DaveSRX

My installer just finished putting in a LS7 flywheel slave and clutch into my 04V. I ordered the kit from Luke at Lindsay. He bled all the air out of the system. He can not get the clutch to disengage. He thinks it feels like a distance issue. My understanding was that no spacer was needed since i used LS7 slave. Not sure what to do now. :-(

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Not being there, I would say the chances of Luke sending you the wrong part(s) is slim to none.

I hope you added a remote bleeder, because if you didn't you are probably going to after you check the slave.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

How many times did he bleed it? did he notice/mention any issues when installing the flywheel or slave/clutch? Did you reuse your old hardware (big no no)? If you did not purchase new flywheel and clutch plate bolts I can tell you that your issue is a flywheel bolt that is roughly 1/4" too long and will not properly torque the flywheel. Also the original GM bolts are 1 time Torque to yield bolts and should be replaced each time.

Bacon

Well if you are doing the diagnosis for your mechanic on the net, i would hope you split the cost of the job.

Ask him to pull the trans and measure your A and B dimensions (google it if you dont know what that means). If those dims are correct, then you have a bad/incorrect slave, bad master, or insufficiently bled clutch. If you didnt get a remote bleeder, put one in now and try again. With the LS7 slave, you shouldnt need a shim - it should be spot on.

Mn800r

^^^thats about it..

DaveSRX

I did not purchase new bolts. Luke at Lindsay said i could use the old ones.

JDB

iTrader: (2)

Are you saying that re-using bolts will make them too long? Or, are there different bolts required? If the latter, which bolts?

Dmax/04V

OEM bolts that were in use with the Dual mass OEM flywheel are longer than what you should be running with an aftermarket flywheel because the dual mass flywheel is extremely wide. Torque to yield bolts should only be used once, they are designed to deform and hold in that manner.

JDB

iTrader: (2)

So, what bolts are to be used? Too many people saying to not use OEM, without say what TO use.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

There are 2 problems. the OEM are 1/4 inch too long as you buy them. If you want the GM flywheel bolts you need to buy the ones for an LS1 or z06 C6 vette. Also the GM bolts are torque to yield and should not be used as they stretch once torqued. regardless the oem flywheel bolts are too long to properly torque the flywheel. make sure you purchase new shorter flywheel bolts, i think this should correct your issue..

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/330-2802/10002/-1
Here is what you need

raven154

iTrader: (14)

I used ARP bolts but many people use the stock bolts wether it be an F-body or a V. I cant even count how many people have reused the stock bolts. There is still debate whether or not the flywheel bolts are even torque to yeild or not. I wouldn't worry about the bolts being too long. If they where, either you would hear a rather unplesent sound as the rip the rear cover apart, or the unpleasent sound of the flywheel and pressure plate rattling around. The surface that the bolts touch is more or less the same thickness. The bolts go thought the face of the dual mass flywheel and bolt just the same as any other flywheel. You just have an extra 25 lbs of **** hanging of the front side of it. The main thing is to have the bolts torqued properly and in the correct pattern.

Like was said, the correct way to install any clutch is to measure. However, the LS7 swap is as simple as it gets. The V and the Vette share the same crank to transmission dimension so basically it's just like installing in a Vette (should be a bolt in with no measuring required)

I don't recall a single V needing to be shimmed when using LS7 parts. It is possible that you have a bad part but unlikely. It is a well documented fact that bleeding the air out of the V slave is a complete pain in the **** and is almost impossible (almost) but it is doable. My first vote is for air still in the system. I don't care that he said he bled it, I would almost bet money this is the culprit.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Ditto to the above.

If the bolts were to long the installer would/should have noticed.

OP doesn't say if there is a remote bleeder.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

I know for a fact the ctsv bolts will bottom out before torquing the ls9 katech flywheel. I had that problem. I am noy sure on the ls7 as I did not risk it and went with proper length ls1 bolts. Whether or not it is the main culprit I would still highly recommend spending the $30-50 dollars to replace hardware after you just spent $700 on a clutch.

see attached for "A" and "B" dimension measurements

DaveSRX

Couldnt i just use GM LS7 flywheel bolts?

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

Yes, they are one and the same as the LS1 bolts.

etcts-v

These are what I used:

Flywheel Bolts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LS2-LS6-...d58674&vxp=mtr

Pressure Plate: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-LS1-LS6-...31b7b0&vxp=mtr

DaveSRX

Guys thanks for all the replies. Clutch line coming out of the slave was kinked. All is good now. Loving the new flywheel and Revshift trans mount. Also did a shifter. Car is transformed!