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A4 trans pros I need your help

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Old 11-24-2007, 05:47 PM
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Default A4 trans pros I need your help

We are having a wierd problem with the transmission shifting in our 03 Silverado. I'll start by telling you a little bit about it. It has 60000 miles (completely stock) on it when the 3-4 clutches took a dump on us so we rebuilt it. It just quit working all at once with no signs of problems. So we get it back together and try it out and find a problem. With it in drive it doesn't do anything just like it was in netural but pull it down to 1st and manually shift it and it works fine. It does the samething in 2nd. Everytime you have to stop and take off again you have to manually pull it in to 1st and Manually shift it for it to work. It doesn't slip or anything it just doesn't want to shift right. Do any of you have any ideas what might cause this? We've rebuilt plenty of 4L60e's that all worked good so assembly isn't the problem. MAybe the pressure control valve?
Old 11-24-2007, 06:07 PM
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I would say something with the input sprag or the low roller was assembled incorrectly you will need to go back into the unit . I can think of no other possiblility that would cause the no movement symptom you are describing. with movement in the manual low gears.
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Old 11-24-2007, 07:03 PM
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When you manually shift it do you get 3rd and 4th gear? I would have to suspect that if it has manual low it could not be a low roller. Need some more info. Vince
Old 11-24-2007, 07:55 PM
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All 4 gears work fine as long as you shift it manually 1-2 2-3 3-4. There is no slipping or anything. Example: Start the truck and shift from park to D, it is just like it is in netural. but if you pull it all the way down to 1 then shift to 2 then 3 then D it works fine. When you stop you have to pull it back down to 1 again and shift it manually 1-2 2-3 3-4. It seems to me like it is an electrical promlem?? Like I said, when it is shifted manually all 4 gears work fine with no slipping or anything. Could this be a shift selenoid or something?
Old 11-24-2007, 08:04 PM
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Any codes?
Old 11-24-2007, 08:10 PM
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I do not see how a shift solenoid would make it not move it could make it be in a higer gear, Now since it will move normally after you place it in first and up shift manually I would say the low roller clutch here is why, If the low roller was not holdin you could get no movement in the uppser gears from a stop because 1st gear is the low roller clutch and the forward clutch, So no low roller no move. Now the reason you can get it to move from manual low is because the low/reverse clutch comes on and serve the same purpose holding the low planet still and once you move to a higher gear the low roller is no longer used so you can move and all gears will be normal untill you stop and go to first again then it would be nessesary to pull the gear selector back downto move again.Now one exception and a test would be to travel to a low speed and shift up to D and then nail it WOT and if the speeds low enough to do and auto downshift to first in D rather than first you should get a free rev possibly followed by limp mode.
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Old 11-24-2007, 08:25 PM
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Thanks for all the help and the quick responses.
Haven't checked for any codes. We finished up at dark and it has been a hard rain all day. All we did was drive it down the road and back. Keep an eye on this thread as we'll check things out tomorrow and I'll let you guys know exactly whats going on. Again, thanks guys
Old 11-24-2007, 09:21 PM
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sounds like to me the low roller is in backwards
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
When you manually shift it do you get 3rd and 4th gear? I would have to suspect that if it has manual low it could not be a low roller. Need some more info. Vince
vince did you have a brainfart today?
when in manual low the low reverse clutches come on thus doing the job of the low roller.
so my guess is if it has manual low but no drive range low then the low roller is either broken or more than likley in backwards
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:33 PM
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I do not have a apply chart in front of me right now, so keep that in mind. I'm doing this from memory. So lets say the low roller is just fine. This could be an issue with the forward clutch as well. The low clutch in a 4l60e is on in low, reverse and in park. If the forward clutch was not applied in the OD or D range it to would keep the vehicle from moving forward. Now when you go to manual low the over run clutch would come on to help or aid the forward clutch. While in manual low the low/reverse clutch comes on as well. In manual second the over run clutch is on as well along with the band. In manual third the 3-4 clutch comes with the over run clutch still applied, all internal components turn 1 to 1. In 4th or OD range the over run clutch comes off, the 3-4 stays applied and the band comes on making 4th gear. Now when you come to a stop if the forward clutch is not applied this to would give you a neutral condition. Might be some thing else to consider. Vince
Old 11-24-2007, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by performabuilt2
vince did you have a brainfart today?
when in manual low the low reverse clutches come on thus doing the job of the low roller.
so my guess is if it has manual low but no drive range low then the low roller is either broken or more than likley in backwards
LOL. Yes I think so. It happens. I have never installed one backwards but I guess it is possible. I understand Franks theory above but a forward clutch could be a problem here as well. I guess we will see what the user here finds. Vince
Old 11-24-2007, 09:45 PM
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sounds good but dont think the little 2 clutches in the ovverun would hold he says there is no slipping i think you would get a flare when you gas it with only 2 clutches running the forward. However what you wrote makes sense. I had one like this though that i installed the low roller in the wrong way trying to get one done at 3am one time and it did what he is explaining.
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:53 PM
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Like I said I have never installed it backwards. The race turns clockwise and well the roller element to me only fits one way. But I guess some guy's have figured out how to install it backwards as you said that you have done it. So I guess it can be done. We will have to see what happens here. Vince
Old 11-24-2007, 09:58 PM
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yeah i was really surprised that i did it also it will freewheel in both directions when its backward however i could have sworn the night i put it in that it locked counterclockwise bu again thats what you get for trying to do something at 3am when i took it back apart it was freewheeling in both directions reversed it reassembled the thing worked perfect
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Old 11-24-2007, 10:04 PM
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and building don't mix! BTW holy run on sentence.
Old 11-24-2007, 10:09 PM
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yeah I slept through english class but was awake in shop.
I was actually doing 2 that night at the same time a c-6 and a 60e the c-6 came out good
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Old 11-25-2007, 07:55 AM
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I,ve seen one installed backwards. A buddy asked me to double check his handy work and when I grabbed the fwd sprag assy and spun it (habit) it confused me. I felt like I was standing on the wrong side of the golf ball. (damn lefties) He said he fought with it for a while to get it that way. I,ve never tried it before but I guess it can be done.

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Old 11-26-2007, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
I do not see how a shift solenoid would make it not move it could make it be in a higer gear, Now since it will move normally after you place it in first and up shift manually I would say the low roller clutch here is why, If the low roller was not holdin you could get no movement in the uppser gears from a stop because 1st gear is the low roller clutch and the forward clutch, So no low roller no move. Now the reason you can get it to move from manual low is because the low/reverse clutch comes on and serve the same purpose holding the low planet still and once you move to a higher gear the low roller is no longer used so you can move and all gears will be normal untill you stop and go to first again then it would be nessesary to pull the gear selector back downto move again.Now one exception and a test would be to travel to a low speed and shift up to D and then nail it WOT and if the speeds low enough to do and auto downshift to first in D rather than first you should get a free rev possibly followed by limp mode.
Bingo! We have a winner!
You guys are awsome! We tore it down today and it turnsout we had the low roller assembled wrong. We got that lined out and put her back together and she worked like a champ. Thank you guys very much for this as we'd have never even noticed it was together wrong and would have been chasing grimlens forever on this deal. I thought we knew what we were doing on these 4L60's. But I do know where we'll come for tranny parts and help from now on! And with 3 LS race cars, 3 LS street cars and 4 LS trucks we'll need it! You guys rock.

BTW, we have a 00 Z28 that keeps killing 3-4 clutches what can we change to get these to hold up? We have tried all the different clutches and none of them will hold up more the 2-3 trips to the track. This car runs mid 11's with a TCI SSF 3600. We also have this same setup in our 98 TA (Yank PT4000) runs the same and it has lasted almost 2 years. And it goes to the track atleast 3 times a month. (yea we have a bunch of LS cars/trucks and they all get raced)
Old 11-27-2007, 10:49 AM
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I am glad you found the problem and I was able to help. On the 3-4 clutch failures thats a bit more complicated. If your having repeated failures there in that short a time and if its in multiple units . I would check over line presure and whatever shift kit your using.But if it just one unit and the others are set up the same I would carefully look at the input drum and the pump and stator .
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Old 11-27-2007, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cainsw
Bingo! We have a winner!
You guys are awsome! We tore it down today and it turnsout we had the low roller assembled wrong. We got that lined out and put her back together and she worked like a champ. Thank you guys very much for this as we'd have never even noticed it was together wrong and would have been chasing grimlens forever on this deal. I thought we knew what we were doing on these 4L60's. But I do know where we'll come for tranny parts and help from now on! And with 3 LS race cars, 3 LS street cars and 4 LS trucks we'll need it! You guys rock.

BTW, we have a 00 Z28 that keeps killing 3-4 clutches what can we change to get these to hold up? We have tried all the different clutches and none of them will hold up more the 2-3 trips to the track. This car runs mid 11's with a TCI SSF 3600. We also have this same setup in our 98 TA (Yank PT4000) runs the same and it has lasted almost 2 years. And it goes to the track atleast 3 times a month. (yea we have a bunch of LS cars/trucks and they all get raced)
glad I could help. See, making mistakes is how we learn I made that same mistake once and learned from it and was able to pass on the info to you. . on the 3-4 burnup one thing that gets overlooked alot that will burn up a 3-4 is a leaking #7 checkball
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Last edited by performabuilt2; 11-27-2007 at 05:38 PM.




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