Higher Mileage Vs
#1
Higher Mileage Vs
So, I have been hunting a V, and not having much luck finding something local, at a dealer, with low miles, that hasnt been completely beaten to death.
Went to look at a repaired one with 31K on it, walked away from that one (offered me a miserable trade in, and the car just didn't look quite right where it had been fixed).
Went to look at one down in chicago with 66K on it, had been beaten HARD by one of the previous owners, walked away from that one (motor had to have been out of the car at least a few times, judging by the scuzz build up and scratches in the engine bay).
there is one south of Chicago with 80K on it... A bit more miles than I wanted, was hoping to stay under 70, but, it looks to be very, very clean. the price is right on it, but, I am still a bit jumpy about buying one with 80K on it... should I be, or, am I just being paranoid?
I had a 2000 Audi S4, bought it at 90K, and it started to nickel and dime me to death at 110, and I dont want the V to be the same way. If that is how they are, I will hold off on going to look at this one and keep hunting a lower mileage one.
I put on abot 20K year, so, It would be into the triple digits in a year.
I know there are some members here with pretty high miles on their cars, was wondering what typically starts to go?
Went to look at a repaired one with 31K on it, walked away from that one (offered me a miserable trade in, and the car just didn't look quite right where it had been fixed).
Went to look at one down in chicago with 66K on it, had been beaten HARD by one of the previous owners, walked away from that one (motor had to have been out of the car at least a few times, judging by the scuzz build up and scratches in the engine bay).
there is one south of Chicago with 80K on it... A bit more miles than I wanted, was hoping to stay under 70, but, it looks to be very, very clean. the price is right on it, but, I am still a bit jumpy about buying one with 80K on it... should I be, or, am I just being paranoid?
I had a 2000 Audi S4, bought it at 90K, and it started to nickel and dime me to death at 110, and I dont want the V to be the same way. If that is how they are, I will hold off on going to look at this one and keep hunting a lower mileage one.
I put on abot 20K year, so, It would be into the triple digits in a year.
I know there are some members here with pretty high miles on their cars, was wondering what typically starts to go?
#3
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what itsslow says and few other bushings and your ride is GTG. I have 78k on the clock. drive it everyday and drag stip when I can. car is solid. I have changed ALL my bushings and car rides more "sporty", but that is they way I like it. Once you start modding though, you wont stop.
Just picked up my 42lb flow matched green tops, denso-kyosan 390lph fuel pump, ported fast 92mm, TPIS 90mm TB, 100mm LPE MAF and custom CAI. Installing above next weekend.
Getting ready for the MS3. If someone took care of the higher mileage V, it will be worth it, for the right price.
Just picked up my 42lb flow matched green tops, denso-kyosan 390lph fuel pump, ported fast 92mm, TPIS 90mm TB, 100mm LPE MAF and custom CAI. Installing above next weekend.
Getting ready for the MS3. If someone took care of the higher mileage V, it will be worth it, for the right price.
Last edited by VeryWhiteDevil; 12-31-2010 at 04:30 PM.
#4
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Been nursing my stock clutch...I have 95,xxx on the clock and noticed tonight that the throw-out bearing is making some noise...This on top of some other signs lately that I was gonna be in the clutch market....Not too much $$ fix...and I plan on going to a LS7 which will be a bit of a performance upgrade as well.
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If the car's been taken care of then it really shouldn't be an issue. If you're putting that many miles on it anyway's i'd recommend a higher mileage car just so you don't get wrecked financially wise on it. You pay 22k for a nice low mileage and have it for 4 years it's got over 100k. you buy the other for i'm assuming 18k with 80k miles on it and you don't take as much of a bath on it.
#7
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This is a very true statement.
If you get one that has good OEM motor mounts, that's an indication of how it's been treated. Also, look at the rubber bushing on the differential snout for tears/disintegration.
If both of these items are o.k., you're probably looking at one with few, if any, clutch dumps.
You can save the motor mounts by adding a torque limiting cable to the left side of the engine, it's inexpensive and very effective.
The radiators probably have the worst record among the common items mentioned.
If you get one that has good OEM motor mounts, that's an indication of how it's been treated. Also, look at the rubber bushing on the differential snout for tears/disintegration.
If both of these items are o.k., you're probably looking at one with few, if any, clutch dumps.
You can save the motor mounts by adding a torque limiting cable to the left side of the engine, it's inexpensive and very effective.
The radiators probably have the worst record among the common items mentioned.
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#8
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This is a very true statement.
If you get one that has good OEM motor mounts, that's an indication of how it's been treated. Also, look at the rubber bushing on the differential snout for tears/disintegration.
If both of these items are o.k., you're probably looking at one with few, if any, clutch dumps.
You can save the motor mounts by adding a torque limiting cable to the left side of the engine, it's inexpensive and very effective.The radiators probably have the worst record among the common items mentioned.
If you get one that has good OEM motor mounts, that's an indication of how it's been treated. Also, look at the rubber bushing on the differential snout for tears/disintegration.
If both of these items are o.k., you're probably looking at one with few, if any, clutch dumps.
You can save the motor mounts by adding a torque limiting cable to the left side of the engine, it's inexpensive and very effective.The radiators probably have the worst record among the common items mentioned.
#9
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Been nursing my stock clutch...I have 95,xxx on the clock and noticed tonight that the throw-out bearing is making some noise...This on top of some other signs lately that I was gonna be in the clutch market....Not too much $$ fix...and I plan on going to a LS7 which will be a bit of a performance upgrade as well.
I replaced the tranny mount and that helped the rigidity of the car a ton. As others mentioned, my car was extremely well cared for (woman owned as a commuter; thus, the high miles) and therefore, I wasn't scared of it. I made a fantastic decision purchasing it and would honestly recommend you find one with a bit higher mileage in order to get the maintenance and cleanliness you want.
LAW
#10
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I bought mine in may with 82,000 on it , now i'm about to break 90,000 and no issues at all. my radio is goofy but works. Mine also had one owner who was in his 60's so you have to consider that too.
#11
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I have around 100,000 miles on my 04, I bought it with 88,000 miles on it. Still has the original clutch and diff, but the previous owner had the rear bushings done twice.
When i was looking I wanted one with 60,000 miles MAX, but the car was in good shape and the previous owner took good care of it, had full service records since new.
The car is still tight and drives great for the mileage. The only thing I think it needs is some motor mounts. As long as the car wasn't thrashed most of it's life, I wouldn't be to worried about a 100k+ mile car.
When i was looking I wanted one with 60,000 miles MAX, but the car was in good shape and the previous owner took good care of it, had full service records since new.
The car is still tight and drives great for the mileage. The only thing I think it needs is some motor mounts. As long as the car wasn't thrashed most of it's life, I wouldn't be to worried about a 100k+ mile car.
#12
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bought mine with 29k miles, but like others have said, you pay for the low miles, i paid 24k. i didn't mind too much because i was trading in a 08 tbss so my payments went down over 200$ a month for a vehicle with 7k less miles.
#13
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I bought mine 7 months ago with 1,380 miles on the clock for 30K. Certainly way too much for an '05, but it really is like a new car.
If I do decide to unload it in a few years I'm not sure how much of a hit I'll take on depreciation, but it won't be as much as the first owner did.
If you don't mind traveling(or getting it shipped to you), there are low mileage V's out there. I actually bought mine off e-bay from a Florida dealer who took my '09 Cobalt SS on trade. We did all of the paperwork though FedEx, then he put the car on a truck and sent it up my way. I met the driver a few miles from home with my Cobalt and we basically swapped keys. Years ago I never would've thought I'd buy a car sight unseen(Well, TONS of pics on e-bay), especially a 5 year old used car, but it turned out to be a great experience.
I actually bought my first new '08 Viper from Georgia as well. Did the paperwork the same way and the dealer shipped the car up in an enclosed trailer. When the driver arrived I signed a few more papers and swapped keys with him(traded my '06 Viper on the new '08), and drove off in a new 9 mile '08 Viper. Another smooth car buying experience.
Then a few months later my local dealer totalled it, but they bought me another new '08, and that's another story...
***A quick check on e-bay shows 2 of them at a dealer in Akron, OH with miles in the 30K range.
If I do decide to unload it in a few years I'm not sure how much of a hit I'll take on depreciation, but it won't be as much as the first owner did.
If you don't mind traveling(or getting it shipped to you), there are low mileage V's out there. I actually bought mine off e-bay from a Florida dealer who took my '09 Cobalt SS on trade. We did all of the paperwork though FedEx, then he put the car on a truck and sent it up my way. I met the driver a few miles from home with my Cobalt and we basically swapped keys. Years ago I never would've thought I'd buy a car sight unseen(Well, TONS of pics on e-bay), especially a 5 year old used car, but it turned out to be a great experience.
I actually bought my first new '08 Viper from Georgia as well. Did the paperwork the same way and the dealer shipped the car up in an enclosed trailer. When the driver arrived I signed a few more papers and swapped keys with him(traded my '06 Viper on the new '08), and drove off in a new 9 mile '08 Viper. Another smooth car buying experience.
Then a few months later my local dealer totalled it, but they bought me another new '08, and that's another story...
***A quick check on e-bay shows 2 of them at a dealer in Akron, OH with miles in the 30K range.
Last edited by mhhamrhead; 01-01-2011 at 12:01 AM.
#18
I test drove two lower mileage 07s with prices around $30k and even talked myself into a car payment. But ultimately I couldn't do it and ended up getting a high miler for half the price.
102k on my 05. Bought it at the end of July 2010 with 97k, and a little bit of a Luxury CPO warranty left, which was unknown to me until I already agreed to buy it. The service history was pretty long with the usual suspects, and I made it longer at two dealers having things done under CPO, but they were mostly cosmetic. It also had Magnaflow, UUC shifter, recent clutch/slave, cross drilled rotors and recent pads and chromed factory wheels (they look good on Stealth Gray).
The car looks and drives very well, even though I found out it was hit and repaired. Carfax was clean. Carfax is worthless. But I'm happy with my purchase. I was supposed to buy it from a Cadillac Forum member and actually test drove the car as it was in MA and I'm in RI. But he traded it in the next day on an STS-V in PA. So I followed the car down and traded my 95 Fleetwood the next week and only paid a little extra but probably got that difference as trade-in on my Fleetwood (one of the rare cases dealer trade-in might beat private party). And I didn't have to go through the hassle of trying to sell a car like that privately, which would have been...interesting. Paid $15,400.
102k on my 05. Bought it at the end of July 2010 with 97k, and a little bit of a Luxury CPO warranty left, which was unknown to me until I already agreed to buy it. The service history was pretty long with the usual suspects, and I made it longer at two dealers having things done under CPO, but they were mostly cosmetic. It also had Magnaflow, UUC shifter, recent clutch/slave, cross drilled rotors and recent pads and chromed factory wheels (they look good on Stealth Gray).
The car looks and drives very well, even though I found out it was hit and repaired. Carfax was clean. Carfax is worthless. But I'm happy with my purchase. I was supposed to buy it from a Cadillac Forum member and actually test drove the car as it was in MA and I'm in RI. But he traded it in the next day on an STS-V in PA. So I followed the car down and traded my 95 Fleetwood the next week and only paid a little extra but probably got that difference as trade-in on my Fleetwood (one of the rare cases dealer trade-in might beat private party). And I didn't have to go through the hassle of trying to sell a car like that privately, which would have been...interesting. Paid $15,400.