TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

well got started and the first exhaust bolt broke, what is the story with the fix for those? Def doesn't seem like it is gonna go as smooth as I thought I thought it would. Gonna try to heat the rest up

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

Which exhaust bolts? If they're on the 2 bolt flange on the cat, drill them out or blow them out with a torch. I broke all 4 of mine off and was able to hammer a couple out, the others I had to drill.

shadyLS6

op,
throw some PB-blaster on the rest of those bolts before you mess with them. if it's an exhaust bolt at the header flange. try to use a dremmel with a mini metal cut off wheel to slice a slot in the remaining bolt, i have done this on a 4.0 jeep and it worked like a charm or else you may have to remove the head.

everyone else,
Thanks for all the info in this thread. LS7 clutch threads are a dime a dozen but its hard to find consistent info

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

We got the rest out without breaking by heating them up. Also got the tranns out as well. Will update with some pics and stuff later

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

do you need to remove the cats? Can't get the bellhousing off, the right bolt

DarkCharisma

Nope.

Make sure your O2 harnesses are out of the way. There's also a big-*** loom at the top that gets stuck. Helps if you pull it out from the top first. The bell-housing will come out without much finesse once the harness is out of the way.

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

What tool did you use? I'm talking about the 2nd bolt that is above the starter, the oem cat is in the way I can't get anything on it to get it loose. I already have all the other bolts out, just can't get that one.

Just to be clear I have stock exhaust manifolds, not headers

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html

the one on the right, (says on the right with the red arrow)

DarkCharisma

I used a ratchet wrench. It barely fits, and it's like 5* of turn each time, but you can get it on there.

Did you remove or loosen the starter ?

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

got the bolt out now I am spinning the housing around and can't get it out. Haven't messed with the starter but the bell housing isn't coming out. from what you are saying it is probably some wires holding it up. Besides the big *** flywheel

DarkCharisma

Yeah. It's a bit of a bitch to get out of there. Patience and it'll come out. Make sure your engine is dropped as far as it can go. You can also loosen the motor mounts if it's really feeling impossible.

If it makes you feel any better it's a LOT easier to put back in without the massive flywheel.

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

Got it out, had to take the clutch/pressure plate off to get the bell housing off. Now the flywheel bolts are not lined up and I'm beating it with a hammer and it isn't moving. Thought I saw a thread about it but can't find it

Thanks for the help guys keep it coming

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

Try putting two pressure plate bolts back into the flywheel (sticking out some) then use a long prybar (or similar) between them to turn the flywheel enough to get the bolts aligned.)

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

okay got the new flywheel and clutch installed/torqued. Now we are on to the revshift mounts, do you have to remove both manifolds? we are looking at the passenger side now and it looks pretty close and almost impossible without.

thanks again, keep the tips coming in

DarkCharisma

To directly answer your question: No, neither manifold have to come off with stock exhaust. I did both revshift mounts with everything still installed.

That being said, if you can confidently remove your manifolds without fear of snapping or otherwise destroying the bolt heads or head threads, go for it. I've never cussed more in a 3-hour window than when I tried putting those motor mounts in without taking stuff apart around it.

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

Yea got the mounts out, not sure what the other threads are talking about. Didn't have to remove anything and they came out. Helped when I watched the video from CS.
so thanks to them.

The stupid part is, the bolts that mount to the motor on the passenger side were hand tight,so that could have been causing some vibration. And on top of that I already have aftermarket mounts! Looks like the UUC yellow mounts and they look to be in mint condition, so I'm a little pissed. I ended up putting in the revshift mounts, but the yellow ones were working perfect for the year I have had the car (prolly a lot longer when the previous installed them) So I feel like I wasted 150+ on new mounts when these are fine









So the new mounts are installed and the clutch/flywheel is torqued ready to go. Thanks again guys, big help and keep it coming

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

Apparently I had the complete UUC kit with the tranns insert, is there any input on UUC VS revshift mounts? The UUC seemed perfect in my car and looks a lot beefier than the revshift kit. I never was able to compare to stock but there wasn't any noise or anything that seemed out of place. Still pissed I bought new mounts and I already had a kit

I have revshift mounts installed but can't install the revshift tranns insert because the uuc is one solid mount and I don't have the stock mount. So it is gonna be revshift mounts with uuc tranns mount installed

Installing the mounts was pretty easy because we took out the subframe bolts (like in the video) and the bell housing was cake also because we just lowered the motor down and with the subframe loose the motor tilted perfectly. gave about 1"

DarkCharisma

Glad to hear it's going together well for you.

How are you going to bleed it?

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

I just have the stock bleeder, didn't have time to order the speed bleeder. Just gonna try with the mighty vac I bought from autozone. Figured if gm can bleed it with just the nipple sticking out against the car then I can too haha. Prolly gonna be a huge biatch

Putting the tranns back in now

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

is there a write up for the revshift differential install? I googled and can't find it

DarkCharisma

Likely not any different than the others. Remove old one, clean hole, add lube, forcefully insert new until seated. Torque to 130ft-lbs or some jazz like that.

I used a reciprocating saw and carefully cut out the old metal ring. Worked pretty quick and easy.

Edit: It's a two-piece like their other bushings. A few members have done UCA bushings already. Installation procedure is likely very, very similar.