JimmiB

I have not heard good things about the boost a pump when installing a Maggie is there suggestions for stock fuel pump replacement.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Contact Lonnies performance, I just ordered a racetronix 255 kit with hotwire kit, good to 525-550rwhp, its a stock replacement that drop in the stock bucket. Only catch is the cradle has to be dropped to get to the tank. About a 4 hr job with a lift. Onl runs about 200 bucks too........boost a pumps scare me.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

deedub and I have an external solution installed - in-line Walbro 255 plumbed in before the fuel filter tucked in next to the cradle. My fuel curve is awesome and I'm putting down 498/486 with no issues thus far.

This saves 8 hours of shop charged labor. If you're a DIY'er the in-tank is a great option, but expensive if you're running it through a shop.

I know a couple of folks have F-bodied their V's backseat by cutting an access hole too... I considered this for about 8 seconds until I looked in the mirror and realized i had the wrong hair-cut for such a mod.

Your call... you have a few options. I felt the same way... not a chance in hell I was going to overvolt my pump and sign off on reliability.

In other news... I have to magnavolts in my garage. Will be going up on the F/S post when I get all the driveline pulled out.

GH

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

^^^ So what did you do with the intank, just unhook the electrical? was looking into this route too.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

Nope... still live.

DMM

Did your stock pump take a crap? The stock pump is more than adequate in most cases...what are your goals? I am maggied at 487 whp with the stock pump and the POS Magnaboost removed, and it is still a tad rich.

I have heard from a lot of people that the stocker is pretty stout, and more reliable than a 255.

If you really want a 255, TR has a kit that includes an upgraded harness/relay and in tank pump just for the CTS-V that runs about $150.00.

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

Interesting, I was wondering about that with an in-line, someone told me it would defeat the purpose, that the inline would still be limited to the in-tank.
If you are living proof that it works I may just go that route, untill I have the need to drop the craddle, then I'd go with an in-tank.
It was that or go with a Kenne bell BAP, but would feel better with an in-line pump forsure.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

Inline works fine... now that I'm dropping the cradle I've been thinking about dropping the tank too and replacing the pump with an in-tank if i do that I can remove all of the kit and sell it off to some needy soul.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Stock fuel system is pretty stout IMo if im making 500/510 on a stock fuel system.

A walboro 255 pump is the most used fuel pump made so i wouldnt question its reliablity. Its when people start throwing more power at them with boost a pumps and such that kill them, and people who run tanks to empty before refilling and let the pumps get overheated.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, the Walbro 255 is a good pump and reasonable price. It's a little noisy compared to oem, but nothing like some of the aftermarket external units! If you do inline, use some rubber isolators or something to keep the noise down. Not a bad sound, per se, but just something I don't want to hear.

I have a Walbro 255 in my Galant VR4 (it's at ~450 crank hp) and it was able to be mounted on the oem fuel pump bracket, but I have not seen the V unit, so not sure how easy it would be, but can't be too bad. I personally would put a hatch type thing on the floorboard for pump-tank access, just as long as it's not half aced. There is a still a lot more that this 255 pump can fulfill, but that's just the power I am happy with; I would not hesitate putting it on a 600 hp engine, except:

One thing you may want to consider is an adjustable aftermarket fuel pressure regulator if you go the 255 route. Least with the VR-4 it's easy to "overrun" the stock FPR and cause a rich condition. However, with the turbo (or a S/Cd, NOS, high compression), it's probably a good thing to be rich, rather than lean! Still, I changed it to an aeromotive FPR and am happy.

deedubb

iTrader: (9)

The inline works fine....had mine for almost a year now with no issues and never starved for fuel and been running E85 the whole time.

MIAdragon

iTrader: (6)

What setup did you go with?

deedubb

iTrader: (9)

Its just a standard walbro inline 255. Here is some more info when I did the E85 conversion:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...maggied-v.html

GulfM3

iTrader: (14)

What kind of HP are people supporting with an inline walbro? I've been using my magnavolt on the stock pump for the last 20k miles without an issue, but now that I'm making 570rwhp the fuel pump is maxed. If an inline 225 would get me to 600+ I would throw one on. I'm not a fan of butchering my pump bucket to squeeze a twin in tank setup.

deedubb

iTrader: (9)

Good question and I'm not entirely sure on the upper limits of my setup. I opted for the inline when my magnavolt crapped out on me (and i've heard it's quite often that they die). I too didn't want to go through the headache to drop the tank.

GulfM3

iTrader: (14)

I too have heard that the magnavolts are problematic, but Mine is still working fine so until she blows I'll run it. When/if it does crap out they are simple to bypass so I wont be stuck on the side of the road.

I read through your other post on the inline pump install, you stated E85 takes about 30% more fuel for the same power as gas. If that's true your inline pump setup making 500hp on E85 should be good for about 650hp on regular gas, I'm going to give it a shot.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Curious about this magnavolt thing...Is it basically a relay that allows direct battery power to the pump, giving it full voltage? If so, I don't see how it would be bad, per se, provided the oem pump can handle the flow and not get too hot (wear) from the increased voltage and 'work'...

I did this on the VR-4 (added a relay, and my battery is in the trunk, close to the pump), in addition to the 255 and the FPR and the fuel system works great!

Another option would be to increase the ground wire size/shorten length right from the pump (if practical with in-tank, or do it on the inline pump) and be sure you have a clean (bare metal on chassis), tight connection to the 'frame'. Can never have too many or too large grounds and it solves all sorts of mystery problems (when a car has insufficient or bad grounds).

raven154

iTrader: (14)

The magnavolt isn't just a relay, its an amp. It bumps up the voltage to more than what the car could make on its own.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

That's cool and interesting then. So, what does it bring it up to, like 18 or 24 vdc? Sounds like the oem pump can take that, although normally 12 vdc is only designed for maybe 15 vdc max, but who knows.

The relay, as you may be familiar with allows the full 12 (or 14 under charge) volts to the pump motor, whereas normally it may see 9-10 vdc.

For the heck of it, gonna check out this magnavolt for my own information on how it works, etc...Bet you could do something similar for cheap, if you can source the parts and whatnot, although IMO it still sounds like a band-aid approach and if I were to do some forced induction, I would personally change the pump, etc....Nothing worse than going lean, as far as boom!

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Thats great but the shitty thing with that is, when the magnavolt goes you wont know therefore you wont be gettign the fuel the computer thinks it is, so the same time you repalce that magnavolt, you could very well be replacing the motor. Hence why Ill never use one unless i know the pump will support the fuel supply without the boost a pump.