newbe on stock transmission
07-12-2007, 08:19 AM
#1
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newbe on stock transmission hey guys i have a 2000 model T/A A4 and i would like to know how many rwhp my stock A4 can handle.
you can see my mods in Sig and I'm going to install a 224/232 cam shaft with 114 LSA also i'll porting my heads with daimond pistons 3.950 + 150 shots of Nitrous.
will the stock tranny can handle this amount of power or i should do something with it ?
what do you advice ?
Thanks in advance
you can see my mods in Sig and I'm going to install a 224/232 cam shaft with 114 LSA also i'll porting my heads with daimond pistons 3.950 + 150 shots of Nitrous.
will the stock tranny can handle this amount of power or i should do something with it ?
what do you advice ?
Thanks in advance
07-12-2007, 08:51 AM
#2
This varies from person to person , One guy makes 500 RWHP and amazingliy the trans lives for quite sometime another guy cant get to 4 till it dies. Personally if I was going to do any substaintial buildup I would place the trans on the list of things to do very early on.
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07-13-2007, 11:25 AM
#6
Well all you could really do short of building your trans would be to add a shift kit . But that would not get you in that HP range , Several internal peices need to be changed and upgraded in order to reliably handle that level of power.The people who specialize in these us and others have spent years figuring outwhat works and does not and ts not as simple as putting parts in either. I dont know how to explain it better other than to say that your best bet overall if to get a built trans from us or one of the other sponsors here before you start doing any additional build up. Either way after those mods you will likley be talking to one of us or someone. The trans in its stock form is just not up to that task, In truth its just up to the task behind the stock engine thus the reason for things like torque management etc to protect it from the power of the stock powerhouse.
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07-13-2007, 10:15 PM
#7
Originally Posted by performabuilt
Well all you could really do short of building your trans would be to add a shift kit . But that would not get you in that HP range , Several internal peices need to be changed and upgraded in order to reliably handle that level of power.The people who specialize in these us and others have spent years figuring outwhat works and does not and ts not as simple as putting parts in either. I dont know how to explain it better other than to say that your best bet overall if to get a built trans from us or one of the other sponsors here before you start doing any additional build up. Either way after those mods you will likley be talking to one of us or someone. The trans in its stock form is just not up to that task, In truth its just up to the task behind the stock engine thus the reason for things like torque management etc to protect it from the power of the stock powerhouse.
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07-14-2007, 03:52 AM
#10
Buy a built one, no offense but If you don't know what parts to get, etc. I think the rebuild is over your head for yourself. I know I would never think about doing it myself, but thats just me. Especially for the price, they're cheaper than rear ends! I am in this same predicament as we speak, and I am just going to buy a built one. Where and when is the only question, ok not only. 60-e and 80-e is my biggest question, and why I have to figure out yet. Unless somebody can help US with that!
07-14-2007, 08:27 AM
#11
A 4L60E can be built to reliably handle well over 600HP. And that is conservative. There are cars out there running over 800hp! But typically anything over 600-650 rwhp would be upgraded to a 4L80E. Usually the Vette guys who have no other choice making big power go for the uber-built 60's. That and the truck guys need a heavily modified unit as they are packing over 4k#.
By heavily modified I mean they have replaced the input and output shafts with billet pieces, have installed cryogenically treated sprags and other internals.
For an F body up to say 650hp at the wheels a well built unit would include upgraded hydraulics throughout, a Trans Go HD-2 Reprogramming kit, possibly a billet servo, a performance band and typical racing transmission oiling modifications. Check out several Performance Transmission websites and you'll get an idea of what it takes to get one of these to hang over 500rwhp. But keep in mind it takes a highly skilled individual with a very extensive and specialized tool assortment to successfully rebuild any automatic transmission, let alone a racing unit. It is not simply a matter of buying and installing parts.
On our website there is a photo of a '63 Chevy II. That car has a 408cid LS2, it put down right at 600 FWHP. The owner sprays a 150 shot of N2O on it. It has our Level 2 unit that we changed to a full Manual Shift because the owner is an old bracket racer from way back and just had to manually shift it! It dead hooks on 9" slicks and runs 6.5x's 1/8. It weighs about 3200#. The tranny is living just fine. I mention this car because it is a good example of how a well built 4L60E can take a significant load and hold up in extreme conditions.
That being said, a 4L80E can be an expensive option compared to the 4L60E. I would recommend it for the client who has taken his car over 750 hp and is at the track alot. Meaning, the likelyhood of him dead hooking on the street is very slim and that is not going to stress the hard parts like the track would. And a 4L80E requires significant modifications to the car... electronics to control it, a crossmember, a converter, etc....
Hope that helps you guys with your decisions.
g
By heavily modified I mean they have replaced the input and output shafts with billet pieces, have installed cryogenically treated sprags and other internals.
For an F body up to say 650hp at the wheels a well built unit would include upgraded hydraulics throughout, a Trans Go HD-2 Reprogramming kit, possibly a billet servo, a performance band and typical racing transmission oiling modifications. Check out several Performance Transmission websites and you'll get an idea of what it takes to get one of these to hang over 500rwhp. But keep in mind it takes a highly skilled individual with a very extensive and specialized tool assortment to successfully rebuild any automatic transmission, let alone a racing unit. It is not simply a matter of buying and installing parts.
On our website there is a photo of a '63 Chevy II. That car has a 408cid LS2, it put down right at 600 FWHP. The owner sprays a 150 shot of N2O on it. It has our Level 2 unit that we changed to a full Manual Shift because the owner is an old bracket racer from way back and just had to manually shift it! It dead hooks on 9" slicks and runs 6.5x's 1/8. It weighs about 3200#. The tranny is living just fine. I mention this car because it is a good example of how a well built 4L60E can take a significant load and hold up in extreme conditions.
That being said, a 4L80E can be an expensive option compared to the 4L60E. I would recommend it for the client who has taken his car over 750 hp and is at the track alot. Meaning, the likelyhood of him dead hooking on the street is very slim and that is not going to stress the hard parts like the track would. And a 4L80E requires significant modifications to the car... electronics to control it, a crossmember, a converter, etc....
Hope that helps you guys with your decisions.
g
07-14-2007, 12:34 PM
#12
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thanks guys Appreciate what u have done for me ill think of the the new tranny (60-e) .
by the way guys i live kuwait so the normal temp is 120 F in the shade so can the 60-e tranny handle it AND BE A DAILY USE CAR ?
can u help me to pick which brand of 60-e tranny i should probably buy ?
thanx guys much
by the way guys i live kuwait so the normal temp is 120 F in the shade so can the 60-e tranny handle it AND BE A DAILY USE CAR ?
can u help me to pick which brand of 60-e tranny i should probably buy ?
thanx guys much
