Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

That darn vibration issue

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Old 03-13-2013, 02:26 PM
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Default That darn vibration issue

About to put the car on the road again and I know I have a vibration issue that's been haunting me forever...Seems like its most noticeable above 55 and just continues to get worse with increased speed. Does not matter if its neutral or in gear, its still there. Its not the rotors since it does not matter if I'm braking or not and they have been replaced after this started with brakemotives. Basically high speed---->shakes like a ****. Noticed this started after I curbed a wheel a while back on the front passenger side. The rim was all scuffed up so I realigned it---> Still there... Next I changed the rim--->still there. I have gotten an alignment done 2-3 times since, at NTB--->Still there. Kind of feel this eliminates the flywheel, driveshaft as the culprit. Since I have had the car in the garage on a flat surface for a while I decided to look closer at the wheel. Looking at them with the steering wheel straight it seems the front wheels look slightly like this " I----\" when they should be like this "I---I" Not that dramatic obviously. The lower control arm does not seem to be bent, however I don't have a new one to put it side by side.

It must be something in the suspension on that side for sure...Any ideas??? They have aligned my car at NTB almost a handful of times and they never said anything is wrong... What can it be in the suspension or should I just buy the whole damn right suspension and swap the eibach over.
Old 03-13-2013, 02:35 PM
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Here are the pics. Its slight but def seems to be present
Attached Thumbnails That darn vibration issue-wp_000135.jpg   That darn vibration issue-wp_000138.jpg  
Old 03-13-2013, 02:37 PM
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Negative camber is desired and will not cause vibrations. Provided that your camber and caster angles are the same on both sides of the car, I can't think of any other suspension related problems that would cause that problem.

Sounds like a flywheel or pressure plate imbalance.
Old 03-13-2013, 02:37 PM
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Are you able to see the alignment values on the rack... I'd ask to take a look... Bent wheel would be obvious maybe something in the suspension is bent
Old 03-13-2013, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Negative camber is desired and will not cause vibrations. Provided that your camber and caster angles are the same on both sides of the car, I can't think of any other suspension related problems that would cause that problem.

Sounds like a flywheel or pressure plate imbalance.
Not the flywheel or pressure plate. Those would be relative to engine rpm, not vehicle speed.

Originally Posted by Skidmarcx
Are you able to see the alignment values on the rack... I'd ask to take a look... Bent wheel would be obvious maybe something in the suspension is bent
I'd check the driveshaft, carrier bearing and possibly CV joints in the rear. Maybe a wheel bearing up front.

Also, you never mentioned it, is the vibration in the front or rear of the vehicle? Do you feel it through your steering wheel or your seat?

Edit: If it were suspension related, your alignment specs would have to be pretty far out of whack and the company would see it. Unless of course they're incompetent, which is always a possibility. Double check the alignment specs yourself.
Old 03-13-2013, 03:03 PM
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I'm just not understanding how it could be the flywheel or anything to do with the clutch...I get the stock turd is total crap but its always been crap. I plan to get it out by summer anyway; however, the vibration was not present at highway speed prior to the curb damage. Just not understanding how it could have anything to do with the clutch??? The curb would not destroy the clutch assuming my thinking is correct.

Skidmarcx I am leaning toward the suspension because I feel like negative camber or not, it should be the same "negativity" on both sides no? Mine almost looks straight on the drivers side and more negative on the passenger side. This is annoying as FK...guess I posted this cause I need to vent and maybe advice on what suspension components are more prone to bend...
Old 03-13-2013, 03:06 PM
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Where do you feel the vibration?

It won't be the clutch, that's dependent on engine speed, however it could most definitely be your driveshaft, carrier bearing or something like that.
Old 03-13-2013, 03:06 PM
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I also thought its the driveshaft for a while but why would it give out after curbing it??? Seems the problem is coming from the front and I feel it most in the steering wheel/entire front end
Old 03-13-2013, 03:09 PM
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From what I remember the carrier bearing on the driveshaft seems to be the thing to fail most often and is the sole reason people swap it out to begin with unless they snap it. Aside from the carried bearing is there anywhere else I should look for "wiggle" in the drive shaft?
Old 03-13-2013, 03:10 PM
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For a front end wobble, you have alignment that could be off, or anything rotating.

The simple fact is that even if something were bent, as long as your alignment was still in tolerable levels, you won't get a vibration.

Jack the front up and feel if your wheels have play top to bottom.
Old 03-13-2013, 03:16 PM
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Last time I had it jacked up "cause I replaced the lower control arm as well" followed by another alignment...the wheel had no movement at all "rock solid". I just feel that if something was bent they would also notice it by the fifth time they aligned it LOL. But then again with nothing to compare it to how would they know.
Old 03-13-2013, 03:26 PM
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Put a new hub bearing on the side where impact occurred.
Old 03-13-2013, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DMM
Put a new hub bearing on the side where impact occurred.
I'd go this route.
Old 03-13-2013, 03:57 PM
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Alignment off generally doesn't cause shimmying or shake.

Before doing big time repairs-

get all tires balanced- check.
i'm not sure if the rims are staggered on that vehicle but if you have had all tires balanced, and it is still shimmying- rotate tires from front to back and check- this dictates whether the problem is from bent rim(s)/out of balance tire(s).

If you still have the problem after having the tires balanced, as well as rotating wheels from front to back, then you know it is in the drivetrain or something else.

is the shaking in the steering wheel or in the whole car? if it is in the steering wheel, then DEFINITELY do the steps i mentioned above. You will likely figure it out from what I just told you.

Not trying to sound like a know it all but I did work at a tire shop for 3 years and have had a lot of vibrations blamed on alignments when most of the time it was either a bent rim, or out of balance tire.

Just definitely don't want to condemn parts and expensive things before ruling out the simple fixes!

Hope it helps!
Old 03-13-2013, 03:59 PM
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Also inspect the tires for uneven wear, feathering, chopping, or a SLIPPED BELT. These all also can cause shaking/vibration
Old 03-14-2013, 09:08 AM
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I had the same vibration issue in my V1. It happened only at highway speeds and went away at really high speeds(80mph or more). For me it ended up being bad motor mounts. I knew they were shot but I didn't realize they were the cause of the vibration until I installed CS motor mounts and the vibration went away.
Old 03-14-2013, 06:47 PM
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Are the techs are NTB morons? How can the RF wheel be that far out of whack and still be within any type of range of within spec? You bent something.
Old 03-14-2013, 08:31 PM
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I am having 100% the same exact problem. I'm 99.9% sure its tire balance. Has done it since I put new tires on, before that nothing. Initially was all front end, i rotated tires and it moved to the back end and isnt quite as bad now. Have meant to re balance the rear tires just havent gotten around to it. I know its not engine/flywheel related because it was present when I had my stock ls6 and stock clutch. When I built my forged ls2 I obvioulsy balanced the rotating assembly but also balanced the new clutch and flywheel, which were already within .5 gram which would have been perfectly fine but i went ahead and got it to zero balance while it was on the machine. And like I said I know Its tires bc it came about after i replaced them. Will let you know that it goes away when i balance the tires again tomorrow and keep us posted on your issue
Old 03-14-2013, 09:15 PM
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I have balanced these tires almost every time they did an alignment...I also had them rotated once since. Same shake n bake and its definitely up front.

DMM: you may be on to something with the hub bearing, cause the more that i think about it, I think I heard a ticking on left hand turns at low speed for a month or so after the curbing. I thought it was my scuffed up rim that may be bent so I replaced it. When I looked up some info on the hub bearing it said that I would hear like a grinding sound or something at lower speeds but it didn't say anything about vibration. My car at higher speed just does not feel stable AT ALL...it's like all over the place "JELLO". Even though the wheel is not shacking very much the car feels like its all over the driving lane. Also the hub is around $50 on ebay so i may just grab one as long as its not too much of a B!Tch to replace.

ssinister: I will be putting the car back on the road at the end of the month...I need new TPMS and tires so I will be installing those then as well to rule out the tire possibility.

S!mplistic: I did change the motor mounts about 15k ago but I put stock ones on. Kind of dreading doing this again since the car has headers and exhaust now that are in the way. I know this is an issue on these cars but doesnt make sence for this to start after the curbing.

ALL in ALL the cause has to be related to hitting the curb because that's when it started. I thought It just curbed my rim and threw off the alignment but neither a new rim nor an alignment/balance nor new tires solved it. I just don't see anything bent and neither do these NTB "mechanics" and all these other little shops or I figure they would have said something by now.
Old 03-14-2013, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kl2onik
the hub is around $50 on ebay so i may just grab one as long as its not too much of a B!Tch to replace.
Just slightly more work than changing the brake rotor. Three bolts and the ABS connector after you get the rotor off. The hub bearing is a sealed assembly and is usually $150-$250. Rock auto has a good deal on them IIRC.


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