04-07 cts-v clutch replacement
03-25-2012, 11:40 PM
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04-07 cts-v clutch replacement Let me start by saying this clutch replacement was one of the worst i've done. This is partly because of the lack of information available. I hope that this thread will help others in the future.
Like most, I went with an ls7 assembly. I purchased it from Lindsay Cadillac. If you purchase from Lindsay Cadillac, you should know that it does not come with an alignment tool, or new bolts. You will need to purchase an alignment tool online, or at your local parts store. I purchased mine from advance auto parts. It is a 26 spline, 1.125" diameter tool, and it was $2.
As for the bolts to hold the assembly together.... There is some ambiguity as to whether the pressure plate or flywheel bolts are "torque-to-yield" or not. I didn't want to risk it, so i purchased new ones. Neither the chevy nor cadillac dealer could verify if the bolts are torque to yeild or not. Lindsay Cadillac claims you can reuse your ls6 pressure plate and flywheel bolts for both oem replacement and ls7 swap.
If you choose to buy new from a chevy dealer, like i did, you can purchase them for under $40 The part numbers are:
Flywheel: 11569956 qty 6
Pressure Plate: 12561465 qty 6
Step 1: Remove the shifter, and exhaust. unbolt the shifter before getting dirty. To remove the shifter ****, you'll need to put your car in reverse, continue to push foward and pull up. It's a pain, so it may take a few tries. Once removed, pry the rear of the shifter trim up, and remove the shift boot and foam insulating pad. There will be two shiny 10mm bolts holding the assembly to the body. Remove these. pics and more info here: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...ter/index.html
Step 2: Remove the strut rod, and engine cover. You'll need to get to bolts one and two at the bell housing from the top of the engine.
Uploaded with ImageShack.usThese are 13mm, IIRC. Invest in some ratchet wrenches!!! I used regular hand wrenches and it was a pain.
Step 3: remove catback. it has a bunch of hangers and is held up with 4 bolts. Pics and more info can be seen in the link in step 2. Tip: squirt the rubber hangers with some lube, they'll slide off 10x easier.
Step 4: Mark the driveshaft on each end and remove it. Driveshafts are installed and balanced, be sure to reinstall in the same orientation. You can remove from the guibo bolts from one end, and the other end requires an 8mm allen wrench.
Step 5: unhook the slave cylinder. This is pretty self explanatory. just remove the clip on the line, and pull apart.
Step 6: remove the shifter. There are different ways of doing this. Mine already had the rivets drilled out. If you haven't drilled them out, i suggest doing it now, because you'll need to if you ever install a different shifter. Once you drill the two rivets out, unbolt the shifter, and remove. You'll need to purchase two 1/4" by 1" long bolts, lock washers and nuts to replace the rivets you drilled out. See the link in step 1.
Step 7: Remove the trans cross member. This is easy, it's 4 bolts, two nuts, and two torque screws. Dont forget to remove the trans wiring harness from the trans, so you can completely remove the trans, as in the next step.
Step 8: remove the transmission. Do this by removing the bolts from the trans to the the bellhousing. I can't recall how many there are, but they are 15mm. Once removed, pull out the trans. The slave will come with it.
Step 9: remove the remaining 13mm bolts from the bell housing and remove the bell housing. I do not believe removing the starter is necessary, but I did anyways.
Step 10: remove clutch and/or flywheel.
Step 11: install new flywheel: Torque in a star pattern (like a wheel) and do this in 3 increments: 15lb-ft, 37lb-ft, 74lb-ft. (as per chevy dealer)
Step 12: install the clutch: Torque in a star pattern (like a wheel) and do this in increments. the dealer did not specify, but the final torque is 52lb-ft.
Step 13: install new slave cylinder. If using an ls7 slave, you can remove the bleeder screw, and install the ls6 slave bleeder screw. It is long enough to reach outside of the bell housing, as opposed to the ls7 which is not. Most people recommend a remote bleeder though.
Step 14: reinstall the trans bell housing. Install all of the 13mm you can from the bottom, then go back on top of the engine and install the remaining two.
Step 15: install the transmission. I had to jack up the front of the motor slightly. This made a big difference. Once "stabbed", install the 15mm bolts. Tip: apply a small amount of grease on the input shaft and splines
Step 16: Bleed the clutch. I suggest doing this before reinstalling the trans crossmember, so you have the additional room to bleed, and twist around the master to slave cylinder line, to assist in removing all the air pockets.
Step 17: install the cross member, driveshaft, exhaust, etc.
Step 18: you're done!
Comments: I should note that my tranmission was HORRIBLY stuck on the car, and it only had 40k on it. i had to pry it off, it was a bear. You may have to remove the trans and bell housing as one, then separate the two... as there is an open slot you can use for prying at the bottom of the bell housing. Also, i apologize for the lack of pics...but this swap was miserable, and I wasn't concerned with taking pics at the time.
Please let me know if there is anything I forgot, lets try to make this a good thread for future clutch swaps.
Also, stabbing the trans was a giant pain as well.... it took a lot of finesse to get it in. I hope your car is easier to do than mine...and also that you're not doing this on your garage floor like i was
Like most, I went with an ls7 assembly. I purchased it from Lindsay Cadillac. If you purchase from Lindsay Cadillac, you should know that it does not come with an alignment tool, or new bolts. You will need to purchase an alignment tool online, or at your local parts store. I purchased mine from advance auto parts. It is a 26 spline, 1.125" diameter tool, and it was $2.
As for the bolts to hold the assembly together.... There is some ambiguity as to whether the pressure plate or flywheel bolts are "torque-to-yield" or not. I didn't want to risk it, so i purchased new ones. Neither the chevy nor cadillac dealer could verify if the bolts are torque to yeild or not. Lindsay Cadillac claims you can reuse your ls6 pressure plate and flywheel bolts for both oem replacement and ls7 swap.
If you choose to buy new from a chevy dealer, like i did, you can purchase them for under $40 The part numbers are:
Flywheel: 11569956 qty 6
Pressure Plate: 12561465 qty 6
Step 1: Remove the shifter, and exhaust. unbolt the shifter before getting dirty. To remove the shifter ****, you'll need to put your car in reverse, continue to push foward and pull up. It's a pain, so it may take a few tries. Once removed, pry the rear of the shifter trim up, and remove the shift boot and foam insulating pad. There will be two shiny 10mm bolts holding the assembly to the body. Remove these. pics and more info here: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...ter/index.html
Step 2: Remove the strut rod, and engine cover. You'll need to get to bolts one and two at the bell housing from the top of the engine.
Uploaded with ImageShack.usThese are 13mm, IIRC. Invest in some ratchet wrenches!!! I used regular hand wrenches and it was a pain.
Step 3: remove catback. it has a bunch of hangers and is held up with 4 bolts. Pics and more info can be seen in the link in step 2. Tip: squirt the rubber hangers with some lube, they'll slide off 10x easier.
Step 4: Mark the driveshaft on each end and remove it. Driveshafts are installed and balanced, be sure to reinstall in the same orientation. You can remove from the guibo bolts from one end, and the other end requires an 8mm allen wrench.
Step 5: unhook the slave cylinder. This is pretty self explanatory. just remove the clip on the line, and pull apart.
Step 6: remove the shifter. There are different ways of doing this. Mine already had the rivets drilled out. If you haven't drilled them out, i suggest doing it now, because you'll need to if you ever install a different shifter. Once you drill the two rivets out, unbolt the shifter, and remove. You'll need to purchase two 1/4" by 1" long bolts, lock washers and nuts to replace the rivets you drilled out. See the link in step 1.
Step 7: Remove the trans cross member. This is easy, it's 4 bolts, two nuts, and two torque screws. Dont forget to remove the trans wiring harness from the trans, so you can completely remove the trans, as in the next step.
Step 8: remove the transmission. Do this by removing the bolts from the trans to the the bellhousing. I can't recall how many there are, but they are 15mm. Once removed, pull out the trans. The slave will come with it.
Step 9: remove the remaining 13mm bolts from the bell housing and remove the bell housing. I do not believe removing the starter is necessary, but I did anyways.
Step 10: remove clutch and/or flywheel.
Step 11: install new flywheel: Torque in a star pattern (like a wheel) and do this in 3 increments: 15lb-ft, 37lb-ft, 74lb-ft. (as per chevy dealer)
Step 12: install the clutch: Torque in a star pattern (like a wheel) and do this in increments. the dealer did not specify, but the final torque is 52lb-ft.
Step 13: install new slave cylinder. If using an ls7 slave, you can remove the bleeder screw, and install the ls6 slave bleeder screw. It is long enough to reach outside of the bell housing, as opposed to the ls7 which is not. Most people recommend a remote bleeder though.
Step 14: reinstall the trans bell housing. Install all of the 13mm you can from the bottom, then go back on top of the engine and install the remaining two.
Step 15: install the transmission. I had to jack up the front of the motor slightly. This made a big difference. Once "stabbed", install the 15mm bolts. Tip: apply a small amount of grease on the input shaft and splines
Step 16: Bleed the clutch. I suggest doing this before reinstalling the trans crossmember, so you have the additional room to bleed, and twist around the master to slave cylinder line, to assist in removing all the air pockets.
Step 17: install the cross member, driveshaft, exhaust, etc.
Step 18: you're done!
Comments: I should note that my tranmission was HORRIBLY stuck on the car, and it only had 40k on it. i had to pry it off, it was a bear. You may have to remove the trans and bell housing as one, then separate the two... as there is an open slot you can use for prying at the bottom of the bell housing. Also, i apologize for the lack of pics...but this swap was miserable, and I wasn't concerned with taking pics at the time.
Please let me know if there is anything I forgot, lets try to make this a good thread for future clutch swaps.
Also, stabbing the trans was a giant pain as well.... it took a lot of finesse to get it in. I hope your car is easier to do than mine...and also that you're not doing this on your garage floor like i was
03-26-2012, 05:06 AM
#3
When it comes to separating the transmission from the bell housing, it's difficult because of the weight resting on the pins and input shaft. The pry opening is useless unless the transmission is properly supported--all you'll do is mar the aluminum.
Next time, I recommend loosening all of the bolts and then giving the clutch pedal a vicious kick. It'll back the transmission out about 1/2 inch if you do it right.
Next time, I recommend loosening all of the bolts and then giving the clutch pedal a vicious kick. It'll back the transmission out about 1/2 inch if you do it right.
03-26-2012, 09:48 AM
#5
Maybe I've just been lucky, but I've done it three times on this slave with no (apparent) damage. Thanks for the tip--I'll keep an eye on it.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 03-26-2012 at 09:59 AM.
03-26-2012, 11:44 AM
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03-27-2012, 05:00 AM
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Anyone have an opinion on an LS7 clutch vs. the ACT clutch... I am not real happy with the stiffness of the clutch of the travel distance and engagement of the ACT... Looking for something that will hold 5-600 rwhp but have more of a stock feel...
In my Twin Turbo GTO, I had a monster level 4 clutch and loved it...
Opinions on any of this?
In my Twin Turbo GTO, I had a monster level 4 clutch and loved it...
Opinions on any of this?
03-27-2012, 06:53 AM
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Anyone have an opinion on an LS7 clutch vs. the ACT clutch... I am not real happy with the stiffness of the clutch of the travel distance and engagement of the ACT... Looking for something that will hold 5-600 rwhp but have more of a stock feel...
In my Twin Turbo GTO, I had a monster level 4 clutch and loved it...
Opinions on any of this?
In my Twin Turbo GTO, I had a monster level 4 clutch and loved it...
Opinions on any of this?
03-27-2012, 12:11 PM
#13
Ya mine was more stubborn than Charlie Sheen holding onto to bags of coke
03-23-2018, 12:23 PM
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Helpful? Thanks for taking the time to make this thread!
Recently doing mine I found it was not easy doing my 05 CTS v compared to other LS cars. Pulling the trans was a MF. It seemed to be near impossible until I removed the rear two sub frame bolts and loosened the front two bolts and lowered the subframe about 1”. This seemed to make a world of difference. Hopefully it helps someone.
Recently doing mine I found it was not easy doing my 05 CTS v compared to other LS cars. Pulling the trans was a MF. It seemed to be near impossible until I removed the rear two sub frame bolts and loosened the front two bolts and lowered the subframe about 1”. This seemed to make a world of difference. Hopefully it helps someone.
03-24-2018, 08:27 AM
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FYI TTY bolts start with an initial torque and end with a certain degree rotation. Though in this case, replacing them is cheap insurance. When I did my LS7 clutch swap, I did it with ARP hardware.
