Z06 endlink length
11-04-2010, 11:06 PM
#1
Z06 endlink length Anybody know the length, center-center, of the Z06 endlinks, or more specifically, the difference in length from oem? I know they're shorter, but is it like 1/2"-3/4" or less?
Mine is stock height and plan on keeping it like that, but have an idea to make it work, but not if it's a huge difference in length.
So, if somebody has dimensions, that'd be great...I even thought of making some custom ones, but if I can get the Z06's off the shelf, they're relatively cheap and look beefy. There must be some other cars that also use something "bolt on", as an upgrade for ours, as well.
Just need to do something with my (stock, orig) endlinks and if the oem's are still gonna be a problem down the road...
Thanks,
John R.
Mine is stock height and plan on keeping it like that, but have an idea to make it work, but not if it's a huge difference in length.
So, if somebody has dimensions, that'd be great...I even thought of making some custom ones, but if I can get the Z06's off the shelf, they're relatively cheap and look beefy. There must be some other cars that also use something "bolt on", as an upgrade for ours, as well.
Just need to do something with my (stock, orig) endlinks and if the oem's are still gonna be a problem down the road...
Thanks,
John R.
11-04-2010, 11:28 PM
#4
The Z06 links are about 3.5" center to center, the stock V's are about 4.5" center to center in the front and about 3.5" in the rear. I made an adjustable set using balljoint endlinks, but the endlinks were not as good as THK links, so I am rebuilding the links using THK balljoints. The rear THK links have to be trimmed to reach the stock rear link length. The THK's should prove to have better longevity than the last ones I made. The first units were very strong, but they didn't have a very tight ball to socket fit. The THK's are made to tighter specs, so they should be quiet for much longer, and longer than regular heim joints. The balljoints also have greater rated strength than standard heim joints.
If you're just driving the car on the street at stock ride height, the stock links are adequate. Bigger swaybars, or running the car on a road course, may stress the stock links enough to consider stronger units.
If you're just driving the car on the street at stock ride height, the stock links are adequate. Bigger swaybars, or running the car on a road course, may stress the stock links enough to consider stronger units.
11-05-2010, 09:38 AM
#5
Another excellent endlink is the GMPD #25534473, which is listed as "ARB Endlink Assy., CTS-V". (packaged 1 ea.)
These are intended for use with the GMPD "SCCA club sport" bars, which are manufacturer discontinued, but may be still available as NOS at some dealers. Since they are adjustable, they can be used with just about any bar, but some adapting may be needed depending on the your bar end configuration.
It's a high-grade adjustable Heim setup that comes with all the hardware needed (for the "club sport bars). It does, however,not include the Heim end seals, but they're available from any of the better road race or circle track vendors.
Sealed and lubed with a good high-pressure grease (like Wurth SIG 3000) they will last indefinitely. Mine have been on the car since the summer of 2007.
These are intended for use with the GMPD "SCCA club sport" bars, which are manufacturer discontinued, but may be still available as NOS at some dealers. Since they are adjustable, they can be used with just about any bar, but some adapting may be needed depending on the your bar end configuration.
It's a high-grade adjustable Heim setup that comes with all the hardware needed (for the "club sport bars). It does, however,not include the Heim end seals, but they're available from any of the better road race or circle track vendors.
Sealed and lubed with a good high-pressure grease (like Wurth SIG 3000) they will last indefinitely. Mine have been on the car since the summer of 2007.
11-05-2010, 10:26 AM
#6
Thanks for the replies! Sounds like it may be about an inch difference then and what I was thinking about may not work then. For the heck of it, what I was thinking about was to 'drop' the bar down from where it mounts to the "chassis" about the same amount of difference between the two. However, an inch more may be pushing it, as a) you start relying too much on the bolt and b) if it's mounted on an angle at all, it's gonna throw the end position (where it attaches to the endlink) off enough, if that makes sense. I was hoping it was a perpendicular mounting, so it would simply push it down 1" but maintain the same 'Z' position. I'll have to look at it, but not real keen on this now (due to the distance).
I'll check out those other ones mentioned. Would be nice to have an upgraded, 'bolt on' part, for sure. You're probably right that an oem would be *ok* on a stocker (like mine), but makes me wonder why the oem's go out so fast? Aftermarket (oem) any better maybe?
What makes me think mine are out, besides a slight clunk on some bumps, is when I brake, the whole front end shakes and feels beyond what warped rotors feel like. The PO claims he put ceramic pads on, but he's the type of person I don't believe what he says (based on some other things), although I hardly get any dust up front, so maybe it's true. They probably do need to be 'bedded in', although plan on getting some new rotors eventually and may just go with good quality 'regular' pads, as this is frustrating! However, I really feel the endlink(s) are out though in addition and curious the symptoms (I'm gonna try to search too).
I'll check out those other ones mentioned. Would be nice to have an upgraded, 'bolt on' part, for sure. You're probably right that an oem would be *ok* on a stocker (like mine), but makes me wonder why the oem's go out so fast? Aftermarket (oem) any better maybe?
What makes me think mine are out, besides a slight clunk on some bumps, is when I brake, the whole front end shakes and feels beyond what warped rotors feel like. The PO claims he put ceramic pads on, but he's the type of person I don't believe what he says (based on some other things), although I hardly get any dust up front, so maybe it's true. They probably do need to be 'bedded in', although plan on getting some new rotors eventually and may just go with good quality 'regular' pads, as this is frustrating! However, I really feel the endlink(s) are out though in addition and curious the symptoms (I'm gonna try to search too).
11-05-2010, 04:47 PM
#7
Those are the endlinks that came with the GMPD swaybars if I'm not mistaken. I don't think they are available anywhere as I asked Luke to check for me some time ago. However, there was nothing really special about them. A good quality set of Aurora joints and connecting links would replicate them. You using Seals It rubber heim joint seals on your links, or the rubber boots? A couple guys who OT their cars wore out those GMPD links rather quickly, and moved on to links built with Aurora heim joints.
Another excellent endlink is the GMPD #25534473, which is listed as "ARB Endlink Assy., CTS-V". (packaged 1 ea.)
These are intended for use with the GMPD "SCCA club sport" bars, which are manufacturer discontinued, but may be still available as NOS at some dealers. Since they are adjustable, they can be used with just about any bar, but some adapting may be needed depending on the your bar end configuration.
It's a high-grade adjustable Heim setup that comes with all the hardware needed (for the "club sport bars). It does, however,not include the Heim end seals, but they're available from any of the better road race or circle track vendors.
Sealed and lubed with a good high-pressure grease (like Wurth SIG 3000) they will last indefinitely. Mine have been on the car since the summer of 2007.
These are intended for use with the GMPD "SCCA club sport" bars, which are manufacturer discontinued, but may be still available as NOS at some dealers. Since they are adjustable, they can be used with just about any bar, but some adapting may be needed depending on the your bar end configuration.
It's a high-grade adjustable Heim setup that comes with all the hardware needed (for the "club sport bars). It does, however,not include the Heim end seals, but they're available from any of the better road race or circle track vendors.
Sealed and lubed with a good high-pressure grease (like Wurth SIG 3000) they will last indefinitely. Mine have been on the car since the summer of 2007.
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11-05-2010, 07:07 PM
#8
I've used the Seals-It/Wurth combination on the Heims on my GNCC/NHS/woods bikes with a very high level of success for quite some time now and they certainly are run in an adverse environment.
Unprotected (and especially unlined) Heims won't live long in any environment. A friend wore out the 3/4" joints on his Cal Tracs over the period from early April to mid-November last year, but he did no maintenance on them other than a squirt of WD-40 after each wash.
Unsealed, unlubed and about 8" off the road surface, they didn't have a chance.
Most joint manufacturers have different grades of joints available and Aurora is certainly one of the better vendors. The GMPD joints were available as a complete unit, were priced right, and at the time I purchased them from the dealer, delivered quickly to the parts counter at no extra charge.
As for the GMPD endlinks, anyone wanting to try them should give Scoggin Dickey a call. The endlinks were serviced/available separately. Also, SDPC is a much larger outfit, and they always seem to be able to locate some of the harder to find items.
Last edited by scatillac; 11-06-2010 at 08:18 AM.
11-07-2010, 08:30 AM
#11
And here's another link....http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...GroupID=RODEND
11-07-2010, 10:44 PM
#13
Ah, got it. Shows you how long it's been since I've really done a whole lot with the cars (newer/LSx, etc) 
I kept my GTO pretty much stock, so nice to be able to get up to speed on this one, but still need to control myself, as this is the DD and all, he he.
I kept my GTO pretty much stock, so nice to be able to get up to speed on this one, but still need to control myself, as this is the DD and all, he he. 