Flywheel to Flexplate Question
11-07-2007, 11:21 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Flywheel to Flexplate Question I have an 01 LS1 out of a Trans Am. It came with a flywheel and clutch assembly. I will be using a 4L60E trans so I'm installing a flexplate.
My questions are:
Do I have to remove the pilot bearing in the end of the crank?
There is a lip on the end of the crank to locate the flexplate, and it extends beyond the face of the flexplate when it is bolted to the crank. I have heard people needing spacers. Is there a spacer required between the crank flange and the flexplate? This is a new stock flexplate that came off a crate engine.
Are the mounting bolts the same for mounting a flywheel or flexplate?
My questions are:
Do I have to remove the pilot bearing in the end of the crank?
There is a lip on the end of the crank to locate the flexplate, and it extends beyond the face of the flexplate when it is bolted to the crank. I have heard people needing spacers. Is there a spacer required between the crank flange and the flexplate? This is a new stock flexplate that came off a crate engine.
Are the mounting bolts the same for mounting a flywheel or flexplate?
11-08-2007, 10:57 AM
#2
Yes you need to remove the pilot bearing. It can interfere with the converter if it is left in place.
Should not need a spacer if all pieces are factory replacements.
No! The flexplate and flywheel mounting bolts are very different! Do not use flywheel bolts on a flexplate, they are shouldered bolts and are longer. It will appear to bolt up properly but will actually be loose!
Hope that helps. I enjoy old school conversions, we handle many of those here at the shop!
g
Should not need a spacer if all pieces are factory replacements.
No! The flexplate and flywheel mounting bolts are very different! Do not use flywheel bolts on a flexplate, they are shouldered bolts and are longer. It will appear to bolt up properly but will actually be loose!
Hope that helps. I enjoy old school conversions, we handle many of those here at the shop!
g
11-08-2007, 02:34 PM
#3
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Thanks for the reply.
I didn't think I would have to remove the pilot bearing because it looked to be in deeper than the convertor would go, but I will take it out.
I didn't think I would have to remove the pilot bearing because it looked to be in deeper than the convertor would go, but I will take it out.
11-08-2007, 03:59 PM
#4
Some guys will drive the bushing into the crank until it stops, I don't recommend doing that. The converter pilot hub is deep on the LS series powerlants as compared to the traditional 3 speeds.
g
g
11-13-2007, 11:02 PM
#6
Put some gease in it then find and air chuck with a rubber gromet and apply air to the center ussually they will come out but bear in mind no matter how you do it they must come out even wont come out **** eyed. If that fails the advice bellow is good
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11-13-2007, 11:02 PM
#7
Well, I personally use a very, very sharp chisel in my air hammer that I strategically place into the bushing and then proceed to split it into pieces very gently. But I have owned this airtool since 1987 and have complete control with it. Don't use one yourself if you cannot control it precisely.
There are slide hammers and pullers that are designed specifically for this purpose.
It is an interference fit, so it won't give up easily!
g
There are slide hammers and pullers that are designed specifically for this purpose.
It is an interference fit, so it won't give up easily!
g
