My 4L80E Swap with pics
06-09-2007, 02:18 PM
#1
My 4L80E Swap with pics OK, we’ll start off with the required parts, some pricing, and some pics.
The transmission:
Junkyard core from a friend, free
This transmission came out of a 1999 diesel truck. The bellhousing does not have a hole at the 12 o’clock position, and one of the other holes at the top does not line up with the block. On the passenger side the case sticks out past the block nearly an inch and was almost touching the header. The dust cover was the same way. I took care of that problem with a SawZall.
Parts:
Complete rebuild kit with Alto red clutches and kolene (sp?) steels, bushing kit, vacuum modulator kit, & check valve kit ~$400
Labor to build from a local builder $500
TCI SFI Flexplate ~ 225
4L80E Stock dipstick Tube $10
The satisfaction of throwing that piece of **** in the trash: a lot more than it cost
Lokar Flexible dipstick tube ~85
Trans mount that I bought from a sponsor. I need to call them about this, I don’t know what I’m supposed to do with this damn thing. I ended up going to a parts store and buying one that actually has a stud sticking out of it so you can bolt the trans down. ~$20
Spicer TH400 5.5” center to end slip yoke. ~65.
I needed to have it shortened about ¾”. It still seemed a little long. Since I have adjustable LCA’s I pushed the rear end back to give the yoke more room to slide into the trans when the car squats. I ended up with ¾” for the yoke to go into the trans. This is very important. If the yoke bottoms out into the transmission you will tear **** up big time.
The converter. I got this used from a board member for $450. It’s a vigilante single disc 3800 stall.
I chose to run a dust cover since the car is primarily street driven. $80
I also bought a Yank 4L80E transmission crossmember. For some reason forgot to take a picture of it. $175
I also used the speartech wiring harness. $160
In order to use the speartech wiring harness you will need to have your PCM modified. I have HP Tuners, so I went through them. Email your .hpt file to them and they will send it back ready to control a 4L80E.
Now onto the swap:
Old next to new:
Notice the ear on the driver’s side. That needs to be cut off. I used a 3” cut off wheel.
Flexplate installed:
I called a local dealer and followed the torquing procedure they gave me.
It was three passes, if I remember correctly the values were: 15 ft lbs, 37 ft lbs, 74 ft lbs.
I used my stock shifter cable. It almost lines up with two of the pan bolts. I used a bastard file to extend one of the holes and it bolts up just fine.
Two wires are required to be run from a connecter the 4L60 does not have to the PCM. You can see the red and blue wires in the small wire loom. This is a very quick thing. Basically pop the cover off the pcm and stick the new wires into two empty slots. The harness comes with the pins already on it.
New yoke on the stock length driveshaft:
Check valve installed between vacuum source and transmission. I used this part as I have future plans of running boost. You don't want to boost the transmission.
The directions say that it needs to face upwards. And the open end points to the trans, while the end with a brass insert points to the intake manifold.
I used my stock cooler lines and cut them & added rubber hose to reach the return line located towards the back of the transmission. You can see the trans temerature sending unit here also.
I clearanced the trans tunnel a little for the return line. I tried to bend it, but I could tell it was going to kink.
Another thing I forgot to take a picture of is cutting a window for the main spearteck wiring harness. This lines itself up in an area of the tunnel where there are two layers of metal separated by about ¾”. Line up where the connector is going to go and cut away. I had to do a little BFH mod to the inner layer of metal after cutting a hole.
Other than clearencing the tunnel for the wiring harness and the rear cooler line I did not do any other mods to the trans tunnel.
Yesterday was the first day the car has been back on the road. I’m still taking it easy checking for leaks and checking fluid level. So far so good. The trans has all gears and the converter locks up nicely.
One thing I noticed is that this trans is heavy. My car seemed to sit considerably lower. I tightened the springs all the way on my front strange shocks and it seems pretty good.
The transmission:
Junkyard core from a friend, free
This transmission came out of a 1999 diesel truck. The bellhousing does not have a hole at the 12 o’clock position, and one of the other holes at the top does not line up with the block. On the passenger side the case sticks out past the block nearly an inch and was almost touching the header. The dust cover was the same way. I took care of that problem with a SawZall.
Parts:
Complete rebuild kit with Alto red clutches and kolene (sp?) steels, bushing kit, vacuum modulator kit, & check valve kit ~$400
Labor to build from a local builder $500
TCI SFI Flexplate ~ 225
4L80E Stock dipstick Tube $10
The satisfaction of throwing that piece of **** in the trash: a lot more than it cost
Lokar Flexible dipstick tube ~85
Trans mount that I bought from a sponsor. I need to call them about this, I don’t know what I’m supposed to do with this damn thing. I ended up going to a parts store and buying one that actually has a stud sticking out of it so you can bolt the trans down. ~$20
Spicer TH400 5.5” center to end slip yoke. ~65.
I needed to have it shortened about ¾”. It still seemed a little long. Since I have adjustable LCA’s I pushed the rear end back to give the yoke more room to slide into the trans when the car squats. I ended up with ¾” for the yoke to go into the trans. This is very important. If the yoke bottoms out into the transmission you will tear **** up big time.
The converter. I got this used from a board member for $450. It’s a vigilante single disc 3800 stall.
I chose to run a dust cover since the car is primarily street driven. $80
I also bought a Yank 4L80E transmission crossmember. For some reason forgot to take a picture of it. $175
I also used the speartech wiring harness. $160
In order to use the speartech wiring harness you will need to have your PCM modified. I have HP Tuners, so I went through them. Email your .hpt file to them and they will send it back ready to control a 4L80E.
Now onto the swap:
Old next to new:
Notice the ear on the driver’s side. That needs to be cut off. I used a 3” cut off wheel.
Flexplate installed:
I called a local dealer and followed the torquing procedure they gave me.
It was three passes, if I remember correctly the values were: 15 ft lbs, 37 ft lbs, 74 ft lbs.
I used my stock shifter cable. It almost lines up with two of the pan bolts. I used a bastard file to extend one of the holes and it bolts up just fine.
Two wires are required to be run from a connecter the 4L60 does not have to the PCM. You can see the red and blue wires in the small wire loom. This is a very quick thing. Basically pop the cover off the pcm and stick the new wires into two empty slots. The harness comes with the pins already on it.
New yoke on the stock length driveshaft:
Check valve installed between vacuum source and transmission. I used this part as I have future plans of running boost. You don't want to boost the transmission.
The directions say that it needs to face upwards. And the open end points to the trans, while the end with a brass insert points to the intake manifold.
I used my stock cooler lines and cut them & added rubber hose to reach the return line located towards the back of the transmission. You can see the trans temerature sending unit here also.
I clearanced the trans tunnel a little for the return line. I tried to bend it, but I could tell it was going to kink.
Another thing I forgot to take a picture of is cutting a window for the main spearteck wiring harness. This lines itself up in an area of the tunnel where there are two layers of metal separated by about ¾”. Line up where the connector is going to go and cut away. I had to do a little BFH mod to the inner layer of metal after cutting a hole.
Other than clearencing the tunnel for the wiring harness and the rear cooler line I did not do any other mods to the trans tunnel.
Yesterday was the first day the car has been back on the road. I’m still taking it easy checking for leaks and checking fluid level. So far so good. The trans has all gears and the converter locks up nicely.
One thing I noticed is that this trans is heavy. My car seemed to sit considerably lower. I tightened the springs all the way on my front strange shocks and it seems pretty good.
Last edited by calongo_SS; 06-09-2007 at 02:28 PM.
06-10-2007, 09:50 PM
#4
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curious where you got these parts listed below. im rounding up parts to do the swap.
"Complete rebuild kit with Alto red clutches and kolene (sp?) steels, bushing kit, vacuum modulator kit, & check valve kit ~$400"
"slip yoke. ~65"
"dust cover $80"
"Complete rebuild kit with Alto red clutches and kolene (sp?) steels, bushing kit, vacuum modulator kit, & check valve kit ~$400"
"slip yoke. ~65"
"dust cover $80"
06-10-2007, 09:54 PM
#5
I got all the internal trans parts from a local trans parts warehouse, if you look in the yellow pages I'm sure you have one local. The guy I talked to was pretty knowledgeable and helped me out.
I got the dust cover from http://www.speed-eng.com/store/
I got the yoke from an online store who is not a sponsor. PM me for details.
I got the dust cover from http://www.speed-eng.com/store/
I got the yoke from an online store who is not a sponsor. PM me for details.
