Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

How are you guys bleeding your slave with the remote bleeder? I'd expect it to be a solo job since the line is decently long to reach outside of the car. I searched through a bunch of threads but didn't find anything but how-to's for general bleeding procedure. I have absolutely no pedal pressure anymore since installing the clutch. (Worst experience of my life reinstalling the trans btw).

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I had a friend help.

He pumped on the pedal and I held the end of the bleeder in the reservoir.

Just kept recirculating the fluid until no bubbles.

MacLEAN

iTrader: (1)

I think it is still a two man job if you do not cut a hole in your floor.

What went wrong with the trans install?

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

Let me guess....the bell housing was a major bitch to get off, and the input shaft was hard to line up upon install? Lol, we all went through it man.

I've always used a helper when bleeding the clutch. Somebody with a decent left foot lol.

Which clutch did you go with?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

You can do it yourself, but you have to snake the bleeder under the car so it comes out under the driver's door. It's best if you have a partner so you can top off the reservoir at the same time.

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

I went LS7. Bellhousing came off no problem. As it turns out I had a Monster clutch I destroyed. Flywheel was charred with clutch material as was the PP. I think the reason I no longer had engagement is because the clutch disc surface was completely glazed over and no longer grabbed. I couldn't get the trans in to save my life. I had to stab the input shaft, checked over and over that the splines were engaged by working the trans and the output then drew the trans in with the bolts. Never had to do that with my F-body...ever it always slid right in. Alignment tool slid in no issues in every direction I rotated it and everything looked centered. Trans went right up to the bellhousing when I drew it in with the bolts too. I just hope my pilot isn't screwed.

In doing so I also kinked the line on my brand new LS7 slave and it ruptured causing a dribble of fluid to come out so I got stuck throwing the old one in (LS7 too). I think the old one is still good since I still had good pedal pressure. IF I have to, it looks possible, can I easily swap lines from slave to slave? Looks like it's just a clip that holds it onto the housing.

I'm a bit lacking in assistance so hopefully I can manage to either get someone to help or do something on my own (I doubt it).

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

Also, there's no foot involved with the clutch pedal yet. I have to push it in and lift it off the floor by hand. I've read through all the threads about how hard it was for some to bleed the system I just hope that mine bleeds ok and I can be done with this. Other than reinstalling the trans, this was extremely easy.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Just remember these steps:

crack-pedal down-close-lift
crack-pedal down-close-lift...
repeat until desire effect is achieved

No pumping necessary.

etcts-v

I did mine by myself with a Mity Vac, just snake the line right next to the master and you can fill and bleed at the same time.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ku=00947058000

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

I was able to pump the pedal for a couple minutes and got some pressure back. Pedal returns to its non-depressed position. I'll return to the traditional bleeding method tomorrow with a helper. I should be ok with this procedure.


Just in case, I did order a Mity-Vac from Amazon during my lunch hour. I'll have more use for it in the near furture for brakes and clutch in my F-body. The SPEC Stage 2 is slipping in that car, but it did last me 6 or so years.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Pretty much. It might take you 15-20 iterations until you get anywhere close. You'll know you're there when the pedal doesn't want to stay completely snug against the floor. At that point, leave the bleeder screwed tight and give it a couple of pumps to generate system pressure. Then do the bleed process a couple more times until you get a clean shot of fluid with no bubbles.

Next time, get yourself a power bleeder or Mity Vac (if you're trying to save money). You'll save yourself a ton of time that way.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

i usually just crack the bleeder, push the pedal, close the bleeder (it'll stick to the floor, of course), and pump the pedal up.

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

Sometimes I have to pump like 100 times after bleeding to get the pedal back. Just keep pumping.

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

That's probably how many times I had to pump it to get the pedal back. I just need to bleed the rest of the air out and test. The only thing I'm worried about is when I kinked the line on my new LS7 slave and threw the old one back on (LS7 also). There should be absolutely no reason why the old one isn't perfectly good, but I have the option of swapping lines from new to old and installing the new if it ever comes to it. I just don't want to go through reinstalling the trans again. Otherwise I have to issue taking it out again.

Mity-vac is on the way for the future or if I can't find anyone to help me bleed the system.

I also recommend a tranny jack. The next time I have to do this I will be buying the scissor type from Harbor Freight. Mating the trans to the bellhousing was f*cking ridiculous.

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

Car's done and moves under its own power. Everything seems good so I begin the break-in process aka a **** ton of driving. LS7 users weren't kidding, the clutch engages almost right off the floor after a fresh install. Should be good when it comes up a little after break-in.

Thanks to all for their input!

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

I use a Motive power bleeder. It pressurizes the system and supplies fresh fluid.

Pressurize the system, open bleeder, press the pedal about 1/2 way a couple times, close bleeder. All done.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I hear you on the Harbor Freight jack. After pulling the transmission out three times for the low clutch engagement issue (cause: over-torqued pressure plate bolts), I spent the $75, got the jack, and what was previously a two man, 4 hour job became a one man, one hour job.

Definitely give the Mity Vac a shot when you get it--if you can, do it after a drive when everything's hot. Based on my experience, you've probably got a TON of bubbles in the system that you don't know about. When you apply vacuum on the clutch fluid reservoir outlet and pump the pedal, you may see dozens of large bubbles and innumerable tiny bubbles that were previously too small to evacuate (i.e.: before applying vacuum) from the system shoot out.

The presence of those little bubbles made my car impossible to shift 3/4 of the way through my first dyno tuning session because the extreme heat expanded them. Never again.

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

a little late to reply, but if looking at the harbor freight jack, consider the trans jack right above the scissor lift, it looks more like a regular jack, but the trans table is tilt and roll adjustable to make lining things up much easier. (it is a bigger tool yo will have to store once done though)