Vinny1

Ok guys I just got my transgo 4l60e-hd2-c reprogramming kit. I thought about letting a trans guy put it in but I am thinking about doing it myself. I know there have to be some tricks to it that aren't in the instructions. What kind of fluid should I run? Do I really have to do something about the torque managment? I guess the biggest concern I have is having to have the computer adjusted sence I don't know anyone that has the ability to do it. The instructions it came with are only ok and could be better. These ***** I read about. Are they going to just fall out? One ball in the case? Where are the others? I am fairly good at doing things myself but am no mechanic so any advice or helpful links would be great!

Vinny

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Theres one ball in the case it goes toward the rear of the trans at the accumulator, If your carefull and keep the plate level when you drop the plate it willlikley stay on the plate at its hole. The other ***** are in the valve body and will not fall out as long as you dont flip the valve body over.Then you can see and mark where they go though there is a pagein the kit that will show you where they go , There will be 7 in the VB and 1 n the case. I would suggest if you havent had any experince with transmissions that you enlist the help of the trans shop. If the trans is otherwise stock I would use the lighter settings of the kits and less washers in the accumulator. As a really firm 1-2 shift n particular is very hard on the stock sun shell. You do not have to have torque management remove from the program with the shift kit. And should require no ajustment of the PCM. If you do decide to do it yourself and have any questions I am available everyday from 9 am till 12 midnight 7 days a week.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

There are 7 ***** in the valve body and 1 in the case located near the 3-4 accumulator. The directions are pretty clear on this. As far as oil, myself I do not believe in synthetic oil for auto transmissions because of the friction materials. We use dexron III and I have been using it for 18 years. I can not say that I have had one failure because of using this oil. As for the torque management, we recommend to our customers to remove it if they would like to do so. We feel from a performance stand point it does not need to be there. Hope this info helps. Take a look at the thread in my signature to see some photo's of what you will be doing in the trans. The complete install of the kit is not in the thread but there is plenty of reference material for you there. I will be adding more to it but for now use what you can. Vince

Vinny1

Ok, I got a few more questions. What do you mean '' stock sun shell''? On page 2 of the instructions it states "Don't use 554 piston". What do I do if thats the piston I have? What do I use? How long does it take to install this particular kit and how much fluid do I need to purchase?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Stock shells wear out or will break is what franks is saying. The stock shell can break is what he is trying to say however I have seen them last for a long time. There is a picture of a broken shell in the thread that I told you to look at earlier. The 554 piston should not be found in your car. It was never used in an fbody. You will need about 6-8 quarts if I had to guess. As far as the amount of time it will depend on your abilities. I can do it in under an hour if you are not going to put the springs in the input drum. That requires removing the trans. The spring kit is in the wow thread. Vince

Vinny1

Just a couple more questions and I'll leave you alone. Was that grease I saw holding the ***** in the VB in your pictures? If so what kind and will I need some considering I am not pulling my trans? The one ball that goes in the case do you use the grease to hold the ball up until you get the plate and gasket on?

Thanks

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

You can use vaseline it works well The grease you probably saw is a slightly thicker version but only available to trans shops

PBA

On 1996 & later units do not grind the manual valve. The instructions have not been updated on this. If the transmission is coming out to do this install, do not install the orificed plugs in the reverse input piston, as they can cause centrifuge problems. What torque converter are you planning on using here?

Vinny1

Just the stock for now. Later I would like about a 3200 give or take stall. One of the recommended brands like Vigalanty(sp), Yank or TCI. Who ever has the best deal on a GOOD converter. Any recommendations?

Vinny

Area 51 Racing

iTrader: (5)

I let my trans mechanic do mine... the instructions were junk

PBA

How much later till you install the high stall torque converter?

Vinny1

Later in the summer I guess. If I can convince the banker!

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

This thread could be a bit long, but I think I can make my point. It's refreshing to see someone like Vince@FLT as well as others show some of his wares and trade secrets to help the customer. I've been in the trans business for 32 years and this invention allows us as tradesmen to help. The reason to go and do the trans right the first time is the money. Do it once. You could install the kit yourself, but if the trans is worn the clutch and band clearances are not conducive for a "shift kit". This is why Gill Younger and crew have so much writing in their kits. It says in your particular kit to have a pro do it. Shift kits are mainly to address shift firmness, shift timing, and holding power. You also said you have a tuner. I use HP Tuners Pro System. I fine tune my 4L75E with the HP Tuner after I installed the 4L60E Pro-2 kit. I can tell you, especially with a stock converter, to install 1 shim in the 1-2 accumulator if you have 3.42-up gears as it will shift very firm. If you don't have the HD reverse drum, good bye splines. Get rid of the torque management. The point is I see guys on the web with these awesome cars and big money motors and rear ends, but know one really wants to go out and properly assemble a transmission and converter set-up. I also know my industry. It doesn't always have the best reputation. Most guys who build know a little but don't pursue performance. Being from the Detroit area in the 70's there was competition between rival shops and we all had hot cars to see who had "The Big One", out on Telegraph or Woodward. I experiment with my own stuff before I put it in a customers vehicle. I currently have an 02 SS conv. A4, modified by myself, Vigilante 3800 conv, EFI NX Gemini kit set on 150HP. Stock bottom end with ARP 2000 rod bolts. SLP billet chain and gears, oil pump, SFI balancer, smooth bellows, 90MM TB, and lid came w/car. Comp Cams .595-.598, 232-234@.050", 112 L/S, the new GM 8000 rpm hyd-rol lifters, Comp 7.425" Hard pushrods, stock heads sent to ET Performance for a Stage 2 cnc, 316-241cfm, 2.05-1.570", Patriot Gold springs, titanium retainers, factory LS-6 intake port-matched. Strange chrome-moly driveshaft, Dana 60 w/4.10's. 255lph pump, 42lb injectors, BMR Extreme rear kit, Dynatech stainless headers and y-pipe w/cats. Stock pipe to center exit exhaust. I run 7.0's@ 101.89 through the exhaust at over 4100lbs, 264lb driver. 1.5-1.6 60'. What a leviathon!! I've been beating this trans with constant NX at the track and on the street, Northern Michigan has LOTS of roads to stretch your legs, for about 9500 miles. I get 24 mph, and drive to the track, about 50 miles one way, and am confident about my trans for the drive home. I drive this car to Detroit from Traverse City 280 miles to the Woodward Cruise every year. The next week all the way back to the Telegragh cruise, then to the Grand Rapids cruise, for the trifecta. The Friday night before each cruise, I race the car at Northern Michigan Dragway. Call some of these companies that sponsor this site. That is why they advertise. They show you they have the knowlege to do you right. Hell, today they can put a clear color picture so you can see it! Make the call.

Vinny1

My trans is bone stock right now so I guess I don't have a heavy duty reverse drum. The car isn't going to be a race car, just a part-time driver. I was going to put 2 spacers in but now I don't know. Should I just put one? I want to be able to tell the differance! What would be a average price to have it installed? From what I have read on every site on the net about these transmission is that a stock one IS going to fail at some point. My car has only 42,XXX miles on it when it fails I will spend the bucks on a better build trans.

Vinny

Vinny1

What about it guys? 1 or 2 spacers?

Damn sure don't want to end its life too soon ha ha.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

1 or none is what I have been using depending on which housing your trans is using for the 1-2 accumulator. The gold spring seat must be used. In the late housing the spring seat will have to be used with one washer.

Vinny1

Well my car is an '02 (about as late an f-body as you can get) so I guess one washer correct?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

I will have to get a couple pictures of the different housings. I'm not sure off hand when the change was made. I want to say 03 or 04 but I could be wrong. I will try to take a couple photo's for you this week and go from there. Vince

PBA

With the PN 8684428 housing follow the instructions. With the PN 24219937 housing, install the blue spring first, then the spring seat, piston, and then the orange spring. This 937 housing set up this way, will give the smoothest part throttle shifts, while still giving firm WOT shifts. DO NOT use the spacers, as they only firm up the part throttle shift and this creates unnecessary wear on the geartrain. If you install the spring seat as per TransGo instructions on the 937 housing, it will bend (ruin) the spring seat.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

I agree I do not use the spacers in any of our units.