2nd piston, you will need it to determine which spring to install in accumulator bushing.
2. Reinstall all other parts using the new o’ring (red for the housing) and the 2 band adjustment shims supplied with the kit (leave out the blue cover o’ring until after you have tested to see if the driveshaft will still turn freely). If after installation, you cannot freely turn the driveshaft with your hands (both ways), disassemble and remove 1 of the band adjustment shims. Reinstall cover using the supplied blue o’ring
3. Remove the 16 13mm bolts securing the transmission pan. Start by removing the front bolts first and working toward the back, letting the front drop down to drain the fluid slowly.
4. Remove the filter by twisting back and forth until the filter comes free of the transmission.
5. Disconnect the wires to the various (6) solenoids on the valve body.
6. Remove the manual detent spring bolt (13mm), remove the remaining valve body attaching bolts with 8mm (3) and 10mm (14) sockets (17 total). You need not remove the two passenger side bolts on the plate attached to the valve body.
7. Lower the valve body until the manual lever hangs vertically. Slide the valve body towards the passenger side of the car until it can be pulled free of the transmission. Be careful not to lose the 7 check *****.
8. Remove three 10mm bolts attaching the 1-2 accumulator body to the passenger side rear of the transmission (inside the pan).
9. Remove the spacer plate support bolts and remove the plate. Be careful not to lose the check ball.
10. Remove the forward accumulator cover from the rear of the valve body. Check whether the piston is plastic or aluminum. If it is aluminum, replace the spring in the large bore with 2 white springs (one goes inside the other), if plastic, use only the large white spring. Place the spacer (chamfer end in) on the shaft. In the small bore, remove the roll pin with a large paper clip and then insert the 3/16" (small) ball in between the inner spring and the bore plug. Replace all other components in the reverse order of removal.
11. Remove the accumulator bushing and valve and install either the red or white spring (depending on the code on the 2nd piston.
14. Remove the solenoid (by removing its retaining clip) closest to the forward accumulator. This is the 1-2 shift solenoid. Remove the 1-2 shift valve and discard. Replace with the supplied 1-2 shift valve (including green spring and gold ball) and the original inner spring.
12. There is a plug opposite of the 1-2 shift solenoid (on the front side of the valve body). Pry out the clip, remove the plug and install the supplied purple spring. Reassemble.
13. If there is a second solenoid on the front of the valve body, remove the clip, plug, spring and valve. Discard valve and replace with (in order) white and orange spring, new pulse boost valve, TC regulator valve, original plug and clip.
14. Reinstall the 7 check ***** in the locations indicated on the instructions. A little dab of Vaseline will help to hold them in place.
15. Remove the manual shift valve and inspect. If it has a flat spot in the middle reinstall without modification. Otherwise grind a 1/16 to 3/32 chamfer around the shoulder. (see instructions for picture)
16. Drill separator plate as indicated in the instructions. The Tech department gave me a hot tip: drill hole A to .106 and holes B and E to .093 for slightly better shifts.
17. Remove the piston from the 1-2 accumulator. If it is stuck, you can use a drift and drive the pin out from the back (there is a hole). Discard original 2nd accumulator springs (see step 10). Replace with orange spring (above the piston), and blue spring, seat and 0-3 spacers (below the piston). Note that the piston goes back in upside down. Use 2 spacers originally (you may adjust the shift firmness later by reducing spacers for softer shifts and increasing the number of springs for firmer shifts). [two provided great shifts for me, very firm]
18. Remove the 3-4 accumulator piston from the transmission case, install the yellow spring and reinstall the accumulator piston with the tabs facing up (into the transmission case – this is the opposite way that it was originally installed). The original spring may be discarded.
19. Drill two 1/16" holes on top of the large screen on the spacer plate and install the supplied clip to keep it from collapsing. (Note: you will need at least three hands to hold the clip in place, raise the valve body and get a couple of bolts started.
20. Assemble the separator plate and gaskets ("C" gasket to case, then plate, then "V" gasket) and install in case and bolt on the spacer plate. It is wise to start a few other bolts in their holes to make sure everything lines up properly. Be sure to properly locate the check ball before installing the plate/gasket sandwich (use Vaseline to hold it in place). Bolt on the 1-2 accumulator and torque bolts to 8 lbs.-ft. BE CAREFUL TO USE THE PROPER LENGTH BOLTS, INSTALLING THEM IN THE INCORRECT POSITION WILL LOCK THE GEARS AND CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE TO YOUR TRANSMISSION.
21. Reinstall valve body (make sure the manual lever is properly attached to the linkage) taking care to install the proper length bolts in the proper holes. Reinstall the manual detent spring. Torque all bolts to 8 lbs.-ft.
22. Remove the oil pump reverse booster valve from the front of the case on the driver’s side (held in with a retaining ring). It is pretty far in there so you will need long, skinny ring pliers, I didn’t and mangled the original ring, but a new one is supplied. Keep only the pressure regulator valve (the skinny one furthest in). Reinstall the pressure regulator valve, the green and yellow springs, and the new boost valve and bushing from the kit. Reinstall retaining ring.
23. Install a new filter, new pan gasket and the pan. Torque bolts to 9 lbs.-ft.
24. Fill the transmission with fresh fluid and road test. Take it easy for the first few miles to allow the air bubbles to work out and recheck the fluid level before standing on it.
I know this is long but I have some instructions that I found which makes it's seems less confusing. Please add any missing info.
1. Remove the servo and apply piston assembly from the rear of the transmission on the passenger side. It is retained by a large snap ring, which is easiest to remove by prying the cover toward the transmission and inserting a small screwdriver into the slot to disengage the snap ring. It is easiest to remove the cover if you pull on the o’ring, cut it and slide it out. Remove the cover, the 4th piston, the housing, the second piston and the servo. You will reuse all springs but add the blue spring between the servo and the 2nd piston. While you are there, note the three-digit code on the 2nd piston, you will need it to determine which spring to install in accumulator bushing.
2. Reinstall all other parts using the new o’ring (red for the housing) and the 2 band adjustment shims supplied with the kit (leave out the blue cover o’ring until after you have tested to see if the driveshaft will still turn freely). If after installation, you cannot freely turn the driveshaft with your hands (both ways), disassemble and remove 1 of the band adjustment shims. Reinstall cover using the supplied blue o’ring
3. Remove the 16 13mm bolts securing the transmission pan. Start by removing the front bolts first and working toward the back, letting the front drop down to drain the fluid slowly.
4. Remove the filter by twisting back and forth until the filter comes free of the transmission.
5. Disconnect the wires to the various (6) solenoids on the valve body.
6. Remove the manual detent spring bolt (13mm), remove the remaining valve body attaching bolts with 8mm (3) and 10mm (14) sockets (17 total). You need not remove the two passenger side bolts on the plate attached to the valve body.
7. Lower the valve body until the manual lever hangs vertically. Slide the valve body towards the passenger side of the car until it can be pulled free of the transmission. Be careful not to lose the 7 check *****.
8. Remove three 10mm bolts attaching the 1-2 accumulator body to the passenger side rear of the transmission (inside the pan).
9. Remove the spacer plate support bolts and remove the plate. Be careful not to lose the check ball.
10. Remove the forward accumulator cover from the rear of the valve body. Check whether the piston is plastic or aluminum. If it is aluminum, replace the spring in the large bore with 2 white springs (one goes inside the other), if plastic, use only the large white spring. Place the spacer (chamfer end in) on the shaft. In the small bore, remove the roll pin with a large paper clip and then insert the 3/16" (small) ball in between the inner spring and the bore plug. Replace all other components in the reverse order of removal.
11. Remove the accumulator bushing and valve and install either the red or white spring (depending on the code on the 2nd piston.
14. Remove the solenoid (by removing its retaining clip) closest to the forward accumulator. This is the 1-2 shift solenoid. Remove the 1-2 shift valve and discard. Replace with the supplied 1-2 shift valve (including green spring and gold ball) and the original inner spring.
12. There is a plug opposite of the 1-2 shift solenoid (on the front side of the valve body). Pry out the clip, remove the plug and install the supplied purple spring. Reassemble.
13. If there is a second solenoid on the front of the valve body, remove the clip, plug, spring and valve. Discard valve and replace with (in order) white and orange spring, new pulse boost valve, TC regulator valve, original plug and clip.
14. Reinstall the 7 check ***** in the locations indicated on the instructions. A little dab of Vaseline will help to hold them in place.
15. Remove the manual shift valve and inspect. If it has a flat spot in the middle reinstall without modification. Otherwise grind a 1/16 to 3/32 chamfer around the shoulder. (see instructions for picture)
16. Drill separator plate as indicated in the instructions. The Tech department gave me a hot tip: drill hole A to .106 and holes B and E to .093 for slightly better shifts.
17. Remove the piston from the 1-2 accumulator. If it is stuck, you can use a drift and drive the pin out from the back (there is a hole). Discard original 2nd accumulator springs (see step 10). Replace with orange spring (above the piston), and blue spring, seat and 0-3 spacers (below the piston). Note that the piston goes back in upside down. Use 2 spacers originally (you may adjust the shift firmness later by reducing spacers for softer shifts and increasing the number of springs for firmer shifts). [two provided great shifts for me, very firm]
18. Remove the 3-4 accumulator piston from the transmission case, install the yellow spring and reinstall the accumulator piston with the tabs facing up (into the transmission case – this is the opposite way that it was originally installed). The original spring may be discarded.
19. Drill two 1/16" holes on top of the large screen on the spacer plate and install the supplied clip to keep it from collapsing. (Note: you will need at least three hands to hold the clip in place, raise the valve body and get a couple of bolts started.
20. Assemble the separator plate and gaskets ("C" gasket to case, then plate, then "V" gasket) and install in case and bolt on the spacer plate. It is wise to start a few other bolts in their holes to make sure everything lines up properly. Be sure to properly locate the check ball before installing the plate/gasket sandwich (use Vaseline to hold it in place). Bolt on the 1-2 accumulator and torque bolts to 8 lbs.-ft. BE CAREFUL TO USE THE PROPER LENGTH BOLTS, INSTALLING THEM IN THE INCORRECT POSITION WILL LOCK THE GEARS AND CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE TO YOUR TRANSMISSION.
21. Reinstall valve body (make sure the manual lever is properly attached to the linkage) taking care to install the proper length bolts in the proper holes. Reinstall the manual detent spring. Torque all bolts to 8 lbs.-ft.
22. Remove the oil pump reverse booster valve from the front of the case on the driver’s side (held in with a retaining ring). It is pretty far in there so you will need long, skinny ring pliers, I didn’t and mangled the original ring, but a new one is supplied. Keep only the pressure regulator valve (the skinny one furthest in). Reinstall the pressure regulator valve, the green and yellow springs, and the new boost valve and bushing from the kit. Reinstall retaining ring.
23. Install a new filter, new pan gasket and the pan. Torque bolts to 9 lbs.-ft.
24. Fill the transmission with fresh fluid and road test. Take it easy for the first few miles to allow the air bubbles to work out and recheck the fluid level before standing on it.
