oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Hi there. I have received so many varying opinions on this matter that i'm contemplating going back to my m6 lol. (nah i'm gonna try out this a4 a little more first I was wondering if it is ok to drive around in SECOND or THIRD exclusively and just leave it in that gear when in town. That way I can hear the wicked sound of the exhaust as the rpms fall on their own. I really don't have a WHOLE lot of interest in manually shifting but still would like to know what the answer is (from a definitive source) in regards to this topic. Read this review and tell me whether this is bs or what? Promise I won't revisit this topic anymore (if I get a saisfactory answer).

http://www.theautochannel.com/vehicl...g12059702.html

ps. please spare me the "well switch to an m6 if you want to manually shift" comments. If you can't answer the question, don't! Thanks. Also, if anyone has any (ANY) supporting documentation/evidence for their opinions please post. That would be greatly appreciated.

00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

I'm not the one to technically tell you whether or not it's ok, but from personal experience I lost my 4L60E after 50k miles on the car and it only took it 5k miles after the H/C install to toast....

And I was one of these "Manual Shifters" (Go FVMB! Makes all your hopes and dreams a reality)

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Ok, but isn't that like saying that I lost my engine due to nitrous? Woudn't that depend highly on HOW it's done. HOW one shifts the auto would be just as important as HOW nitrouse is installed. I am just saying this because wouldn't that be blaming nitrous for poor installation? Just like your tranny....maybe your tranny was going to drop anyways, right? I mean, no offense but that just tells me that you lost your tranny, and not WHY you lost your tranny. If I drop to "first" at forty mph, then yeah....boom!!! I really just want to know if it is the shifting itself that damages the trans or the "method" one does it? Thanks for the quick reply man.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

OH yeah, what is "FVMB"? Just had to ask, i'm a noob on here you see

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

i manually shift mine alot. i know when to drop a gear and when i like to shift up, etc... of course mine isnt a stock tranny, and has been built bout much as you can. i dont drive around too awful far at a time though in one gear though cause i would think the tranny oil would heat up and thin out too much and that prob where people hurt their tranny's. only time i downshift is when i coming to stop sign or redlight or something and i switch gears when pulling out at about 3 or 4 grand if i'm wanting some sound. if not i just put it back in OD after stopping and let it do it's work.

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Yes ok, so it's ok to leave it in second or third but dont drive the **** out of it in second since the tranny will heat up. Sounds reasonable to me. Next question: does the stock transmission come with a trans cooler? Hell, I don't even know how to tell if mine came with a power steering cooler??

Also just curious, why didn't you go with a higher stall since you did so much work to it? I guess maybe you like having that top end perhaps??? Thanks for the reply.

Evilways

iTrader: (1)

When I had my 2000 TA WS6, I also was on the fence about "manually" shifting the auto trans and talked to a couple of performance shops back then. My experience was this: if you have a stock A4 (not "built"), then it is better to just leave it in D for everyday driving. "3" was selected for drag strip use. I blew several soleniods and tore up a valve body in my stock but "tuned" A4 trying to "manually" shift it before I purchased a Rossler built A4. With the "built" trans, the tune was removed (I belive the "tune" I speak of increased pressure and made the car shift a bit harder, like a shift kit only without going in the trans) and I could manually go through the gears with no issues. I drove both ways (auto and manually) for about 15K miles on the Rossler with no issues. IMO, if you have a stock A4, theres little to no benefit from shifting it manually with the exception of the downshift burble from the exhaust and maybe the extra little "kick" from taching up higher for shifting than the car would in full auto. It's not worth having a blown trans IMO. And FWIW, a trans cooler for an auto is always a good idea, just don't go so "cold" that the trans never heats up properly and you get slippage.

jorgez28

The stock tranny does have a cooler but it is in the radiator and uses coolent to cool the tranny oil. But this is not good when you heat up the tranny by manually shifting. On that note I had a LT1 that I maunally shifted all the time and nothing happened. But my Ls1 tranny went out at 60K and I babied it. So now I got a rebuit tranny and a cooler, you might want to get an cooler for the tranny just for insurance.

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

honestly, i didnt know what to expect with the 2600 stall i hadn't ever had a stall before and thought it would be enough. i should've done more research i suppose. but in all reality it is fine for DD use and yes for top end, but it not gonna be a great one at the track. who can use their top end around here anyways. in ways i wish i had went at least a 3400 or something knowing what i know now. i have heard once you go over a certain rpm stall you have to get a tune put in ur car for it to work properly?

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

oh and yes put an aftermarket cooler on it

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I drive around in 3rd around town, no ill effect so far.
It just keeps from going OD and locking when I coast.

But manually shifting is only fooling yourself if you're
looking for performance, a well tuned automatic shift
setup will do as well as your best try at manual but
consistently.

Even the stock setup could use a tune, big time.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

As I have said before while i have no issues with manual shifting and the only thing i can see as a real possibility happening doing it. is under deceleration cause heavy wear on the overun clutch set and if the transgo manual hold down valve is used in the 1-2 position wear on the low/reverse clutch set and excessive engine over run if you shift down at high speeds.
However I agree that a properly tuned trans/pcm can easily out do anyone manually shifting,

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

yup i agree my car will run it's best if left in OD. i dont try manual shifting to race, i manual shift for sound

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

bump***

Jassick

iTrader: (1)

not real sure what else you're looking for, you got a mod and a sponsor both saying that for cruising, or sound purposes, there is no problems. all i have to add is if you want it to tach up a little higher when you start, just give it a little more gas.

just don't bother try it for performance,
or use downshift for engine decel. or the like (at least that's what i took from Performabuilt)

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Well actually I was looking for more clarification on the "review" i posted in the original. But you are right, I guess that's all i'm gonna get is a few people saying it's ok for some things but not performance. Good point lol.

Jassick

iTrader: (1)

ah, well as for the review, i wouldn't put too much stock in it, just because he didn't really go into any details as to how/why/when he were manually shifting. Though he did say, "You can shift it if you want," leading me to believe he didn't bother with it.

darrensls1

Manually downshifting a stock 4L60E is bad. If you want to shift gears then switch to an M6

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

If you read the original post you may have actually spared me this particular reply. I am interested in keeping my A4, was just curious is all. But thanks.

darrensls1

If you had noticed how I worded it almost exactly as you did and then used a smilie you might of picked up on the sarcasm/joking. And you're welcome