Wire Arcing Out...
#1
Wire Arcing Out...
I've had a intermittent stumble for about 2 weeks that has progressively gotten worse over that time. it would be okay when it was cold and once it was at operating temps it would spudder and stumble under a load.
i suspected a fouled plug or two and wrote it off as such.
last night i came home from a partay (woot woot) and the
symptom was in full effect fo sho'. so i popped the hoody and
what do i see? a drivers side wire arcing at mey. werd!
what a relief as guessing and pulling 8 plugs in these cars is
as fun as beating off with a cheese grater.
anyhoo, any of you guys wanna sound off as to the luck you've had
with either the MSD 8.5's or the Granatelli 1200* series (with heat boots)?
as I'm in need of a set of new wires.
i suspected a fouled plug or two and wrote it off as such.
last night i came home from a partay (woot woot) and the
symptom was in full effect fo sho'. so i popped the hoody and
what do i see? a drivers side wire arcing at mey. werd!
what a relief as guessing and pulling 8 plugs in these cars is
as fun as beating off with a cheese grater.
anyhoo, any of you guys wanna sound off as to the luck you've had
with either the MSD 8.5's or the Granatelli 1200* series (with heat boots)?
as I'm in need of a set of new wires.
#2
i just got tr6 and some cheap wires... work fine used same set up on trans am that made about 500bhp on spray! stock wires and coils will work with whatever setup under 800hp or more from what i can tell without problem
#3
I got the MSD 8.5's with a set of TR6's from Blanco99SS on this forum. Here is a link to his sale. $68 shipped for a set of handmade wires with a set of 8 plugs.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-g...k-68-00-a.html
Also be sure to get a set of Kool Sox from Lingenfelter or some other fiberglass sheath for the wires/boots. It really helps protect them and also prevents arcing in the event of a failure.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-g...k-68-00-a.html
Also be sure to get a set of Kool Sox from Lingenfelter or some other fiberglass sheath for the wires/boots. It really helps protect them and also prevents arcing in the event of a failure.
#4
Thanks men. I allready ordered some wires & heat sleeves from Jegs.
Granatelli - 2005-2009 GM 6.0L LS2/LS7 pt # 467-28-1811s $129.00
and Jegs hi heat sleeves (blue) pt # 555-40304 $49.99
They'll be here by wendsday. (gotta love jegs!)
i shoulda ordered a boot puller tool for $4.95
phukmee! lol
Granatelli - 2005-2009 GM 6.0L LS2/LS7 pt # 467-28-1811s $129.00
and Jegs hi heat sleeves (blue) pt # 555-40304 $49.99
They'll be here by wendsday. (gotta love jegs!)
i shoulda ordered a boot puller tool for $4.95
phukmee! lol
#5
No boot puller tool needed. It is possible to get the entire battery tray out (definitely take the battery out if nothing else) and it makes it very easy to get to the last 2 spark plugs on the passenger side. If you want to make it even easier on your hands you can do the last plug on the passenger side from under the car and it is VERY easy to get to.
I'm not sure how the piping for your turbo kit is from the manifolds, but with removing the, FRCs, coil packs, battery, battery tray, and swapping plugs and wires it took me just about 1.5 hours from start to finish with no cuts or scrapes.
Also make sure you use dielectric grease inside of both spark plug boots and it will make it SO much easier the next time you have to pull them off!
I'm not sure how the piping for your turbo kit is from the manifolds, but with removing the, FRCs, coil packs, battery, battery tray, and swapping plugs and wires it took me just about 1.5 hours from start to finish with no cuts or scrapes.
Also make sure you use dielectric grease inside of both spark plug boots and it will make it SO much easier the next time you have to pull them off!
Last edited by SkullV; 07-19-2009 at 02:23 PM.
#6
thanks for heads up, but luckily the arc is on the drivers side at the easiest plug,
(karma) and I'll be able to check the plug/plugs on that side quite easily.
as for the passenger side, all I'm doing is swapping out the stock
wires.
I'm using NGK-TR6 iridium plugs, and I'm gapped at .34*
(karma) and I'll be able to check the plug/plugs on that side quite easily.
as for the passenger side, all I'm doing is swapping out the stock
wires.
I'm using NGK-TR6 iridium plugs, and I'm gapped at .34*
#7
I CLICKED THAT LINK TO http://www.ccperformanceparts.com/
and i would say thats as good as it gets for quality wires and plugs.
this should be in the cts-v parts sticky. under ignition/plugs.
MSD 8.5mm w/Free NGK back in stock $68.00
just giving an over looked gift back.
thanks skullv, i wish i seen that link before i ordered.
i just spend $192.00 for my wires and boots and could have had a complete backup
set of wires and 24 ngk tr6 plugs (3 sets) for that same price. my beatdown is your lesson learned.
any time in the near/distant future if i need plugs and or wires
i will be ordering these.
and i would say thats as good as it gets for quality wires and plugs.
this should be in the cts-v parts sticky. under ignition/plugs.
MSD 8.5mm w/Free NGK back in stock $68.00
just giving an over looked gift back.
thanks skullv, i wish i seen that link before i ordered.
i just spend $192.00 for my wires and boots and could have had a complete backup
set of wires and 24 ngk tr6 plugs (3 sets) for that same price. my beatdown is your lesson learned.
any time in the near/distant future if i need plugs and or wires
i will be ordering these.
Last edited by The Don; 07-19-2009 at 02:57 PM.
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#8
TECH Senior Member
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I spoke to quite a few people who said that the factory wires are pretty good, going with aftermarket wont be very noticeable at all and just to buy the factory ones again. This was when i had the SS with the ls1. you might need a little more with the turbo and ignition system but i always heard stock wires are all you need.
#9
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My dad met a guy when he was in high school that lifted his hood and just spray painted everything with that chrome paint. My dad said he called him to see if my dad could find out why it was running like crap. Opened the hood and it looked like a firecracker display.
#10
I had the granatellis on my car, allong with the koolsox. I guess I'm a sucker some time for spending that extra $100 on stuff.
I coudn't tell a damned bit of difference. After 10k miles, one of my granatellis got burnt on a header primary (even with the koolsox). Perhaps they were just a wee bit too long. I went back to OEM wires (with koolsox over them just to be safe.) I've been running this way about 40k miles, with no issues.
I went tr-55-IX's, hoping to get more life outta the plugs before changing. Not a task I want to do all that often.
I assume you are going with the 6's due to FI...
-Chris
I coudn't tell a damned bit of difference. After 10k miles, one of my granatellis got burnt on a header primary (even with the koolsox). Perhaps they were just a wee bit too long. I went back to OEM wires (with koolsox over them just to be safe.) I've been running this way about 40k miles, with no issues.
I went tr-55-IX's, hoping to get more life outta the plugs before changing. Not a task I want to do all that often.
I assume you are going with the 6's due to FI...
-Chris
#11
i will definitely give a thumbs up or down on these wires
considering fitment and or failure issues.
time will tell, although these are like the stock coil to plug fit,
and the part number is for ls2/ls7 series gm cars.
i've seen a few write ups of people saying the granatelli's crapping out
on them. I'm not sure about these new patent pending design 0 ohm
wires though. like i said, i'll keep yall abreast of any info.
considering fitment and or failure issues.
time will tell, although these are like the stock coil to plug fit,
and the part number is for ls2/ls7 series gm cars.
i've seen a few write ups of people saying the granatelli's crapping out
on them. I'm not sure about these new patent pending design 0 ohm
wires though. like i said, i'll keep yall abreast of any info.
#12
trukk, i was also gonna toss on some patriot golds, along with some 1.85
rockers this year. i wanna add alittle more security uptop even though
i dont rev her past 6k. sinse i'm not doing a cam, i can't ask for feedback
with just rockers installed...i guess i'll be the guinnie vig.
i'll keep you posted as always.
rockers this year. i wanna add alittle more security uptop even though
i dont rev her past 6k. sinse i'm not doing a cam, i can't ask for feedback
with just rockers installed...i guess i'll be the guinnie vig.
i'll keep you posted as always.
#14
The only reason I replaced the wires is because I was already replacing the plugs, and from what I hear about Blanco99SS's wires they are top notch. They have been on the car for 2 weeks now with PLENTY of spirited driving and a few nitrous runs on the dyno and I couldn't be happier with them. The MSD boots being bendable to 45* is also awesome for routing the wires away from the headers.
#15
TECH Junkie
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The only real problem I've had is just the wires coming apart during install/removal. With an aftermarket wire the boots seem to be held in place by shear luck. Also the aftermarket wires I've had are always a little longer which sometimes puts them extremely close to the headers.
I've never had MSDs, though.
I've never had MSDs, though.
#16
The only real problem I've had is just the wires coming apart during install/removal. With an aftermarket wire the boots seem to be held in place by shear luck. Also the aftermarket wires I've had are always a little longer which sometimes puts them extremely close to the headers.
I've never had MSDs, though.
I've never had MSDs, though.