which stall converter? experienced opinions only
#1
which stall converter? experienced opinions only
I pretty much KNOW that the next step in making my 99 Camaro SS any faster, with the mods I have already done, is adding a stall converter. Now, I want my car to run faster then 13.47. I just want to be ANYWHERE in the 12's. So i decided that i will probably get a stall converter or just try to be happy with what I already have. The only problem is, is that I don't want to break my rear end or have to replace the transmission soon after. So i decided not to get a big stall like 3,500. I just want something like 2,500 or so. I could go out and get that much stall for around $250 but someone tells me it wouldn't make much difference cause that is not where my engines powerband is. He says I need atleast 3,000. So i basically just want to know if a 2,500 RPM stall converter will put my car into the 12's, and will a stall converter costing $250 even stall to 2,500 RMP's?
Last edited by slowjoe99; 07-02-2007 at 12:29 AM.
#2
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I forget his name on here but he went from a stock baseline of 8.6@83 1/8,13.1 1/4 to a 7.7@86 1/8 just from adding a headers and a yank 4200 stall with no tune at all so I think you should with either a yank 4000 or at least a 3600 stall and dont forget the always important tranny cooler and tune it and will be a great DD and whoop some *** in the process!
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if your daily driving it I wouldnt choose anything over 3800. if you add a stall, then yes and aftermarket trans cooler would help keep temps down.
I would recamend for a stock application without a heads/cam package a 3200-3500 for street use. it gets you aat the base of your power RPM's. you can stall a stcok verter up to 2200 without breaking the tires loose. a 2500 convetrer wouldnt really make a big difference...maybe a tenth here or there.
you would require a 3200-3500 range. I would recamend a 3500 personally.....all depends what you want to do.......... you could find a used converter for that price range as well. I have a fuddle, yank makes very good coverters. vigilante's are a little harsh...but very effective. the rear will last......just dont add full out slicks. a 255 drag radial will do. some v6 rear springs help on launch as well. you could add and airbag to the RR spring...drop some more time off. good luck
I would recamend for a stock application without a heads/cam package a 3200-3500 for street use. it gets you aat the base of your power RPM's. you can stall a stcok verter up to 2200 without breaking the tires loose. a 2500 convetrer wouldnt really make a big difference...maybe a tenth here or there.
you would require a 3200-3500 range. I would recamend a 3500 personally.....all depends what you want to do.......... you could find a used converter for that price range as well. I have a fuddle, yank makes very good coverters. vigilante's are a little harsh...but very effective. the rear will last......just dont add full out slicks. a 255 drag radial will do. some v6 rear springs help on launch as well. you could add and airbag to the RR spring...drop some more time off. good luck
#4
Vigalante 3200+ a good tranny cooler. If your gonna run drag radials start out with some nitto 555rs. They would rather spin than hook and aren't quite as bad on a rearend like a set of MTs would be.
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DO NOT buy a generic converter TRUST ME! I had a 97 trans am and I bought a generic 2500 converter and it did NOTHING but slip. It blows... MY buddy just put a 2600 precision industries converter on his 72 vette and it feels WAAAAAAAAAY faster now. I was so shocked to feel what a difference a REAL converter and a LEGIT brand can do. Moral of the story, go with a big name brand like Yank or Vig (precision industries), because if you dont, I garauntee it wont "hit" like it should in 1st. Also, I'd also say 3200 would be a good DD converter.
#6
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Originally Posted by slowjoe99
I just want to be ANYWHERE in the 12's. So i decided that i will probably get a stall converter or just try to be happy with what I already have.
Originally Posted by slowjoe99
The only problem is, is that I don't want to break my rear end or have to replace the transmission soon after.
Originally Posted by slowjoe99
So i decided not to get a big stall like 3,500. I just want something like 2,500 or so. I could go out and get that much stall for around $250 but someone tells me it wouldn't make much difference cause that is not where my engines powerband is. He says I need atleast 3,000. So i basically just want to know if a 2,500 RPM stall converter will put my car into the 12's, and will a stall converter costing $250 even stall to 2,500 RMP's?
I have a friend with a TCI 3000 and he wishes he had gotten the 3500 after driving my car. Don't make that mistake or even worse. Get a 3400-3800 stall right off the bat or you'll just be wishing you went bigger.
You also need to understand that most people can not do a converter swap themselves since it requires removing the entire transmission. I paid $400 for my converter, $60 for the transmission cooler, $40 for PCM tuning and $315 for all the labor. So a converter swap ended up costing me $815 when it was all said and done.
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2500 stall is a waste. seriously get at least a 3200 or don't bother at all imo. My car went from 13.30's to 12.70's (slicks required) adding a 3600 stall and FLT trans while still on 2.73 gears! I also drive my car daily.. true daily drive driven in rain snow everything 40 miles a day 6 days a week. Its no problem at all driving it.
On an A4 car with bolt ons you can launch it hard and the rear won't break (as long as the car doesn't wheel hop!). Its the M6 cars that are hard on the rearends. Of course if you go power adder, or spray or heads cam and put down some big power numbers obviously the rearend will be a problem.
On an A4 car with bolt ons you can launch it hard and the rear won't break (as long as the car doesn't wheel hop!). Its the M6 cars that are hard on the rearends. Of course if you go power adder, or spray or heads cam and put down some big power numbers obviously the rearend will be a problem.
Last edited by sixvi6-camaro; 07-11-2007 at 11:55 PM.
#10
Lot's of good advice here!.
If you were to consider a converter with a low stall say 2500 I would recommend having the stock converter restalled... they can be taken up to 2500 rpm reliably.
But thaty is not going to get you where you want to be. With the combination you have the info you got from your frined is correct... a 3000 rpm stall converter is about the lowest you would want... and it is not going to get the job done at the track, but would give good driveability.
That being said, I would recommend getting a converter that stalls in the 3500 range... it will do the job and not beat you up on mileage as well. Get a good cooler and have fun!
Hope that helps.
g
g
If you were to consider a converter with a low stall say 2500 I would recommend having the stock converter restalled... they can be taken up to 2500 rpm reliably.
But thaty is not going to get you where you want to be. With the combination you have the info you got from your frined is correct... a 3000 rpm stall converter is about the lowest you would want... and it is not going to get the job done at the track, but would give good driveability.
That being said, I would recommend getting a converter that stalls in the 3500 range... it will do the job and not beat you up on mileage as well. Get a good cooler and have fun!
Hope that helps.
g
g
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if you want a low stall speed then go with a Vigilante 2800 - best converter on the market. Speedinc has the best prices on them, AND they do free shipping.
www.ls1speed.com
www.ls1speed.com
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If he's already running 13.4 how much do you guys think a 3000 stall would drop his ET's?? would it be right around 13.0X assuming he can hook on drag radials? or is it only gonna drop him a tenth or 2?
#13
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Originally Posted by Travis99LS1
If he's already running 13.4 how much do you guys think a 3000 stall would drop his ET's?? would it be right around 13.0X assuming he can hook on drag radials? or is it only gonna drop him a tenth or 2?
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I was leary about goin with the Yank SS3600 but let me tell you...you will not be dissapointed!!! I drive my car everyday to work, bars, shopping and it is awesome. I went from 12.88 to 12.38 with the only addition being the Yank and Nitto's! And i'm not even tuned yet. Very tight around town but when you get on it..make sure you got some room in front of you, cause the acceleration is like night and day!!
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When I first got a TC I got a yank ST3500, with a lid and Nittos I was running 12.4-5 untuned. That is definatly the first thing an auto should get. Pay the money the first time so you won't have to do it over and over again.