Slapping on drag radials on my V, should i be worried?
05-30-2014, 09:12 AM
#1
Slapping on drag radials on my V, should i be worried? Ordering some MT et street II's on the stock wheels for now before i get them widened, and i really want to take my v to the track and get some base times down.. but at the same time im just completely worried about my rear end grenading at the burnout box, or launching over 3k...
These rear ends are quite the enigma,... Ive seen them blow up from a roll, during a burnout, BUT Ive also seen them hold up to nitrous hits and stroker motors..
So, my theory is, if I could keep the wheel hop under control with a minor investment with subframe/cradle bushings, and the geforce anti-wheel hop axles (and anything else you recommend ?) that it could withstand trips to the drag strip using drag radials.
My current mods are headers + exhaust, hotchkis sway bars, and a dynotune, 372hp SAE.
My end goal is milled 243 heads, clutch, and a custom ground cam. Would love to do a 8.8 swap or a 9in if funds become available, but i have to work with what I got right now.
These rear ends are quite the enigma,... Ive seen them blow up from a roll, during a burnout, BUT Ive also seen them hold up to nitrous hits and stroker motors..
So, my theory is, if I could keep the wheel hop under control with a minor investment with subframe/cradle bushings, and the geforce anti-wheel hop axles (and anything else you recommend ?) that it could withstand trips to the drag strip using drag radials.
My current mods are headers + exhaust, hotchkis sway bars, and a dynotune, 372hp SAE.
My end goal is milled 243 heads, clutch, and a custom ground cam. Would love to do a 8.8 swap or a 9in if funds become available, but i have to work with what I got right now.
05-30-2014, 09:28 AM
#3
Have you run it without drag radials? Do you have traction problems as-is?
I'd run it on street tires before I pulled out the drag meats.
Also, I wouldn't put drag tires on a stock V setup. I'd wait until I AT LEAST had the subframe connectors to eliminate the hop.
I'd run it on street tires before I pulled out the drag meats.
Also, I wouldn't put drag tires on a stock V setup. I'd wait until I AT LEAST had the subframe connectors to eliminate the hop.
05-30-2014, 09:39 AM
#4
My question was, when i change out the subframe bushings (for example, the green ones from revshift?) and install the anti wheel hop axels, would it be safe to install the drag radials? I'm not going to put the DR's on this stock setup.
05-30-2014, 10:24 AM
#7
You can do a burnout with the axles and bushings that reduce the wheelhop to a neglible level. The CV guts are what you will most likely break from the torque of the launch. Of all the axles I've busted (10 with GForce shafts with stock CV's and 2 DSS complete 1000 Hp axles), 8 were CV internals and 4 were broken stub shafts inside the diff.
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05-30-2014, 10:26 AM
#8
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well i would say its because of the wheel hop during the burn out. i would say with axles and bushings and sfc's you would be likely to bust the case open on a launch rather than the burn out if you had all those parts. but you wont know if it holds until you try. but i certainly wouldnt throw dr's on it until you had supporting mods. get some parts and let her rip!
05-30-2014, 10:51 AM
#9
well i would say its because of the wheel hop during the burn out. i would say with axles and bushings and sfc's you would be likely to bust the case open on a launch rather than the burn out if you had all those parts. but you wont know if it holds until you try. but i certainly wouldnt throw dr's on it until you had supporting mods. get some parts and let her rip!
Creative steel managed a 13.1 with just a 8.8 swap, bone stock cts v on street tires. So, I think mid-high 12's should be relatively obtainable as a baseline.
05-30-2014, 10:52 AM
#10
You can do a burnout with the axles and bushings that reduce the wheelhop to a neglible level. The CV guts are what you will most likely break from the torque of the launch. Of all the axles I've busted (10 with GForce shafts with stock CV's and 2 DSS complete 1000 Hp axles), 8 were CV internals and 4 were broken stub shafts inside the diff.
05-30-2014, 11:17 AM
#13
I ran drag radials on my stock diff for a while but knew better than to launch or shift it hard. They hold power and torque, but not the jarring that comes from hopping.
Once you start doing anti-wheel hop this and that, $500 here, $600 there, few hundred in bushings, $600 for your drag radials...etc you really should evaluate how close you're getting to the price of the CS 8.8. Granted you may still spend $1500 LESS buying the "band aid" parts, but to know you spent a couple thousand $ and the weak link still truly exists would drive me nuts. I know full well its a tough pill to swallow to plunk down $4,000+ at once for the rear, but once its done, its done. Id say if you wanna race the car just hold out and pinch your pennies
Once you start doing anti-wheel hop this and that, $500 here, $600 there, few hundred in bushings, $600 for your drag radials...etc you really should evaluate how close you're getting to the price of the CS 8.8. Granted you may still spend $1500 LESS buying the "band aid" parts, but to know you spent a couple thousand $ and the weak link still truly exists would drive me nuts. I know full well its a tough pill to swallow to plunk down $4,000+ at once for the rear, but once its done, its done. Id say if you wanna race the car just hold out and pinch your pennies
05-30-2014, 12:07 PM
#15
I ran drag radials on my stock diff for a while but knew better than to launch or shift it hard. They hold power and torque, but not the jarring that comes from hopping.
Once you start doing anti-wheel hop this and that, $500 here, $600 there, few hundred in bushings, $600 for your drag radials...etc you really should evaluate how close you're getting to the price of the CS 8.8. Granted you may still spend $1500 LESS buying the "band aid" parts, but to know you spent a couple thousand $ and the weak link still truly exists would drive me nuts. I know full well its a tough pill to swallow to plunk down $4,000+ at once for the rear, but once its done, its done. Id say if you wanna race the car just hold out and pinch your pennies
Once you start doing anti-wheel hop this and that, $500 here, $600 there, few hundred in bushings, $600 for your drag radials...etc you really should evaluate how close you're getting to the price of the CS 8.8. Granted you may still spend $1500 LESS buying the "band aid" parts, but to know you spent a couple thousand $ and the weak link still truly exists would drive me nuts. I know full well its a tough pill to swallow to plunk down $4,000+ at once for the rear, but once its done, its done. Id say if you wanna race the car just hold out and pinch your pennies
However, I need to replace these bushings regardless (they're all deteriorated already, along with the diff bushing, trans mount and motor mounts).. so its just a step by step process for my car. It'll eventually get swapped out to the 8.8, but my stock rear hasn't grenaded just yet, so i have some leeway in the meantime. Its not a serious ctsv yet, so i dont see the need for a complete 9" just yet.. although it seems to me like that should be the first thing to buy is the upgraded rear since it eliminates 90% of the cts v flaws.
05-30-2014, 01:08 PM
#19
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You can check the part number or snap a pic of the housing and guys on here will probably be able to identify if it's a later diff or not.
