Picked up my car
06-20-2014, 03:51 PM
#1
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Picked up my car I had all the mounts, cradle bushings driveshaft, axles and a tune done. Good news no wheel hop. I also got the driveline vibration I was expecting from the mounts/bushings. I ended up taking it back because the driveshaft vibrates over 80mph. That pissed me off. Hopefully it's done quick.
06-20-2014, 04:46 PM
#2
I had all the mounts, cradle bushings driveshaft, axles and a tune done. Good news no wheel hop. I also got the driveline vibration I was expecting from the mounts/bushings. I ended up taking it back because the driveshaft vibrates over 80mph. That pissed me off. Hopefully it's done quick.
How bad do you consider your driveline vibration? What hardness urethane? I did full bushings and mounts and if anything, feel the car is smoother.
06-21-2014, 12:42 AM
#3
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I used the Creative Steel mounts, Rev Shift blue cradle bushings. I feel a vibration pretty much in the whole car and the differential seems to be whining louder too. What ever it is I'm sure it will be figured out. I discussed it with a friend the had the guibo (sp?) Replaced on his CTS and he said it might be that because he had a bad vibration too. I'm just happy there is no wheel hop. Funny thing is my buddy was driving my 2.0t auto ATS and we both launched at 2200 rpm and the nose of my V was even with the back bumper till I hit 3rd then I pulled away. I hope that it was because I wasn't getting traction.
06-21-2014, 05:16 PM
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Embarrasing? yes. Unexpected? Yes. Good thing is it was my car. At least its quicker than i thought. Let's just call it user error. The other thing is I never launched the V that hard.i would let it roll a little and then punch it. Haven't lost a race once closest I have come to that was a 300 SRT and he had to shut down as soon as I hit 3rd and was reeling him in.
06-21-2014, 08:25 PM
#6
the cs mount raised my transmission almost 3/8 of an inch over my extremely sagged out factory piece. to help combat vibrations, i measured the installed height of the transmission before and after the mount install and shimmed the crossmember to achieve the same installed height the car had before installing the new mount.
my carrier bearing is sagged out pretty hard and raising the transmission is bound to **** it off. we'll see soon enough.....
my carrier bearing is sagged out pretty hard and raising the transmission is bound to **** it off. we'll see soon enough.....
06-23-2014, 02:43 PM
#7
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the cs mount raised my transmission almost 3/8 of an inch over my extremely sagged out factory piece. to help combat vibrations, i measured the installed height of the transmission before and after the mount install and shimmed the crossmember to achieve the same installed height the car had before installing the new mount.
my carrier bearing is sagged out pretty hard and raising the transmission is bound to **** it off. we'll see soon enough.....
my carrier bearing is sagged out pretty hard and raising the transmission is bound to **** it off. we'll see soon enough.....
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06-24-2014, 08:04 AM
#8
I took a little time to realign the driveshaft back to where it was before I swapped mounts and it seems fairly happy. Slight vibration but no worse than it was before.
06-24-2014, 05:05 PM
#11
the only reason i can think of to reindex the driveshaft is that it was balanced it in the car from the factory. if they did that, you wouldn't be able to put a driveshaft from another car in your car which means a core program for the following ain't happenin....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...t-bearing.html
i doubt its the axles...the driveshaft being much longer makes it the most prime target but whatever it is, i need to figure it out cause mine does it some too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...t-bearing.html
i doubt its the axles...the driveshaft being much longer makes it the most prime target but whatever it is, i need to figure it out cause mine does it some too.
06-25-2014, 07:58 AM
#12
TECH Enthusiast
The driveshafts aren't balanced in the cars. They come pre-balanced from a sub-supplier and a line worker picks the proper length shaft and lays it on a decking tray and fastens the bolts to the sub-assembly. The paint mark is a torque audit check verifying that the joint was actually torqued from the factory. A special note, you should always replace driveshaft bolts as they are generally torque to yield, one time use.
I'm not sure if the factory DS/guibo combo has a preferred location with an indicator or arrow on it for indexing to the trans or diff side, but indexing will change the frequency of vibration and possibly eliminate it depending what is generating the vibration in the first place.
I'm not sure if the factory DS/guibo combo has a preferred location with an indicator or arrow on it for indexing to the trans or diff side, but indexing will change the frequency of vibration and possibly eliminate it depending what is generating the vibration in the first place.
06-25-2014, 08:16 AM
#13
The driveshafts aren't balanced in the cars. They come pre-balanced from a sub-supplier and a line worker picks the proper length shaft and lays it on a decking tray and fastens the bolts to the sub-assembly. The paint mark is a torque audit check verifying that the joint was actually torqued from the factory. A special note, you should always replace driveshaft bolts as they are generally torque to yield, one time use.
I'm not sure if the factory DS/guibo combo has a preferred location with an indicator or arrow on it for indexing to the trans or diff side, but indexing will change the frequency of vibration and possibly eliminate it depending what is generating the vibration in the first place.
I'm not sure if the factory DS/guibo combo has a preferred location with an indicator or arrow on it for indexing to the trans or diff side, but indexing will change the frequency of vibration and possibly eliminate it depending what is generating the vibration in the first place.
Beat me to it!
There is no clocking to the factory shaft, because of its design. It bolts directly to the diff with the CV (nothing that could possibly throw it off balance) and the guibo bushing in the front (again nothing to throw it off). After market shafts are clocked because (in the cts-v case) there is an adapter for the trans mounting which is balanced as part of the drive shaft.
My guess would be the OP's carrier bearing is shotty.
Edit: how are you determining it to be the drive shaft vibrating?
06-25-2014, 10:08 AM
#14
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06-25-2014, 10:50 AM
#16
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Lol... I did that (GoPro) to record the rear subframe slop. I can tell you right now, it was catastrophic. It wouldn't surprise me if having solid mounts for your engine and trans, then weak shitty rubber for the subframe would cause vibrations. As much as the subframe moved around, I'm surprised it stayed under the car lol. The deflection of the subframe could, in theory, cause the guibo to bind, or cause a misalignment on the driveshaft angle. I'm not sure if the vibration is constant in the OP's car or if its under hard throttle and braking. But it could be that a set of rear bushing would now help.
Edit: never mind... Just saw the OP did the rest cradle mounts also.
Edit: never mind... Just saw the OP did the rest cradle mounts also.
06-25-2014, 06:17 PM
#18
after driving mine for a couple of days with new cradle, diff, trans and motor mounts is that all the slop that used to be in the car is now being applied solely to the driveshaft. I can actually feel the carrier bearing "buck" when its in reverse...feels like the clutch chattering but it doesn't do it in 1st.
time for a driveshaft overhaul!
time for a driveshaft overhaul!
06-25-2014, 08:29 PM
#20
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One more thing someone I know replaced his guibo with an aftermarket one from a reputable place and the place that did the work didn't let him even drive his car (cts v6 6speed) because the vibration was so bad. He ended up looking for 3 weeks for a factory one.