boilertwinkie

iTrader: (1)

Vince,

Liked the drillbit measurement trick.

boola1341

iTrader: (1)

If the spacing with the converter or flexplate wasn't right what problems would that cause.......Vibrations???

FLT

iTrader: (1)

The obvious problem would be a damaged pump or broken converter as mentioned earlier in this thread. If you have a vibration, I would think that a bent flexplate, improperly balance converter, engine, drive line angle, mounts, drive shaft.......and so on would be what to look at. The only way converter spacing could be an isssue is if you were to use washers and they were not the same thickness. Vince

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

I've got 3/8" gap b/w converter and flexplate (new CSR plate).

How many 7/16" washers should I use for spacing?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

I do not recommend using more than one single equal thickness washer for each bolt. I would try to get the spacing between 3/16 and a 1/16. When you measured the spacing did you use a drill bit like mentioned earlier in this thread? I saw on either jegs or summit where they sell an assortment of washers just for shimming the converter. Might be something to look into if you can not find what you are looking for locally. Vince

highgear

I watched two converter being installed in my 1998 Camaro Z28. The first was a Yank and the last one was a Midwest. I remember the Installers turning the converters and hearing them "Clunk" when they seated but I never saw anyone take any measurements.
They both drove fine.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

Used a 3/8" drill bit, and it slid b/w the converter pad and the plate. 7/16" bit would not fit b/w pad and plate.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

If you are using the end of the drill bit that would chuck into the drill, then you are definitely going to need to shim it. Sounds like the build height on the converter or the flex plate are just a bit off. Vince

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

That's good to know. something else I noticed about the converter... The space is 3/8" on two of the pads. The third pad; however, has less space (a 3/8" bit won't fit). THis is measuring off the same spot on the flexplate (by spinning the converter). So, I'm guessing the converter will be out of balance, or will it?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

I guess anything is possible. It is possible that maybe the converter slid forward throwing off your measurement. What brand converter is this? Also maybe the converter is not fully supported by the pilot causing it to hang down a bit when you made the measurement. Vince

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

could be. I'm not disclosing the brand. But, I can say it's not one of yours.

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

So i should try to get the gap between that? I have feeler gauges im gonna use and it says .060"-.187" is acceptable when the converter is completely seated in the bellhousing correct? Just double checking for when my Yank arrives.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Yes you are correct. Your going to love that converter! Vince

trey04gto

iTrader: (4)

Holy old thread.

Installed my converter but have not turned the car over yet. I could easily turn the converter by hand before bolting to flexplate BUT even using a flexplate wrench, one bolting up the converter it is very difficult to turn. THAT OKAY??

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

One other thing I never see mentioned is bolt length. This wasn't a problem back in the good ole days with flange style converter pads that use a bolt and nut.

But today most converters use billet front covers with blind holes. They even come with bolts. The industry standard on bolt length thread engagement is 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt. Every bolt that I've seen supplied with a billet converter is too short. Add spacers and the engaged thread gets shorter.

Too long a bolt will tighten up, but will not clamp the flexplate to the converter, sometimes this isn't very obvious and can lead to knocking noises and cracked flexplates. Sometimes it's not so obvious at first.

The first thing that should be done before the converter goes in is check the thread depth, thread a long bolt in to see how deep a bolt will go finger tight. Add the thickness of the flexplate and any shims to the depth and subtract approx. 1/8" or whatever will get the bolt to thread in 1.5 times it's diameter.

MarkoLBR

I´ve got a 0.354" gap measured with the CSR flexplate and FTI converter.
FTI says they have sold 150 of these without a problem.
From the bellhousing with FLT trans to the mounting pads of the converter i have 1.1".
The CSR flexplate is about 0.118" off compared to the stock flexplate i had , measured from the bellhousing mounting point to the engine block to the mounting point of the converter.
Also the bolt circle of the flexplate seems a little bit off compared to the stock converter.
Also the bolts supplied with the converter had 0.236" thread to the converter with flexplate.

Regards Marko

MadIceV8

iTrader: (12)

That's way to big. Defiantly needs to get shimmed.

larrygto

iTrader: (3)

I've never done this before so I have a few questions.
Unless I missed it I didn't see which way you spin to engage the converter I assume it's counter clockwise and the opposite to get the old converter off?
Also should the trans be in park, neutral ,drive?
Thanks!

MarkoLBR

Yes , a friend of mine is going to make me some 0.216" schims.
That seems to set the converter correctly into crank and correct space from transmission.

Also trying to find some correct lenght bolts that thread at least 0.472" into the converter pads.

I´m having a hard time to find bolts (the ones on the right in picture) with correct thread pitch.
Stock/supplied bolt with converter is in the left of picture.

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Good Info...I helped on mine and is was anything but a good time lol.