100K around the corner and im not talking about money
#1
Staging Lane
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100K around the corner and im not talking about money
So I've been lurking around the forum for a little over a year now asking questions here and there but haven't done anything to my car other than a K&N Air filter and stainless braided brake lines. I've owned my V for about a year and a half now and i just dont get that same feeling when i floor it in 2nd at 4,000 RPMs, it just doesnt feel fast anymore.
So, I'm thinking about doing some things finally. I should be hitting 100,000Mi in the next 3-4 months and I'm trying to get a game plan together. Step one will be trans and rear fluids, cheap and quick and it could be done in my driveway on a saturday. Step two however will be quite a big step because I'm just gonna get everything done in one sitting. I'm thinking cam, valve springs, pushrods, OBX headers, LS7 clutch, short shifter, and a CIA.
Here's where i need everyones help.
1) I live just outside greensboro, NC. Who is a good tuner to get step two done at? I dont mind driving to raliegh or charolette, even some places in VA wouldn't be too bad.
2) this is not my daily driver but it is never going to be strictly a track car. It's more like my friday night going to dinner car so i want it to be a beast and dont really care about driveability but i have to be able to get grandma in the passenger seat with out her complaining (she refuses to get in my Camaro). What kind of cam do you guys recomend?
3) What CIA do I get?
4) everything listed above is for power, nothing for protection, should i get new motor mounts or any other bushings?
I definitly going OBX on the headers since they are sooo much cheaper and I'm gonna try to sift through some old threads on this forum cause i know there's some good homemade short shifters for a hundred or less. And just for sh*ts and giggles what do you think i will be paying for all this and what do you think I'll see on the dyno.
Any sugestions will be appreciated!
So, I'm thinking about doing some things finally. I should be hitting 100,000Mi in the next 3-4 months and I'm trying to get a game plan together. Step one will be trans and rear fluids, cheap and quick and it could be done in my driveway on a saturday. Step two however will be quite a big step because I'm just gonna get everything done in one sitting. I'm thinking cam, valve springs, pushrods, OBX headers, LS7 clutch, short shifter, and a CIA.
Here's where i need everyones help.
1) I live just outside greensboro, NC. Who is a good tuner to get step two done at? I dont mind driving to raliegh or charolette, even some places in VA wouldn't be too bad.
2) this is not my daily driver but it is never going to be strictly a track car. It's more like my friday night going to dinner car so i want it to be a beast and dont really care about driveability but i have to be able to get grandma in the passenger seat with out her complaining (she refuses to get in my Camaro). What kind of cam do you guys recomend?
3) What CIA do I get?
4) everything listed above is for power, nothing for protection, should i get new motor mounts or any other bushings?
I definitly going OBX on the headers since they are sooo much cheaper and I'm gonna try to sift through some old threads on this forum cause i know there's some good homemade short shifters for a hundred or less. And just for sh*ts and giggles what do you think i will be paying for all this and what do you think I'll see on the dyno.
Any sugestions will be appreciated!
#2
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Hey there fellow V owner!
I am located in the Raleigh area, I own a 04 Raven V and work for RPM motorsports in Garner NC. I am well versed in the V cars, and we do a lot of performance work and tuning on them.
Get ahold of me if you need anything.
My V started with air intake, Kooks headers, clutch and a tune, netted me 385 rwhp. A better shifter, motor and trans mounts along with a custom tune are some of the best initial mods to do.
I can also take you on test drive of my V with the new 402 engine.
Chris
Our shop number is
RPM Motorsports
919-661-7947
I am located in the Raleigh area, I own a 04 Raven V and work for RPM motorsports in Garner NC. I am well versed in the V cars, and we do a lot of performance work and tuning on them.
Get ahold of me if you need anything.
My V started with air intake, Kooks headers, clutch and a tune, netted me 385 rwhp. A better shifter, motor and trans mounts along with a custom tune are some of the best initial mods to do.
I can also take you on test drive of my V with the new 402 engine.
Chris
Our shop number is
RPM Motorsports
919-661-7947
#3
Staging Lane
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I think i found you guys last spring via google, I forgot who i talked to but the said around 100,000 miles my water pump will be ready to replace and thats an ideal time to do the cam job. We'll be in touch, but i am still interested in other opinions on everything, Keep 'em coming guys.
#4
3) i have the Lingenfelter CAI. if i were to do it all over i would just cut out the bottom of the stock air box+ pull the rubber snorkle in the grille+ add the 3.5 AL tube for bling.. The stock plastic intake tube already flows more air then a 78TB will use... so the CAI i have is more for under hood bling then any power.. the intake side of a V is not very restrictive.
4) LT headers need to be removed to replace the MM so.. replace them now.. w/ 100k im sure they are shot.. im not a believer in the need for a aftermarket tranny mount.. i have only seen 1 failure on the forums... I also am on my stock rear bushing b/c pinion slop was built into the car for a reason
4) LT headers need to be removed to replace the MM so.. replace them now.. w/ 100k im sure they are shot.. im not a believer in the need for a aftermarket tranny mount.. i have only seen 1 failure on the forums... I also am on my stock rear bushing b/c pinion slop was built into the car for a reason
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Here's where i need everyones help.
1) I live just outside greensboro, NC. Who is a good tuner to get step two done at? I dont mind driving to raliegh or charolette, even some places in VA wouldn't be too bad.
2) this is not my daily driver but it is never going to be strictly a track car. It's more like my friday night going to dinner car so i want it to be a beast and dont really care about driveability but i have to be able to get grandma in the passenger seat with out her complaining (she refuses to get in my Camaro). What kind of cam do you guys recomend?
3) What CIA do I get?
4) everything listed above is for power, nothing for protection, should i get new motor mounts or any other bushings?
I definitly going OBX on the headers since they are sooo much cheaper and I'm gonna try to sift through some old threads on this forum cause i know there's some good homemade short shifters for a hundred or less. And just for sh*ts and giggles what do you think i will be paying for all this and what do you think I'll see on the dyno.
Any sugestions will be appreciated!
1) I live just outside greensboro, NC. Who is a good tuner to get step two done at? I dont mind driving to raliegh or charolette, even some places in VA wouldn't be too bad.
2) this is not my daily driver but it is never going to be strictly a track car. It's more like my friday night going to dinner car so i want it to be a beast and dont really care about driveability but i have to be able to get grandma in the passenger seat with out her complaining (she refuses to get in my Camaro). What kind of cam do you guys recomend?
3) What CIA do I get?
4) everything listed above is for power, nothing for protection, should i get new motor mounts or any other bushings?
I definitly going OBX on the headers since they are sooo much cheaper and I'm gonna try to sift through some old threads on this forum cause i know there's some good homemade short shifters for a hundred or less. And just for sh*ts and giggles what do you think i will be paying for all this and what do you think I'll see on the dyno.
Any sugestions will be appreciated!
3. As shady said make your own if you must. A hot air intake is for looks.
4. I'd absolutely go new motor mounts and diff bushing. If money allows then do the trans mount as well but I agree with shady again its not something that will make a huge difference like MM's or diff bushing will.
#6
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RPM in Garner or Heintz Racing in Mooresville are both good choices. Both have techs familiar with V1 and V2 cars.
Here's a couple of cost-effective mods to consider..
- If your current motor mounts are still good, you might also consider a torque limiting cable on the driver's side instead of aftermarket motor mounts. This is a quite effective solution and is durable as well. Use 3/16 or 1/4" stainless steel cable and aluminum crimp ferrules, which are available at better building supply houses. Leave about 1/4" slack in the cable.
- The transmission mount can be removed and the voids filled with polyurethane available from Grainger Industrial Supply. Make sure that the mount has all dirt and oil residue removed prior to pouring the compound.
The LPE CAI baffle can be made to seal to the hood and fender quite well with very little effort. It also comes with a K&N RF-1040 filter (which may be overkill on a bolt-on 5.7 or 6.0). Since you're staying at the stock displacement, you can retain the stock "squeeze tube" ductwork if so desired.
Attached is a photo of the LPE as installed.
Here's a couple of cost-effective mods to consider..
- If your current motor mounts are still good, you might also consider a torque limiting cable on the driver's side instead of aftermarket motor mounts. This is a quite effective solution and is durable as well. Use 3/16 or 1/4" stainless steel cable and aluminum crimp ferrules, which are available at better building supply houses. Leave about 1/4" slack in the cable.
- The transmission mount can be removed and the voids filled with polyurethane available from Grainger Industrial Supply. Make sure that the mount has all dirt and oil residue removed prior to pouring the compound.
The LPE CAI baffle can be made to seal to the hood and fender quite well with very little effort. It also comes with a K&N RF-1040 filter (which may be overkill on a bolt-on 5.7 or 6.0). Since you're staying at the stock displacement, you can retain the stock "squeeze tube" ductwork if so desired.
Attached is a photo of the LPE as installed.
Last edited by scatillac; 11-10-2011 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Add pic
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3) i have the Lingenfelter CAI. if i were to do it all over i would just cut out the bottom of the stock air box+ pull the rubber snorkle in the grille+ add the 3.5 AL tube for bling.. The stock plastic intake tube already flows more air then a 78TB will use... so the CAI i have is more for under hood bling then any power.. the intake side of a V is not very restrictive.
4) LT headers need to be removed to replace the MM so.. replace them now.. w/ 100k im sure they are shot.. im not a believer in the need for a aftermarket tranny mount.. i have only seen 1 failure on the forums... I also am on my stock rear bushing b/c pinion slop was built into the car for a reason
4) LT headers need to be removed to replace the MM so.. replace them now.. w/ 100k im sure they are shot.. im not a believer in the need for a aftermarket tranny mount.. i have only seen 1 failure on the forums... I also am on my stock rear bushing b/c pinion slop was built into the car for a reason
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#8
Staging Lane
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I do have what i feel is excessive play in the shifter, about 3/4" side to side and about 1/8" up and down but i dont hink my trans mount is too terrible. I do feel like i will ba adding motor mounts to the list since if i let off the gas abruptly under heavy acceleration i get the slam of my motor dropping. It doesn't feel catastrophic or even scarry yet but i know its coming.