Tranny Removal Question
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Tranny Removal Question
Ok This whole thing is a PITA LoL I can't figure out a way to get the damn flywheel to TC bolts out. Is there a trick or something? The damn lip on top of the oil pan gets in the way. I can get a pretty good grip on an 8mm allen wrench that I cut and fit to an 8mm socket. From there I added a six inch extension and got a ratchet on it. I can only pull to the point to where the tranny is bowing down and I feel like I'm gonna strip it. Any ideas on how to do this easily? I f@#$in hate droppin the tranny. This is my first time to do it and I hope I never have to do it again LoL Any suggestions on how to make this process go more smoothly, I would much appreciate it. Thanks guys.
Jeff
Jeff
#4
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What I did when I had the allen head type bolts in mine. I found the right allen head that fit the bolt tightly.. Just one of the regular allen heads with the 90* angle on it.
Then get a socket with an extension connected to it. The socket should be semi tight on the allen wrench. Then just use leverage til the bolt pops and it will be loose.
In order to get to these bolts the starter will need to be off along with the converter shield if you haven't already removed it. Once you can see the flexplate, get a nice sized flat head screwdriver and stick on the teeth of the flexplate and turn it by hand. Until the bolt is in the right place for you to get to it. For me i waited til the bolt was almost blocked by the bellhousing. That seemed to be the best spot for me.
hope that helps some and makes sense.
Then get a socket with an extension connected to it. The socket should be semi tight on the allen wrench. Then just use leverage til the bolt pops and it will be loose.
In order to get to these bolts the starter will need to be off along with the converter shield if you haven't already removed it. Once you can see the flexplate, get a nice sized flat head screwdriver and stick on the teeth of the flexplate and turn it by hand. Until the bolt is in the right place for you to get to it. For me i waited til the bolt was almost blocked by the bellhousing. That seemed to be the best spot for me.
hope that helps some and makes sense.
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I have all the covers off, starter, and everything detached as I should LoL I tried using a 90 degree Allan wrench with a socket and an extension to use as a pry bar and shoved a screw driver in the teeth to seize it up, but they still aren't budging. I soaked them with wd 40 as well. Running out of options here. Wish I could fit a breaker bar up there, but it's too large. Can't fit an impact either. Any other things I could try?
#7
I have all the covers off, starter, and everything detached as I should LoL I tried using a 90 degree Allan wrench with a socket and an extension to use as a pry bar and shoved a screw driver in the teeth to seize it up, but they still aren't budging. I soaked them with wd 40 as well. Running out of options here. Wish I could fit a breaker bar up there, but it's too large. Can't fit an impact either. Any other things I could try?
are you using a 3/8ths drive extension and socket on the end of the allen wrench? try using a deep socket that the pattern goes all the way down to the extension (craftsman). that way you can eliminate as much of the flex in the tool as possible.
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#8
yea dude im here with you those bolts are so hard. I already striped one and idk what to do and i got only one out. What inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhouseing you takin about wheres that at i only got the stater cover off didnt see any others
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I'm gonna try and tackle it again today. There are two covers. One on the passenger side by the starter and one by the oil filter on the driver side. The one by the oil filter has really no use, but it gave me a little room to wedge a screw driver in so I could have the other side completely free. I read on another thread about a guy who stripped the threads on one. The suggestions given were either vice grips, or cutting the head of the bolt off, taking off the fly wheel, getting rid of the stud, and replacing the bolt. The guy successfully cut the head off the bolt and got the stud out that way. It will be a bitch considering you might mess up the flex plate getting the little bastards off. The metal lines are annoying as hell, but I don't want to bend them to get them out of the way. If I get them off and I assure you that I will, I'm thinking I might replace them with a normal bolt LoL I'll try the deep socket today. That might be a good idea. Even though the allen wrench is pretty thick, I still was bending it a bit. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll try heating as well. Might have to at this point. Only time I've ever had to use a heating/cooling method is to press in bearings LoL This will be fun.
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Thats why I really love my th350 and th400 for the simple fact of an open housing. And with the manual valvebody all I have attached is a driveshaft and shifter. It really makes tranny removal a snap.
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Alright, I finally got those damn bolts loose and out. Everything is down to the final stages. Got all 8 bolts out. But the tranny doesn't want to come off the metal dowels. I got it off of 1 dowel, but the other one won't budge... Any ideas on sliding this thing out?
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Pry bar...Mine did the same thing. It actually pulled the dowel out of the block because it was so corroded to the trans.
Use a 2x4, put it against the bellhousing lip at the starter opening and wack it with a hammer while a friend stands by the tailshaft and wiggles the trans all around.
Use a 2x4, put it against the bellhousing lip at the starter opening and wack it with a hammer while a friend stands by the tailshaft and wiggles the trans all around.
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F&$# my life! LoL Finally got that damn thing out. Someone please tell me that it's easier to reinstall it than it is to remove it? If it's going to be 10x harder, I'm gonna drain all fluids, start her up, and do the most badass burnout until everything explodes for putting me through so much crap LoL