What did you do to your V today?
02-23-2017, 09:35 AM
#1182
Test fit C6 Corvette spindles yesterday. They're super light (3-4 lbs less than STS spindles) and provide even more room for wide front wheels without fender modifications. The main reason I'm doing this is to provide greater range of motion for the upper control arms on my lowered V1. However they also provide compatibility with C6 Corvette brake ducts, calipers, and carbon ceramic rotors.
I will need to adapt C6 upper control arms or build custom arms to get them running, though. I might do a fully adjustable tubular / jam nut design in Solidworks next week. It'll be similar to the fully adjustable C4 upper control arms.
Also found 30 spline, 5x4.75" (5x120.65mm) wheel bearings with anti-knockback bearings and passive ABS. Doesn't matter whether you have OEM spindles, STS spindles, or C6 Corvette spindles--they'll fit. $375 to $450 per corner, but they've got a racing pedigree and should last a long time.
Once it's all done, the above setup will provide full compatibility with 390-394mm AP Racing, Coleman, or Wilwood rotors and calipers designed for the C6 Corvette. I'm hoping to cut many tens of feet off my stopping distance.
I will need to adapt C6 upper control arms or build custom arms to get them running, though. I might do a fully adjustable tubular / jam nut design in Solidworks next week. It'll be similar to the fully adjustable C4 upper control arms.
Also found 30 spline, 5x4.75" (5x120.65mm) wheel bearings with anti-knockback bearings and passive ABS. Doesn't matter whether you have OEM spindles, STS spindles, or C6 Corvette spindles--they'll fit. $375 to $450 per corner, but they've got a racing pedigree and should last a long time.
Once it's all done, the above setup will provide full compatibility with 390-394mm AP Racing, Coleman, or Wilwood rotors and calipers designed for the C6 Corvette. I'm hoping to cut many tens of feet off my stopping distance.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 02-23-2017 at 09:46 AM.
02-23-2017, 12:15 PM
#1183
TECH Enthusiast
Test fit C6 Corvette spindles yesterday. They're super light (3-4 lbs less than STS spindles) and provide even more room for wide front wheels without fender modifications. The main reason I'm doing this is to provide greater range of motion for the upper control arms on my lowered V1. However they also provide compatibility with C6 Corvette brake ducts, calipers, and carbon ceramic rotors.
I will need to adapt C6 upper control arms or build custom arms to get them running, though. I might do a fully adjustable tubular / jam nut design in Solidworks next week. It'll be similar to the fully adjustable C4 upper control arms.
Also found 30 spline, 5x4.75" (5x120.65mm) wheel bearings with anti-knockback bearings and passive ABS. Doesn't matter whether you have OEM spindles, STS spindles, or C6 Corvette spindles--they'll fit. $375 to $450 per corner, but they've got a racing pedigree and should last a long time.
Once it's all done, the above setup will provide full compatibility with 390-394mm AP Racing, Coleman, or Wilwood rotors and calipers designed for the C6 Corvette. I'm hoping to cut many tens of feet off my stopping distance.
I will need to adapt C6 upper control arms or build custom arms to get them running, though. I might do a fully adjustable tubular / jam nut design in Solidworks next week. It'll be similar to the fully adjustable C4 upper control arms.
Also found 30 spline, 5x4.75" (5x120.65mm) wheel bearings with anti-knockback bearings and passive ABS. Doesn't matter whether you have OEM spindles, STS spindles, or C6 Corvette spindles--they'll fit. $375 to $450 per corner, but they've got a racing pedigree and should last a long time.
Once it's all done, the above setup will provide full compatibility with 390-394mm AP Racing, Coleman, or Wilwood rotors and calipers designed for the C6 Corvette. I'm hoping to cut many tens of feet off my stopping distance.
02-24-2017, 01:56 PM
#1185
TECH Regular
As stated some post´s before, better is stronger toe rod, when using a 90° shore a PU bushing...
I used 15Mo3 tube with 4mm wall thickness and build and welded them by my own:
Finished in black with bushings:
Pics when installed may take a while...
Regards
Ronald
I used 15Mo3 tube with 4mm wall thickness and build and welded them by my own:
Finished in black with bushings:
Pics when installed may take a while...
Regards
Ronald
02-24-2017, 03:30 PM
#1188
Ron, why did you choose 15mo3? Was it simply what was on hand?
You probably already know this, but all good polyurethane bushings are machined after molding. The durometer of the polyurethane has to be accounted for during machining if the manufacturer offers the design in several hardnesses to provide the correct dimensions under compression.
You probably already know this, but all good polyurethane bushings are machined after molding. The durometer of the polyurethane has to be accounted for during machining if the manufacturer offers the design in several hardnesses to provide the correct dimensions under compression.
02-24-2017, 03:54 PM
#1189
TECH Regular
Yes, but also it has more tensile strenght then normal steel tube!
This aren't my first toe rods or whatever name they have, build similar ones 10 years ago for other cars and selled a few of them, they worked correct since them, no issues and stiff during all the time, also why shouldn't i use it also on a V1?
Regards,
Ronald
This aren't my first toe rods or whatever name they have, build similar ones 10 years ago for other cars and selled a few of them, they worked correct since them, no issues and stiff during all the time, also why shouldn't i use it also on a V1?
Regards,
Ronald
02-24-2017, 04:20 PM
#1190
Yes, but also it has more tensile strenght then normal steel tube!
This aren't my first toe rods or whatever name they have, build similar ones 10 years ago for other cars and selled a few of them, they worked correct since them, no issues and stiff during all the time, also why shouldn't i use it also on a V1?
Regards,
Ronald
This aren't my first toe rods or whatever name they have, build similar ones 10 years ago for other cars and selled a few of them, they worked correct since them, no issues and stiff during all the time, also why shouldn't i use it also on a V1?
Regards,
Ronald
02-24-2017, 11:58 PM
#1192
My first set died after 5-6 passes with a rotary buffer. The coating came off. I had a second set professionally painted and the equivalent of a 3M clear bra put on them. The new ones show no signs of degrading.
02-25-2017, 04:34 AM
#1194
TECH Regular
02-26-2017, 08:01 PM
#1195
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 92
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I put new plugs and wires on. I went with NGK Iridium IX and ACDelco professional 9748M wires. I didn't know if they have been changed before but now I'm pretty sure they have been. The ACDeloc plugs were gapped at .50. One of the plugs gap was way off, somewhere between .50 and .80. And the old wires were Autolite wires. Guess that would explain the misfire that developed. Overall it wasn't too hard of a job. Just a little tight on the drivers side. I just removed the coils and I was able to change them with out moving anything else. I don't have a 3/8 torque wrench so I hope they are in there tight enough.
02-27-2017, 12:53 AM
#1196
Been taking my knock off dynamat and blazing it throughout the caddy. Center console is knocked off the list. Sounds much more substantial with the thunk test. Wrapped the bezel while it was out. With a little luck the caddy will be as quiet as the interior should be. No squeaks and creaks
