PBA

Torque converter to flexplate clearance in the range of .080" - .125" is ok. Ideal is apx. .100". This will give maximum rotor to torque converter hub contact. You have to have some clearance for torque converter growth from mainly heat.

blackbirdofprey

iTrader: (3)

Had My SS3600 for a year now, currently have Dexron VI in it right now which Yank says DEX VI is ok but wanted to see if DEX III would tighting up the Converter a lil, Really no problems just want to see If you guys prefer DEX III or DEX VI for Yank Converters.

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blackbirdofprey

iTrader: (3)

opps wrong thread

BlackBirds

iTrader: (24)

Bringing back a good thread with a question of my own...

I bought a Yank converter to go with my new TH350 from Rossler. I'm putting the converter into the transmission right now as I'm getting ready to install the transmission. Everything I've read on this forum and on Yank's pamphlet that comes with the converter says you need to have 1.125" from the bell housing to the converter pads, but every time I get the converter seated all the way I am only getting 1" from the bell housing to the converter pads. I've pushed and spun and I cannot get it to seat any further to get the extra .125". I even checked with a trick of mine to see if the converter was seated all the way. As seen in the picture below, I took some all purpose grease and placed it on the converter where the notches are on the end of the shaft. I seated the converter all the way, and then pulled it out. There was clearly grease left behind on the male part of the pump inside the transmission, telling me these two parts mated together, but I still only measured one inch!! If these two parts mate together doesn't this mean the torque converter has been pressed in all the way?

Any advice? Do I have the wrong idea here? I'm just worried I wont get proper pump to converter contact.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I didnt see anywhere in this thread how far off the ground the car needs to be to get the trans out? Think I may have read somewhere its 19" from ground to undersides of car? Anyone know?

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

the 1.125 I beleave is correct for the 4l60, I do not remenber if that is correct
FOR the " TH350 "
Johnny

BlackBirds

iTrader: (24)

The manufacturer and the first page of this site says that you need 1.125"

brian r

iTrader: (14)

waht are you guys using to measure 1.125 in. are you just basically saying it needs to be 1 and 1/8 gap. i am installing a SS3600 Yank into a stock 1998 TA with the stock trans and flex plate. Stupid ? but want to make sure everything is 100% correct before going ot far!

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Just use a ruler. Put the converter in and measure from the end of the belhousing to the converter and yes it should be right about 1 and 1/8 from the end of the belhousing. Don't forget to measure ur torque converter to flexplate gap. That is the most important thing. On the 4l60e you want to have under 3/16ths gap. 1/8 is about perfect

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for just posting now. In one of my earlier posts quoted below, I ran into a similar issue to what you are having.

On a unit that I had built I ran into the same issue with measuring from the face of the bell to the converter pads. I even installed this converter into a couple of cores we had at the shop I was working in at the time. After making a bunch of measurements I contacted the converter manufacture. I was told that the build height for this particular converter was correct and that it should work regardless of the measurements that we are all told to follow with the info in this thread. I honestly did not believe it however when the customer installed the trans, the flexplate to converter pad measurements were fine! I honestly did not get it but it worked. Below is another quote from this thread that you could try. It seems from the pictures you posted that the converter hub is definitely seated into the pump as it should be. Maybe try the method below to see if it helps you any.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Any idea how far the car has to be off the ground to get trans out?

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

More than 19" I would go atleast 2 and 1/2 feet up. I did it on a lift though

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Thanks.
I guess ill have to figure something else out then cause I have no lift. I have 2 19" jack stands and 2 more that are like 14" or something. So I guess 4 taller jackstands and a nice jack cause the one I have is shot

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Put the taller jackstands in the front.

What i did, was used the plastic ramps up front, with a 2x12 under the front tires, and jackstands under the rear axle. When it came time to get the trans out from under the car, i just jacked it up far enough to slide her on out.

BTW, i just bought an Arcan XL-35R floor jack and it is by far the best jack ive ever used!! Low profile, but lifts high!

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I was wrong about my stands. The bigger ones are 21" and I have 3 2x12s to go under them on each side of the car. Thats 25.5" + 6" already off the ground = 31.5" total off the ground. Then other stands for the rear are 17" so that should be plenty if I do it that way.

Thanks for the info. Thats a good way how you did yours. Maybe ill just do it like that. I just hope ill have enough room to get in there to undo the trans with the car only on those ramps.

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

Depending on where you put your stands you can always try to drag the trans out from the front of the car or slip the top of bell housing through a wheel well. Vince

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Yes sir it will be coming out from the front now that I think about it. Would you happen to know what it (4l60e) weighs?

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

Converter alone is 55lbs lol. It is pretty heavy.

Vince B

iTrader: (1)

The trans IIRC is about 150lbs minus converter.

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Total shipping weight for my 60e and SS3600 from FLT was about 225, so i would guess close to <200lbs. I dropped mine out by hand, but im a pretty big guy.