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650rwhp, 4l60e or 4l80e?

Old 08-02-2007, 08:09 PM
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Default 650rwhp, 4l60e or 4l80e?

My car makes 650rwhp-608rwt by 6000 rpm. I run 315/35/17 M/T drag radials on 11" wide rims which bite extremely well. Here are the problems I'm experiencing,

1- If I'm in 1st say about 3000 rpm's and stab the throttle the clutches break loose and then they grab back violently after I let off.
2- At the strip on the 1-2 shift it slips for a brief second and then grabs
3- Again at the strip the 2-3 shift won't occur unless I let off the gas some and wait for the shift. It will bounce off the rev limiter at 6800 rpm's even though I've dropped the shift command down to 5500.

It would be a lot easier to stay with a 4l60e if there was one out there that would hold up. Does anyone warranty one at this power level? Or does anyone give credit towards a 4l80e if the 60 should prove unable to do the job? I've had the trans. out so many times I can't count them. It has pretty much the best stuff in it. The car is heavy being a full weight convertible + the supercharger stuff, and the tires hook really well which doesn't help the trans. any. Any thoughts?
Old 08-02-2007, 08:17 PM
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4L80E is the way to go, I have one n my car and I love it.
Old 08-02-2007, 08:18 PM
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A 4L80E will prove to be more durable in the long run. But a 4L60E can take it. 700-725 hp is not unobtainable for a 60.

PM sent.

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Old 08-03-2007, 01:54 AM
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I'd also like more light to shine here. I am currently searching for a company that would be able to be 100% confidant on a 4l60-E that can hold atleast 650-700rwhp all day long. I have a project coming this winter that will meet this level easily. I would consider the 80-e but more money and more hastle for the swap. Don't get me wrong I want to do it right, and hopefully only once. Not hijacking here but am going to follow this thread as well. Seems like most company's say they can build this but than blows up in less than a month and blames it on the driver. Can't vouch for either but don't want to find out the hard way. I have alot of time to make my decision so research, research, and more research. So far I have got FLT, RPM and Rossler for some strong reccommendations. Anybody else out there???????? Thanks for the help!
Old 08-03-2007, 08:50 AM
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Give me a call and we can discuss some options.

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Old 08-03-2007, 11:05 AM
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So what types of prices are people paying for the 4l80e. I am either going Th400 or 4l80e.
Old 08-03-2007, 11:09 AM
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transmisson's physicans in tampa can build you one hell of a 4l60e. Mine holds up and im throwin around 520rwhp at it and 7k shift points all day long.
Old 08-03-2007, 01:17 PM
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We build racing 4L80E's. If you would like give me a call and we can explore options.
Obviously though... if there is a shop in your neighborhood it might be more convenient to use them. Either way.... give me a call and I can help out.

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Old 08-03-2007, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ratchthed
We build racing 4L80E's. If you would like give me a call and we can explore options.
Obviously though... if there is a shop in your neighborhood it might be more convenient to use them. Either way.... give me a call and I can help out.

g

good choice as well.
Old 08-03-2007, 02:57 PM
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My built 4l60e which had or has some of the best parts you could get at the time starting banging the limiter on the 2-3 shift with a bigger shot I set the shiftpoints as low as 4500rpm and no luck im planning on getting a junkyard 4l80e and if it breaks ill get that rebuilt and have a reliable tranny when built. I race the car alot at the track and want to have a tranny that when built can take a ton of abuse. I should of went 4l80e from the beginning but I took the easier way of just getting the 4l60e built and throwing it back in. Also back then I was planning on maybe running the car 10 passes a year tops.
Old 08-03-2007, 03:15 PM
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Ya I am starting to lean towards the 80, the more people I talk to it seems like the best route in the long run. The built 60 seems scetchy? Some have good luck and some don't, for a bit more you can get an 80. Its a lil heavier but will get the job done on the track and the street Proven , you don't here negative things about the 80, maybe the swap and the weight but I'd take that anyday over rebuilding it all the time. Not to mention not knowing when you will have to get towed/haul it home
Old 08-03-2007, 08:35 PM
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Default rossler tranny 4l60e

Originally Posted by 2001WS6Vert
My car makes 650rwhp-608rwt by 6000 rpm. I run 315/35/17 M/T drag radials on 11" wide rims which bite extremely well. Here are the problems I'm experiencing,

1- If I'm in 1st say about 3000 rpm's and stab the throttle the clutches break loose and then they grab back violently after I let off.
2- At the strip on the 1-2 shift it slips for a brief second and then grabs
3- Again at the strip the 2-3 shift won't occur unless I let off the gas some and wait for the shift. It will bounce off the rev limiter at 6800 rpm's even though I've dropped the shift command down to 5500.

It would be a lot easier to stay with a 4l60e if there was one out there that would hold up. Does anyone warranty one at this power level? Or does anyone give credit towards a 4l80e if the 60 should prove unable to do the job? I've had the trans. out so many times I can't count them. It has pretty much the best stuff in it. The car is heavy being a full weight convertible + the supercharger stuff, and the tires hook really well which doesn't help the trans. any. Any thoughts?

do a search for rossler transmissions, the only overdrive tranny he messes with is 4l60 &4l80's... they are really great transmissions, alot of the clutches he uses is made in house... he also offers a vaccum modulator that allows it to shift nice and firm under full throttle but retain the cadillac like driving... He makes 3 different stages in the tranny's, he also offer's his transbrake for these tranny's, which is a definate plus! do a search for them and give them a call and ask for Carl...
Old 08-04-2007, 08:37 AM
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There are usually 2 defining issues we see when clients come to us with 4L60E's that have a hard time with the 2/3 shift at high rpm's/WOT with power adders.

The 1st is excessive clearance in the 3/4 clutch pack... it was not set up properly during assembly. Simply put it is too loose.

The other issue is the 2/3 shift hydraulics are not massaged in such a manner as to shorten the shift time. We spent the most time in our R&D program on this specific issue. Many, many countless long nights at the track logging passes and studying the results proved to be the ticket for us.

It is when it is in the top of 2nd and not hitting 3rd that the most damage is done in my opinion, that is with power adder combos.


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