What did you do to your V today?
12-15-2016, 03:07 PM
#1009
The height change could've been caused by a couple of things. Newer springs, differences between the V1 and V2 spring perches, or subtle differences in the geometry or thicknesses of the frame elements. Even taking the springs off can cause a temporary boost in ride height until everything settles again.
Even if room was available, I don't think it's a good idea to adjust for ride height using bushings. You want a certain flange height to isolate the subframe from the car body. Anyone in the market for bushings should be looking to replace the OEM progressive springs, so I don't see the ride height concern as significant. The significant concern is the effect on driveline misalignment angles.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 12-15-2016 at 03:17 PM.
12-15-2016, 05:04 PM
#1010
The height change could've been caused by a couple of things. Newer springs, differences between the V1 and V2 spring perches, or subtle differences in the geometry or thicknesses of the frame elements. Even taking the springs off can cause a temporary boost in ride height until everything settles again.
Even if room was available, I don't think it's a good idea to adjust for ride height using bushings. You want a certain flange height to isolate the subframe from the car body. Anyone in the market for bushings should be looking to replace the OEM progressive springs, so I don't see the ride height concern as significant. The significant concern is the effect on driveline misalignment angles.
Even if room was available, I don't think it's a good idea to adjust for ride height using bushings. You want a certain flange height to isolate the subframe from the car body. Anyone in the market for bushings should be looking to replace the OEM progressive springs, so I don't see the ride height concern as significant. The significant concern is the effect on driveline misalignment angles.
12-15-2016, 07:43 PM
#1011
V2:
V2 side view showing rear bushing:
V1:
The axles are slightly different length but Chris and I will work through that. I might pick up a set of 33 spline outer stubs too, depending on how much they want for them. Right now SKF sells 5x115 X-Tracker wheel bearings in both 30 and 33 spline variants, but who knows how long they'll continue selling the 30 spline version given the lack of customers. The only thing that sucks is that the 33 spline wheel bearings are twice the price. I've never heard of a Corvette tax before, but who knows.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 12-15-2016 at 07:54 PM.
12-15-2016, 07:52 PM
#1012
Awesome....You mind posting this in the original V2 cradle swap thread?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...rame-swap.html
You doing the fuel tank swap too????
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...rame-swap.html
You doing the fuel tank swap too????
12-15-2016, 07:59 PM
#1013
12-15-2016, 09:02 PM
#1015
The sedan, coupe, wagon, and V all use the same part number on the tank. There is approximately 80% commonality with all of the other components. The big difference is that the V version has a better pump module.
12-19-2016, 01:33 PM
#1018
I replaced a worn wheel bearing and reapplied the top windshield molding where about 12" had popped up.
I had to swap the lug studs out from my old bearing to new since I have longer studs. I ended up running over to Harbor Freight, which is a convenient 5 minutes away from my house, and bought a 6 ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press (aka, bottle jack in an A-frame). Well worth the investment, and still cheaper than having a shop do the work. The press is far from perfect and it's a bit awkward fitting the items to be pressed within its platform and blocks, but with some creativity can work.
The windshield molding was pretty simple and the adhesive cost me $7. Pulled the whole strip out, cleaned the crevice and the removed molding with windex and a couple rags, applied a new bead on top of the old dried up bead, another bead on the backside of the molding, let it tack up, reapplied and smoothed with a plastic putty spatula and held down the trouble areas for a few minutes until the adhesive had set enough. In hindsight it probably would have been best to heat the molding a bit to soften it, but it ended up working fine without that step. It was 60*+ in my garage.
It felt good finally knocking some maintenance items off the checklist.
I had to swap the lug studs out from my old bearing to new since I have longer studs. I ended up running over to Harbor Freight, which is a convenient 5 minutes away from my house, and bought a 6 ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press (aka, bottle jack in an A-frame). Well worth the investment, and still cheaper than having a shop do the work. The press is far from perfect and it's a bit awkward fitting the items to be pressed within its platform and blocks, but with some creativity can work.
The windshield molding was pretty simple and the adhesive cost me $7. Pulled the whole strip out, cleaned the crevice and the removed molding with windex and a couple rags, applied a new bead on top of the old dried up bead, another bead on the backside of the molding, let it tack up, reapplied and smoothed with a plastic putty spatula and held down the trouble areas for a few minutes until the adhesive had set enough. In hindsight it probably would have been best to heat the molding a bit to soften it, but it ended up working fine without that step. It was 60*+ in my garage.
It felt good finally knocking some maintenance items off the checklist.
