RevShift Transmission Block Installed
06-23-2012, 08:40 PM
#1
RevShift Transmission Block Installed I completed the Revshift transmission block installation today. The following is a copy and paste from what I wrote on the Cadillac Forums. Figured my fellow members here would find it interesting.
Just got RevShift transmission mount installed. Now that I'm finished, I could probably repeat the installation in less than 10 minutes. Instructions:
Impressions: my transmission mount only has 24k miles on it, so it was in very good shape. However, there was a very clear difference between the feel of the car before and after the RevShift transmission block installation. The most obvious change was the fact that by raising the back end of the transmission slightly, more pressure was placed on the shifter plate and consequently, I noticed a mild decrease in shifter slop. It's slightly notchier now that it was before (Katech v2 short shifter + UUC bushings), which isn't appreciated, but doesn't affect my ability to shift. I also feel slightly more transmission vibration through the shifter and into the car, which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on. When combined with the Creative Steel differential bushing and block, there was a slight, additional reduction in the infamous parade clunk that we all hate. I presume that disengaging the clutch is creating a torque reversal that causes upward deflection in the transmission, which this block tries to counteract.
In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), but still represents a worthwhile upgrade over the OEM Cadillac transmission mount. I didn't have shifting problems due to a collapsed transmission mount, so I'm not the primary audience for this part. Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides. For those of you that suspect that your shifting problems are due to transmission misalignment, this upgrade is a no-brainer.
- Put car on jacks. Don't bother removing the exhaust or prepping your vehicle in any other way.
- Put hydraulic jack under back of transmission (forward of the transmission brace) and lift until vehicle is almost taken off the jack stands. That'll open the gap slightly.
- Lube the RevShift transmission block. Get under the car and use a normal hammer to get the front edge seated equally in the gap on both sides.
- Turn the hammer sideways and jam the head up past the transmission mount into the propeller flange. Now you have a lever. Push the handle of the hammer toward the front of the car, forcing the transmission block into the mount. You might have to re-seat the hammer a couple of times to get the right angle.
Impressions: my transmission mount only has 24k miles on it, so it was in very good shape. However, there was a very clear difference between the feel of the car before and after the RevShift transmission block installation. The most obvious change was the fact that by raising the back end of the transmission slightly, more pressure was placed on the shifter plate and consequently, I noticed a mild decrease in shifter slop. It's slightly notchier now that it was before (Katech v2 short shifter + UUC bushings), which isn't appreciated, but doesn't affect my ability to shift. I also feel slightly more transmission vibration through the shifter and into the car, which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on. When combined with the Creative Steel differential bushing and block, there was a slight, additional reduction in the infamous parade clunk that we all hate. I presume that disengaging the clutch is creating a torque reversal that causes upward deflection in the transmission, which this block tries to counteract.
In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), but still represents a worthwhile upgrade over the OEM Cadillac transmission mount. I didn't have shifting problems due to a collapsed transmission mount, so I'm not the primary audience for this part. Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides. For those of you that suspect that your shifting problems are due to transmission misalignment, this upgrade is a no-brainer.
06-23-2012, 10:54 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on.
In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), ...... Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides.
In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), ...... Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides.
And secondly, what do you mean by more notchy? By notchy do you mean a firmer shift, that's providing more feedback? Or do you mean that it feels like you're moving it along a smooth surface and then there's a "feel" as if you are plugging something in to a receptacle and there's the feel something kinda locking into place?
The shifter on my miata feels like you're literally moving things around in the gearbox, which I absolutely love. Feels like it's connected to a working machine, unlike the spongy shifter in the V.
Have you driven any other cars with a stick that you can compare what your "new" shifter feel is?
Just honestly curious what you mean by notchy. Notchy can mean a lot of things.
-meaty
06-24-2012, 06:21 AM
#6
And secondly, what do you mean by more notchy? By notchy do you mean a firmer shift, that's providing more feedback? Or do you mean that it feels like you're moving it along a smooth surface and then there's a "feel" as if you are plugging something in to a receptacle and there's the feel something kinda locking into place?
In a sense, I agree that it's cool to feel what's going on inside the transmission. However, it also means that you have to be more precise when changing gears since the shifter can no longer compensate for any minor mistakes on your end.
Put differently, a stock CTS-V will find 3rd gear for you, even if you move the shifter a little past 3rd (toward 1st or 5th) because the sloppy linkage can deflect a little to either side when it hits the edge of a slot. With a more precise shifter, if you hit the edge of a slot, you'll feel the impact and resistance and have to make up for it--in the blink of an eye--by guiding the shifter in the right direction and adding more muscle.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 06-24-2012 at 06:46 AM.
Trending Topics
06-24-2012, 08:34 AM
#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Winnipeg, mb
Posts: 789
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I could see it helping when the mount gets compressed. But my mount the rubber actually seperated from the metal. When i would go over bumps I could feel the shifter lift in my hand. I did and would still prefer a poly mount.
06-24-2012, 09:35 AM
#9
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think it is a lot easier to find gears on the stock shifter than the UUC one. But the UUC one "feels" better because there is less slop or sideways movement. It's still a crappy linkage though, so that feel is somewhat artificial and it definitely doesn't help you shift quickly.
06-24-2012, 09:52 AM
#10
I think it is a lot easier to find gears on the stock shifter than the UUC one. But the UUC one "feels" better because there is less slop or sideways movement. It's still a crappy linkage though, so that feel is somewhat artificial and it definitely doesn't help you shift quickly.
06-24-2012, 12:17 PM
#11
TECH Enthusiast
I've never once heard anyone say "Yeah, now my right arm is looking like Popeye's because I have this thing adjusted as low as it'll go!"
I can't imagine it being any different in the V.
Also, you can buy weighted gear shift *****... I imagine that would negate any kind of feeling of having to put "strength" behind your shift.
-RADEoN
06-25-2012, 02:26 PM
#13
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great write up Fuzzy, way easier than what I did!!
The insert made a huge difference in my ability to shift, my mount had collapsed almost completely, worth every penny.
The insert made a huge difference in my ability to shift, my mount had collapsed almost completely, worth every penny.
06-27-2012, 06:59 PM
#15
I installed this today with the tips from Fuzzy it went extremely smooth. I was able to pry it in without much issue.
I put the vehicle on the ground and shifted gears and it felt good real solid I was excited had just gotten out of an 11 hour shift had been up for over 24hours and went to bed. Woke up late and had to head back into work. I reversed out of my driveway and it felt great. I started driving put it in first... then second? Second? What the hell. Trying to get it into second gear while moving was extremely difficult and when you got it in it would vibrate horrifically unless i held it to the bottom left of the shifter gate with all my strength then it wouldn't vibrate. I said ok lets try 3rd and that was smooth like first. I then tried 4th and everytime you tried to put it in it sound like gears grinding it was terrible. I put it in 5th that was fine even 6th was ok.
Anyone have any ideas why this could be happening? I have the (custom short shifter) and am thinking of maybe adjusting that bottom bolt that hooks to the linkage. I know people have said sometimes if the nut is too tight or loose it can cause issues but does anyone else have any ideas?
I put the vehicle on the ground and shifted gears and it felt good real solid I was excited had just gotten out of an 11 hour shift had been up for over 24hours and went to bed. Woke up late and had to head back into work. I reversed out of my driveway and it felt great. I started driving put it in first... then second? Second? What the hell. Trying to get it into second gear while moving was extremely difficult and when you got it in it would vibrate horrifically unless i held it to the bottom left of the shifter gate with all my strength then it wouldn't vibrate. I said ok lets try 3rd and that was smooth like first. I then tried 4th and everytime you tried to put it in it sound like gears grinding it was terrible. I put it in 5th that was fine even 6th was ok.
Anyone have any ideas why this could be happening? I have the (custom short shifter) and am thinking of maybe adjusting that bottom bolt that hooks to the linkage. I know people have said sometimes if the nut is too tight or loose it can cause issues but does anyone else have any ideas?
06-28-2012, 09:29 AM
#18
*sigh*
07-03-2012, 11:37 AM
#20
Teching In
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I installed it and the awkwardness of getting in 1st and 2nd gear has been fixed.
So now I have constant shifting feeling for 1 to 6 gears
I did not expect this dramatic change but it happened
But also noise level is also increased. It feels like drivetrain is stick to the chassis.
So now I have constant shifting feeling for 1 to 6 gears
I did not expect this dramatic change but it happened
But also noise level is also increased. It feels like drivetrain is stick to the chassis.