When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
pulled the front bumper and lights to fix a dead bulb - found out since I have aftermarket lights I don't have HID, and found that the drivers bulb had shorted out and melted the connection (!!), had to splice in a new pig tail to fix it. Did score some free headlight bulbs from local parts store though!
Also pulled all grilles to get them plasti-dipped, car looks a bit funny now.
Found some vertical movement in passenger front tire, so will be doing a new wheel bearing soonest.
Put the Creative Steel stage 1 motor mounts in yesterday. This is what the stockers look like.
Those actually don't look to bad. I don't see any apparent tears or fluid leakage. But, they were likely ticking time bombs. Failed mounts tend to cause other problems, so it's good that you were proactive.
Those actually don't look to bad. I don't see any apparent tears or fluid leakage. But, they were likely ticking time bombs. Failed mounts tend to cause other problems, so it's good that you were proactive.
Did you use 3M Tape or bolted it down? been looking at one at ebay myself.
no tape, had to drill 4 holes topside, 4 larger holes bottom side to allow for screws and washers. From what I gather, different spoilers use different mounts. I liked the 2 post better and I also didn't have to worry about the 3rd brake light profile. I read that cts and cts-v use a different part with the cts-v having an upward lip.
I finished the bottom side holes with grommets, so it looks ok.
Those MM looks great compared to mine that were ripped in two with oil leaking everywhere. I mounted up my summer rims and tires over the weekend, looking forward to the warmer weather.
Did what Fuzzy suggested me to do, put a roll pin in and slop is completely gone now:
You do very nice work!
All my slop is side to side and has maybe 1-1.5" of play when in gear. I've already replaced trans and support/slider bushings with revshift when I did the hurst shifter.
I've also got the vibrations around 2100rpm whether in gear or not which I believe is caused by my stock flywheel. Whenever the vibrations get to me or my clutch finally goes out I'll be doing the roll pin too. Hopefully that'll take care of the slop.
for what it's worth, I believe it's the flywheel causing the vibrations in my case because one day i lugged the engine a little too much around the neighborhood. After I did that my vibes went away for a few weeks. My theory is my lugging caused the dual mass springs to actually get 'unhung' and do what they're supposed to do.
Thx man, you have also to get rid of the plastics into the connector to eliminate the side by side play, there would be the biggest gap in the gear shift linkage!
Greetz
Ron
Last edited by Choppy_Idle; 03-21-2017 at 03:33 PM.
Replacing the cheap *** hard ware that came with my headers for the ball and cap flange. That stupid spring is worthless. I'd love to see the c-locks back off of there!
Replacing the cheap *** hard ware that came with my headers for the ball and cap flange. That stupid spring is worthless. I'd love to see the c-locks back off of there!
Curious what you're replacing it with. You're talking about the sprung bolts, right?
I bought my first one (04) and in the past few days took delivery of it. First thing I have done, which I did today was get the windows tinted. My rear dif has a leak in it that I have to track down and get taken care of soon.
I bought my first one (04) and in the past few days took delivery of it. First thing I have done, which I did today was get the windows tinted. My rear dif has a leak in it that I have to track down and get taken care of soon.
Curious what you're replacing it with. You're talking about the sprung bolts, right?
Yup. Look for c-lock nuts. (They are a deformed nut, like the oem ones used)And at that I doubled them up and impacted them on. The header will fall off before those nuts do. No more exhaust leaking out from the cap because you can't get much *** on that bolt with the spring. 70 mm bolts with the c-locks are what the dr ordered!
03-18-2017, 07:37 PM
