Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

magnacharger pulley swap help

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Old 01-11-2011, 10:14 PM
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Default magnacharger pulley swap help

What pulley puller have you guys used on the v? I got a 6" 3 leg reversible puller but I can't seem to get it lined up with the radiator constantly getting in the way. Any suggestions on which ends of the legs or better yet pics of how it was done t help out.

Either I need another puller or I've just had a bit too much Jack Daniels tonight to figure it out haha
Old 01-12-2011, 01:20 PM
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nothing? My autoparts shop doesn't carry anything small than the 6" arms but I'm sure people are getting them off with 3" arms. I just need to know where to find a 3" pulley puller...please help. Thanks.
Old 01-12-2011, 02:20 PM
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Did you try posting the question here... http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...ies-forum-2004
Old 01-12-2011, 08:20 PM
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Alright, I had to take a short drive and shop around but got a better puller and have the 6rib 2.8 off and now I need tips on getting the Pulleyboys 2.7 8rib pressed on.

I tried to use my cheap old impact to press it on but its not working. I think there isn't enough torque plus the shaft is trying to spin as I'm trying to hold it.

Any ideas or tips?

The really sucky part about this is I may have to do this a few times if grinding is required to get it on there.
Old 01-12-2011, 10:26 PM
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Heat the pulley up. You can put it in the oven or do what I did. I hit it with a MAP torch and it was hot enough that it just slid on. Make sure you wear welding/leather gloves and have everything ready to go make sure the key way on the shaft is up and the key is in it. Line it up and slide it on.
Old 01-12-2011, 11:34 PM
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Ok if any one else reads this, heating it up works like a charm. I used a small propane torch and heated the inner diameter of the pulley and was actually able to press the new pulley on by hand. But have have run into yet another snag haha.

I read in another thread that the torque spec of the pulley nut should be 45lbs but the tension of the belt is not enough to hold the pulley in order to torque the nut. In response to the quote above...if the jack shaft has a "spot" for a wrench to hold it then this job would be a snap but I haven't found one. I'm so close to having this job completed and yet just can't quite finish.

On a side note it appears at this point (unless it changes after getting to the torque spec of the nut) that the pulley boys 2.7 is going to work on my maggie w/o grinding. From what I've read, this should gain me .5 to 1psi. This in addition to the 8" balancer should more than make up for any psi drop I get from the headers/cam right?
Old 01-13-2011, 06:27 AM
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The nut I had was basically a large lock nut. No nylon but it the nut was slightly "squished" at one end. I hit it with the impact and its been fine ever since.
Old 01-13-2011, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by raven154
The nut I had was basically a large lock nut. No nylon but it the nut was slightly "squished" at one end. I hit it with the impact and its been fine ever since.
Yeah, my nut is the same. I was just being cautious due to my weak impact and week harbor freight compressor. I may try a rubber strap on the shaft in addition to the belt tension to get the 45ft/lbs.

That does ease my mind a bit, though. I keep picturing and belt and pulley going flying through my engine compartment.
Old 01-13-2011, 10:28 AM
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do you have your ECS tensioner already? I ordered one last week and was wondering about the shipping time? havent heard anything back from ECS regarding a time frame yet
Old 01-13-2011, 11:57 AM
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once that pulley cools it aint going no where..just impact the nut on and call it a day
Old 01-13-2011, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonk
do you have your ECS tensioner already? I ordered one last week and was wondering about the shipping time? havent heard anything back from ECS regarding a time frame yet
Got my whole 8rib kit off this forum used. Guess your not interested in the maggie HD tensioner anymore then? lol.

We'll see how it works after the tune. I was surprised that it didn't feel as though it had as much tension (I didn't test it though) as the maggie hd that I just took off but everyone swears by them so we shall see.
Old 01-13-2011, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by punishmentcycle
once that pulley cools it aint going no where..just impact the nut on and call it a day
Thanks. Sounds like the concensus is that I'm just worrying too much about it loosening and coming off.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Old 01-13-2011, 12:23 PM
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yeah sorry about that, but when I threw my belt last week, I pm'd you, and then just went with the ECS, hadnt even looked at my pm box till now.
Old 01-13-2011, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonk
yeah sorry about that, but when I threw my belt last week, I pm'd you, and then just went with the ECS, hadnt even looked at my pm box till now.
No problem, I was out of town for the weekend.
Old 01-13-2011, 09:38 PM
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Well since I wasn't able to find a how-to and kinda stumbled a few times during the process, I'm going to spell it out here:

1.) Remove the nut holding the jackshaft pulley on while the belt is still on and holding the pulley under tension.
2.) Remove the belt from the pulley by releasing cranking on the tensioner (either a 15mm or in my case with the ECS a 1/2" breaker bar)
3.) Use a small 3" pulley puller with 3 short legs to pull the pulley from the jackshaft (need to be short or the radiator will be in the way, also have someone lend a hand to pry the radiator hose out of the way) Also, be aware that the shaft a pulley are key so keep that in mind as you don't want to drop it as you remove the pulley. GO SLOW.
4.) I used a 2.7 8rib pulley from pulley boys and was did not need to grind on the housing or pulley (you may not be so lucky).
5.) Although I'm going to an 8rib and using the ECS tensioner, for added peace of mind I sand/air blasted the inside of the pulley just to roughen it up and take the shine off in hopes that there is no way I'll have any belt slippage.
6.) Turn the keyway on the shaft up to the 12 o'clock position and place the key in the slot
7.) Heat up the replacement pulley. I used a small propane torch to heat the inner diameter and keyway while wearing leather gloves. Using this technique I was able to press it on by hand with a bit of force after lining the pulley up with the key, again don't drop it. If this doesn't work you may need to get creative and place a large socket or block of wood with a hole over the pulley and persuade it nicely lol.
8.) Ensure the pulley is fully seated and then wrap a belt wrench around the pulley to hold it tight as you retorque the bolt to 45ft/lbs.
9.) Line the belt back up and reposition it.
Old 01-18-2011, 08:42 PM
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Nlpy8b,

Regarding your ecs tensioner, did yours come with a bolt to secure the pulley to the tensioner? I font my setup today, but it didn't come with a bolt to put the pulley on, and neither the factory or Maggie pulley bolts work??? Any help?
Old 08-14-2011, 09:11 AM
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How much Boost Drop should I expect when removing the stock manifolds, and going to Longtubes W/high flows and X pipe?
Old 08-14-2011, 11:29 AM
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1-2 lbs. Of boost but more airflow.
Old 08-14-2011, 11:53 AM
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Any idea if the Header added power will make up the difference on the boost lose?



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