CTS-V Clutch Install Write Up Monster Twin Disc
04-21-2014, 08:32 AM
#22
Also, to add a few more pics......
I switched out the nylon cup inside the trans to a bronze (or brass?) to help tidy up the shifter. Thanks Brian for the pieces (even though I had to grind on em to make em fit lol)
Nylon......
Upgraded......
Here's the one on the shifter stalk I switched out also......
I switched out the nylon cup inside the trans to a bronze (or brass?) to help tidy up the shifter. Thanks Brian for the pieces (even though I had to grind on em to make em fit lol)
Nylon......
Upgraded......
Here's the one on the shifter stalk I switched out also......
04-21-2014, 09:17 AM
#24
I'd be interested in working with you to develop a more general, detailed clutch swap guide on VSeriesForums. The foundational stuff in your post is good, but there are a whole bunch of tools and tricks that cut hours off the mod time that need adding.
04-21-2014, 10:00 AM
#25
If your car isn't back in one piece, I suggest tack welding the pivot point on the linkage. That's eliminated a considerable amount of play in my setup in addition to Brian's bushings throughout and the plastic Home Depot bushings.
04-22-2014, 07:46 AM
#27
Lolly, where did you get your brass isolator cup from? I bought mine from the gearbox and it fit onto the gear selector too tight, had to be taped on with a mallet, and caused the shifter to not return to the neutral position. How did yours fit, aside from the flange grinding so it would drop into place? My trans is at the shop right now on a bench and they're going to replace it with a new nylon cup.
If your car isn't back in one piece, I suggest tack welding the pivot point on the linkage. That's eliminated a considerable amount of play in my setup in addition to Brian's bushings throughout and the plastic Home Depot bushings.
If your car isn't back in one piece, I suggest tack welding the pivot point on the linkage. That's eliminated a considerable amount of play in my setup in addition to Brian's bushings throughout and the plastic Home Depot bushings.
I've heard of people welding the stalk to the pivot point as well. I suck at welding, so I never tacked it. That does seem like that induces the most movement out of any part in the whole linkage setup.
04-24-2014, 03:29 PM
#29
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Just got delivery of my Monster LT1-SC from fedex today 
Can hardly wait to install it, read nothing but good reviews on these twin discs, I'm actually glad Katech stopped making the clutch I was going to get lol.
Only disappointment was, no Monster stickers in the box. Too bad, they would have looked good on my tool box.
Can hardly wait to install it, read nothing but good reviews on these twin discs, I'm actually glad Katech stopped making the clutch I was going to get lol.
Only disappointment was, no Monster stickers in the box. Too bad, they would have looked good on my tool box.
04-25-2014, 07:48 AM
#30
Just got delivery of my Monster LT1-SC from fedex today
Can hardly wait to install it, read nothing but good reviews on these twin discs, I'm actually glad Katech stopped making the clutch I was going to get lol.
Only disappointment was, no Monster stickers in the box. Too bad, they would have looked good on my tool box.
Can hardly wait to install it, read nothing but good reviews on these twin discs, I'm actually glad Katech stopped making the clutch I was going to get lol.
Only disappointment was, no Monster stickers in the box. Too bad, they would have looked good on my tool box.
Wait a sec......I didn't get any stickers either! Revolt! lol
06-24-2014, 12:25 PM
#31
Awesome writeup! Thanks for the effort, big help with my clutch install!
Sense I went with UMI motor mounts, I was able to drop the motor down about half inch by pulling the through bolts out and letting the oil pan sit on the front swaybar. Getting the engine/transmission a little lower let me pull the heat shield and shifter base out of the car once the cross member was out of the way. That was 5 minutes well spent because it created enough room to get all the transmission bolts out with a 1/2" impact and a 3' extension without any swivels...easy.
Thanks again!
Sense I went with UMI motor mounts, I was able to drop the motor down about half inch by pulling the through bolts out and letting the oil pan sit on the front swaybar. Getting the engine/transmission a little lower let me pull the heat shield and shifter base out of the car once the cross member was out of the way. That was 5 minutes well spent because it created enough room to get all the transmission bolts out with a 1/2" impact and a 3' extension without any swivels...easy.
Thanks again!
07-06-2015, 06:07 PM
#32
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When it comes to installing the slave cylinder, is there a trick I don't understand? I've got over an hour and too many curse words to count trying to get that clip back in.
02-13-2016, 04:57 PM
#35
If you use a trans jack like I do, I have to get it probably 4 or 5 notches up on the Harbor Freight 6 ton jack stands, which is pretty damn high. If you are ok with lifting the trans off the jack and sliding it out from under the car, then probably 18" from side skirt to ground. Just pulled a friend's trans and I think he said it was at 17". It was tight, but it worked.
