Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Decision: upgrade existing motor with 150k or buy a used Golen LS2 402?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-12-2014, 01:39 PM
  #1  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
LAYGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cross Roads, Tx
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Decision: upgrade existing motor with 150k or buy a used Golen LS2 402?

I've got an acquaintance (my girlfriend's friend's husband) who is selling an LS2 currently mounted in a '98 Camaro. Yesterday was the first time I've heard this thing running (there was a fuel line leak under the car, mechanic patched it). Once the put a charger on the battery, it started right up even though it hasn't ran since Thanksgiving.

Now that my mechanic & I have heard it, they don't think I'd enjoy driving this in my V. It does seem extreme as there was NO sort of wind up from idle to WOT. My mechanic believes it'd be no longer fun to drive daily. I want more HP, but not at the cost of a stop & go nightmare. Is the cam too extreme (I'm a total rookie when it comes to this stuff)? Can it be tamed with a tune? I don't mind losing some MPG for some more fun, but I don't want a headache. Would the heavier flywheel (not stock but not aluminum 11lb) help tame it some?

I've got to decide to on this in the next week or so. The guy is moving & does NOT want to move the car with him. I can probably get the motor for about $4500-$5000. It comes with complete documentation of being installed in March 2009, purchase receipt from Golen, the install costs & parts installed (see below). I've seen a dyno sheet that it makes 500 to the wheels (I need to find it) on his Camaro. It maybe has 10k-15k on the motor, but I suspect they're hard driven miles. Not necessarily track miles either.

On the whole, the guy seems nice & trusting (he gave me the keys to his house & Camaro while he was out of town to get the Camaro towed to the shop). I don't think he's lying about anything. I've sat with him for hours just BS'n about all kinds of things, not necessarily cars. My gut says he's legit.

FEEDBACK?

Idle surging, per the current owner, it's "the tune" (I forgot to capture the WOT blasts):


This is likely the package he bought in 2009:
https://www.golenengineservice.com/e...hp-replacement

His Golen receipt though says he paid $9220. Below is COPY/PASTED from his receipt, NOT from the Spec Sheet from Golen.

Chevy 402/550hP LS2

Cam: Comp Cams Hyd Roller

Operating Range: 2800-6500

ldle Quality: Good

Duration
lntake-236'@.050"
Exhaust -244'@ .050"

Lift
Intake - .602"
Exhaust - .610"

Lobe Separation: 112deg

Heads: L92 GM Heads

Type
Aluminum , Bowl Ported ,3 angle performance valve job, 64cc Combustion Chambers

Intake Valve
Manley Stainless Steel 2.19"

Exhaust Valve
Manley Stainless Steel 1.59"

Block: GM LS2 Aluminum Block, Line Honed with ARP Main Studs, Honed w/ torque plates 4.005" and pressure washed. New Cam Bearing installed.

Crankshaft: Callies 4340 Forged steel (Dynamicly Balanced)

Connecting Rods: Manley ultra Light H-Beam Forged 4340 , ARP 2000 Rod Bolts

Pistons: Mahle Forged Pistons with coatings

Rings: Mahle Plasma-Moly Rings

Rocker Arms: GM Factory rockers

Bearings: Clevite H-Series

Lifters: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller

Pushrods: Comp Cams Magnum Series 7.400"

Timing set: Manley Billet Double Roller with 9 keyway bottom gear and Torrington Bearing

Timing Gover: Factory LS2

Oil Delivery: Melling Select Performance

Gasket Set: Fel Pro Performance

Head Bolts: ARP Performance

lntake: L76 GM lntake with Fuel rails


MISC PARTS:
135-INJ-62 1031-B DELPHI/LUCAS 42 LB/HR HIGH-IMPEDENCE FUEL INJECTORS
B8-NW92 NICK WILLIAMS 92mm THROTTLE BODY, 1998-2002 LS1 F-BODY
12602544 GM Coolant Crossover Pipe
12602540 GM Air bleed pipe
12551933 GM Coolant Air Bleed Pipe Seal
12570427 L92 Left Aluminum Center Bolt Valve Cover
12580353 Ignition Coil Bracket
12570471 LS2/LS7 Valley Cover
12557840 GM Performance Parts Harmonic Balancer Bolts
MMK Prothane Motion Control Motor Mount Kit
TAM Torque Arm Mount Bushing
BS40640 Rear Main Seal
35635 GM Water Pump Gasket
OS30693R GM Oil Pan Gasket
4040410 Gatorback Poly-Belt
57080 Pilot Bearing
3951 NGK Spark Plugs
KAT-A4674 LS2/LS7 Fuel RailSpacer Kit
A1300 R1344 12oz
6511405 GM A/C Compressor
752 Battery Silver 752
P82425 Alternator Premium GM
S4184 GM OilPressure Switch
Old 07-12-2014, 02:56 PM
  #2  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
 
IdriveaV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: De
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

As long as the engine checks out and your mechanic says its legit, id go for the 402.
You figure with selling yours and how much you'll save on the 402, it'll turn out to be a pretty good deal.
I had my car retuned when I had my big cam and it helped clean up the surge/idle searching.
And if you get say a steel aftermarket flywheel I think that'll help a lot too.
Old 07-13-2014, 09:08 PM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
LAYGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cross Roads, Tx
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Also, my mechanic (a day to day mechanic, not a performance tuner/race shop) keeps pushing a "programmer". I've not heard of anyone on here running a "programmer". I've heard of HPTuner stuff, is that the same? I am kinda aware of what a tune is (ala mail order, dyno runs, tweak try again, etc), but never a "programmer". The way they compared it was to the classic "chip", but instead of a static setting, it was switchable.

To me, he sounds like a bunch of hooey. I had already decided that they were not going to be handling my engine swap should I do it & was considering SNL (unless ridiculously priced & then I'd just have then tune it).
Old 07-13-2014, 09:46 PM
  #4  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
 
IdriveaV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: De
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I would have a performance shop install and tune it.
No sense in having the tuner going in blind, they will have a better understanding of what they are working with if they are the shop that installs the motor.
whatever shop you use should use a tune, most likely the tune will be done with hptuners
Old 07-13-2014, 10:37 PM
  #5  
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
 
xbladr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

This is not something i would ever bring to your everday mechanic. Bring it to an all in one performance shop that has a good rep for quality work and tuning.
Old 07-14-2014, 01:51 AM
  #6  
Naf
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Naf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sandbox, Kuwait
Posts: 1,634
Received 18 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

Your buyin another persons problems...

I would buy a new engine and be done with it...This way you know what was put in and have peace of mind that its all fresh...
Old 07-14-2014, 08:31 AM
  #7  
Launching!
iTrader: (10)
 
Forcfed93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If the price is right, I'd go for it. If you're worried about drivability you can always swap a smaller cam while it's out.
Old 07-14-2014, 10:03 AM
  #8  
TECH Fanatic
 
ryridesmotox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Wildomar, CA
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I kinda agree with NAF. Why is he selling it, what kind of miles, how hard has it been run, maintenance, etc, etc.
Old 07-14-2014, 10:13 AM
  #9  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
LAYGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cross Roads, Tx
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ryridesmotox
I kinda agree with NAF. Why is he selling it, what kind of miles, how hard has it been run, maintenance, etc, etc.
The motor was breaking stuff on the rest of the car (suspension/axles) & he's moving in 2wks & does not want to pay to move it again.

I do not know the maintenance, but he's a pretty logical computer programmer like myself, so I would venture to guess he maintained it. I do expect that he drove it hard. When I first laid eyes on the car, the rear wheels you could tell had gotten pretty hot (rubber deposits melted near the sidewalls).
Old 07-15-2014, 06:01 AM
  #10  
On The Tree
 
steves ls6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Somone else's problem. Don't buy it.
Old 07-15-2014, 11:45 AM
  #11  
Launching!
iTrader: (10)
 
Forcfed93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Run a compression/leakdown test and grab an oil sample for analysis. That should tell you everything you need to know about the motor if you're unsure.
Old 07-15-2014, 11:48 AM
  #12  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
ls1247's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 2,413
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

You need to find put what kind of reluctor wheel it's got on the crank...may not be plug and play with your car. Search ls3 swap into ls6 car for more info

I'd jump into that with both feet
Old 07-15-2014, 04:40 PM
  #13  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
LAYGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cross Roads, Tx
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It's an LS2 & I have an LS2 (2006).
Old 07-15-2014, 04:45 PM
  #14  
On The Tree
 
Lbar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Philadelphia Area
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LAYGO
The motor was breaking stuff on the rest of the car (suspension/axles) & he's moving in 2wks & does not want to pay to move it again.
I could not justify the expense for a car that is only worth 10k. Consider what the V is worth + a realistic cost for engine/installation/tuning/clutch/extra parts needed. Then decide if you would rather have a different vehicle. Maybe even a well built lower mileage V1, LS2 C6 etc.
Old 07-15-2014, 05:17 PM
  #15  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
ls1247's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 2,413
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LAYGO
It's an LS2 & I have an LS2 (2006).
the motor was in an ls1 car....correct me if i'm wrong but it would be easier for the previous owner to convert the motor for use with the ls1 harness than it would be to convert the car for the ls2 reluctor wheel
Old 07-15-2014, 08:37 PM
  #16  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
LAYGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cross Roads, Tx
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ls1247
the motor was in an ls1 car....correct me if i'm wrong but it would be easier for the previous owner to convert the motor for use with the ls1 harness than it would be to convert the car for the ls2 reluctor wheel
I have the order number & will be giving Golen a call to verify. When I called earlier they were already closed.
Old 07-16-2014, 11:08 AM
  #17  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
LAYGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cross Roads, Tx
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

So, I spoke with Golen & part of the swap for an LS1 would be to put on a 24x reluctor wheel. So I have to see what color sensor is on my car compared to the motor to decide if they are the same. My car was built NOV 2005, sold as a 2006. The 24x/58x swap over occurred in 05/06.
Old 07-16-2014, 12:38 PM
  #18  
Launching!
iTrader: (10)
 
Forcfed93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LAYGO
So, I spoke with Golen & part of the swap for an LS1 would be to put on a 24x reluctor wheel. So I have to see what color sensor is on my car compared to the motor to decide if they are the same. My car was built NOV 2005, sold as a 2006. The 24x/58x swap over occurred in 05/06.
If you have an LS2, you have a 58x. If the car was an LS1 swap, it has (likely) a 24x. I know they make conversion boxes relatively cheaply that convert the 24x car to run a 58x motor.

I'm not sure, however, if they can also convert a 58x car to run a 24x motor. Lingenfelter makes them. Might try calling them.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...3#.U8a4bbHHni0
Old 07-16-2014, 01:23 PM
  #19  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
 
LAYGO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cross Roads, Tx
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Forcfed93
If you have an LS2, you have a 58x. If the car was an LS1 swap, it has (likely) a 24x. I know they make conversion boxes relatively cheaply that convert the 24x car to run a 58x motor.

I'm not sure, however, if they can also convert a 58x car to run a 24x motor. Lingenfelter makes them. Might try calling them.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...3#.U8a4bbHHni0
That's to stick a 58x in a 24x vehicle. I would (likely) need the other way around . . .
Old 07-16-2014, 01:46 PM
  #20  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
MN_V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

what's wrong with your engine is the question I want to ask. I see no reason an LS2 shouldn't make it to 250k+ miles.


Quick Reply: Decision: upgrade existing motor with 150k or buy a used Golen LS2 402?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:27 PM.