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seating the converter

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Old 01-24-2008, 02:06 PM
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Default seating the converter

i am putting my motor back in today, and i want to put my converter back in and wanted to doublecheck to make sure i seat it right, i am very paranoid because i messed this up one time before, last time i got the three clicks and it still didnt seat right, luckily i didnt break anything. but, what was the was to reinstall and how exactly to check it. any help is appreciated.
Old 01-24-2008, 03:02 PM
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Make sure the converter bolt lugs are aprox 3/4 to 1 inch receded from the face of the bell housing . Also unless you have really skinny fingers you should not be able to get your fingers between rear of converter and pump At least with the stock converter
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Old 01-24-2008, 03:08 PM
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take close caution to the two splines* in the pump make sure u pay close atention and see if they move when u move the converter when its set in there, do that a few times to build up your confidence, and should be fine
Old 01-24-2008, 03:19 PM
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I say measure. The old three click method doesn't seem to work so well with lock up converters because the o-ring adds resistance.
The fail safe way is to measure, then when you install it on the engine give the converter a turn every so often when you put the trans and engine together. If it gets tight at all stop and recheck.
Old 01-24-2008, 05:28 PM
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Here is the answer to your question. GM 700 R4, 4L60E, 200-4R = 1.125" from bellhousing to converter pads. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...96#post8201796 Hope this helps. Vince

Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
This topic of discussion seems to be one that I constantly get asked. With the help of Terry of Precision Industries aka Vig converters I wanted to post this. This text is what comes with all converters that they have built in the past few weeks. I feel that it is good stuff and wanted to share with all of you. Here it is.


Torque Converter Installation

1. Using a lift or jack stands raise car off the ground far enough to be able to slide transmission out from under the vehicle.

2. After the vehicle is raised, drain the transmission fluid into a drain pan by removing the pan bolts from the rear half of the pan then slowly loosen the remaining bolts to allow pan to tilt down towards the ground allowing the fluid to drain into the drain pan.

3. Remove the battery cable, starter (if necessary), driveshaft, torque converter bolts, exhaust (if
necessary), cross member and all of the transmission bolts except for one near the dowel pin.

4. Raise the transmission up slightly by placing a suitable transmission jack under the transmission.

5. Remove the last bellhousing bolt and remove the transmission.

6. Check the flexplate for cracks and chipped teeth on the ring gear. Take the new torque converter and hold it against the flexplate to see if the application is correct by checking that the pilot size and bolt circle are correct.

7. Add a quart of new transmission fluid to the torque converter. Using the aid of a helper, stand the transmission on the tail shaft and carefully install the torque converter onto the transmission. Spin the torque converter and listen for 3 distinct clicks as it drops into the transmission. The following are measurements you can make to insure the torque converter is all the way in the transmission:

GM-TH350, Powerglide=1.125" from bellhousing to the converter pads.

GM TH400 = 1.187" from bellhousing to converter pads.

GM 700 R4, 4L60E, 200-4R = 1.125" from bellhousing to converter pads.

GM 4L80E = 1.030" from bellhousing to converter pads.

Distance may vary +/- .050".

8. Remove any debris in the crankshaft pilot hole and lubricate. Clean and lubricate the dowel pins. Check to see that dowel pins will be in the transmission bellhousing by more than .250".

9. Mount transmission to the back of the engine block making sure the bellhousing fits squarely against the block. If it does not, find out why! Is there something between the bellhousing and block or has the torque converter slipped out of the transmission? DO NOT PULL UP THE
BELLHOUSING TO THE BLOCK USING THE BELLHOUSING BOLTS!!!!

10.After the transmission bellhousing bolts are tightened, check to see if the torque converter will turn by hand. Push the torque converter back into the transmission as far as it will go. Using feeler gauges or calipers measure the gap between the flexplate converter mounting pad and the torque converter mounting pad. If gap distance is between .060" and .187" it is OK to bolt up the torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187" install a .060" flat washer between the torque converter and flexplate.

11. Finish installing the cross member, exhaust, driveshaft, etc. Add 5 quarts of good quality transmission fluid. Start the engine and immediately add 2 more quarts. Check the fluid and finish filling the transmission to proper level.

Last edited by FLT; 01-24-2008 at 10:04 PM.
Old 01-24-2008, 08:49 PM
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if the converter is not in all the what would happen,would there be anhy vabrition?
Old 01-24-2008, 09:26 PM
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I believe it usaully breaks the pump gears thus the car wont move after the transmission is installed so therefore you will have to remove the transmission and get the pump fixed happened to us on our first 4l60e/converter install.
Old 01-24-2008, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir02TA77
I believe it usaully breaks the pump gears thus the car wont move after the transmission is installed so therefore you will have to remove the transmission and get the pump fixed happened to us on our first 4l60e/converter install.
That would be the correct answer
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:31 AM
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i did this a week ago waiting on the new tranny to get here now ;o(



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