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Shifting to Neutral to help braking?

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Old 08-07-2007, 05:13 PM
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Default Shifting to Neutral to help braking?

Whenever I begin to brake (coming to a complete stop) it is always difficult because the transmission is still trying to keep the RPM's high so it feels like I'm braking and accelerating a bit at the same time. So, this sucks for trying to come to a stop quickly. Like a manual transmission (holding the clutch in, disengaging the tranny and just braking to stop the car), is it ok to put the 4L60E in Neutral a lot to help braking? I tried it a few times and it feels better. Since the tranny is disengaged the car will just stop instead of trying to creep forward a bit. I bet this has really worn my brakes! But I noticed that when I throw it in Neutral sometimes the gas gauge drops a lot. Not that I lose all that gas but why does that happen? Then it will slowly crawl back up to where it was.

So, I'd assume it's harmless to be braking like this but the gauge moving around worried me, so I thought I'd ask!
Old 08-07-2007, 05:19 PM
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sounds to me that the idle is to high or the converter is not enough
Old 08-07-2007, 05:29 PM
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I don't think I understand your issue... understand what I read but not sure what is happening.

It sounds as if the idle speed is up, but your sig shows a 3500 rpm stall converter. It should not want to push out at astops even of the idle were up a few hundered rpm's.

What rpm's does your engine idle at?

Your condition does not sound normal at all to me... the trasnmssion does not keep the engine rpm's up unless you are manually downshifting way early manually. Even then the PCM will only allow it to downshift at the programmed vehicle speed.

More info please.

g
Old 08-07-2007, 05:42 PM
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I agree this does not sound like a transmission issue, But rather possibly a engine running issue or one possibility would be a converter clutch not unlocking till late perhaps. But as Gilbert said a trans cannot hold up your RPMs with the noted exception of namually downshifting , In fact provided the idle is down the input sprag acts more like the petals on a ten speed and will freewheel in the OD position at 0 throttle.

Now on the separate issue of the fuel guage remember the gas in the tank will slosh around and make the guage move during a stop thats probably normal .
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Old 08-07-2007, 05:42 PM
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car idles a hair below 1000.

when i begin to brake hard the car will drop to about 1200 rpm and stay there while i'm still braking (causing the car to still want to go forward) until i come to a complete stop. i end up having to brake much harder to stop. then it will drop back to normal idle. what causes that? why can't the car just brake normally, like any other auto? is this what i get for having a a stall? or does that not having anything to do with it?

this doesn't happen during normal braking, just when i'm coming to a complete stop or if i'm cruising around a parking lot or somewhere where i'm not going fast. this problem is making my car feel extremely heavy during braking, like it doesn't want to stop sometimes. i'm just afraid i'm going to get in to an accident or something because of it. my tranny still shifts fine and motor is fine. it's just annoying!
Old 08-07-2007, 06:11 PM
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sounds to me you need some more tuning
Old 08-07-2007, 06:43 PM
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More tuning... sounds like idle air is not correct, you need someone who really knows how to tune for idle/throttle follower/cracker.
Old 08-07-2007, 07:20 PM
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what throttle body are you running on the car
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:20 PM
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What was the latest change to the vehicle... what was done before this started happening?

Check your floor mat to make sure it is not interfering with your accelerator pedal linkage. Then have a qualified tuner look at your PCM.

g
Old 08-07-2007, 07:50 PM
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using a stock ported throttle body. be back in a bit with more info.
Old 08-07-2007, 07:51 PM
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Check if the throttle blade is sticking or the return spring is weak.
Old 08-07-2007, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by joecar
Check if the throttle blade is sticking or the return spring is weak.
may be it. i noticed my throttle screw was screwed in a little deep. i think that was done to help during the tuning and wasn't adjusted properly. i will mess with it tomorrow. how can adjusting that screw effect the tune?

after the car was tuned i got a new lid setup that allowed much more airflow over the slp sized lids. could that have effected the tune?
Old 08-07-2007, 11:11 PM
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If you used to drive a manual car, it may just feel that way because of what you're used to. Everytime I drive an auto, it aggrivates me because it keeps trying to pull while I'm trying to stop. Makes me wanna put it in neutral, but then I realize it's just cuz I'm used to my M6.
Old 08-07-2007, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jmdale1984
If you used to drive a manual car, it may just feel that way because of what you're used to. Everytime I drive an auto, it aggrivates me because it keeps trying to pull while I'm trying to stop. Makes me wanna put it in neutral, but then I realize it's just cuz I'm used to my M6.
exactly what i mean. is it just me or do the stock brakes suck the more power you make? need to start saving for some 6 piston calipers.
Old 08-07-2007, 11:35 PM
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Ehh... looks like you can outrun all the 5 0 cruisers... just stop stopping. There, problem solved.




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