Decision: upgrade existing motor with 150k or buy a used Golen LS2 402?
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Decision: upgrade existing motor with 150k or buy a used Golen LS2 402?
I've got an acquaintance (my girlfriend's friend's husband) who is selling an LS2 currently mounted in a '98 Camaro. Yesterday was the first time I've heard this thing running (there was a fuel line leak under the car, mechanic patched it). Once the put a charger on the battery, it started right up even though it hasn't ran since Thanksgiving.
Now that my mechanic & I have heard it, they don't think I'd enjoy driving this in my V. It does seem extreme as there was NO sort of wind up from idle to WOT. My mechanic believes it'd be no longer fun to drive daily. I want more HP, but not at the cost of a stop & go nightmare. Is the cam too extreme (I'm a total rookie when it comes to this stuff)? Can it be tamed with a tune? I don't mind losing some MPG for some more fun, but I don't want a headache. Would the heavier flywheel (not stock but not aluminum 11lb) help tame it some?
I've got to decide to on this in the next week or so. The guy is moving & does NOT want to move the car with him. I can probably get the motor for about $4500-$5000. It comes with complete documentation of being installed in March 2009, purchase receipt from Golen, the install costs & parts installed (see below). I've seen a dyno sheet that it makes 500 to the wheels (I need to find it) on his Camaro. It maybe has 10k-15k on the motor, but I suspect they're hard driven miles. Not necessarily track miles either.
On the whole, the guy seems nice & trusting (he gave me the keys to his house & Camaro while he was out of town to get the Camaro towed to the shop). I don't think he's lying about anything. I've sat with him for hours just BS'n about all kinds of things, not necessarily cars. My gut says he's legit.
FEEDBACK?
Idle surging, per the current owner, it's "the tune" (I forgot to capture the WOT blasts):
This is likely the package he bought in 2009:
https://www.golenengineservice.com/e...hp-replacement
His Golen receipt though says he paid $9220. Below is COPY/PASTED from his receipt, NOT from the Spec Sheet from Golen.
Now that my mechanic & I have heard it, they don't think I'd enjoy driving this in my V. It does seem extreme as there was NO sort of wind up from idle to WOT. My mechanic believes it'd be no longer fun to drive daily. I want more HP, but not at the cost of a stop & go nightmare. Is the cam too extreme (I'm a total rookie when it comes to this stuff)? Can it be tamed with a tune? I don't mind losing some MPG for some more fun, but I don't want a headache. Would the heavier flywheel (not stock but not aluminum 11lb) help tame it some?
I've got to decide to on this in the next week or so. The guy is moving & does NOT want to move the car with him. I can probably get the motor for about $4500-$5000. It comes with complete documentation of being installed in March 2009, purchase receipt from Golen, the install costs & parts installed (see below). I've seen a dyno sheet that it makes 500 to the wheels (I need to find it) on his Camaro. It maybe has 10k-15k on the motor, but I suspect they're hard driven miles. Not necessarily track miles either.
On the whole, the guy seems nice & trusting (he gave me the keys to his house & Camaro while he was out of town to get the Camaro towed to the shop). I don't think he's lying about anything. I've sat with him for hours just BS'n about all kinds of things, not necessarily cars. My gut says he's legit.
FEEDBACK?
Idle surging, per the current owner, it's "the tune" (I forgot to capture the WOT blasts):
This is likely the package he bought in 2009:
https://www.golenengineservice.com/e...hp-replacement
His Golen receipt though says he paid $9220. Below is COPY/PASTED from his receipt, NOT from the Spec Sheet from Golen.
Chevy 402/550hP LS2
Cam: Comp Cams Hyd Roller
Operating Range: 2800-6500
ldle Quality: Good
Duration
lntake-236'@.050"
Exhaust -244'@ .050"
Lift
Intake - .602"
Exhaust - .610"
Lobe Separation: 112deg
Heads: L92 GM Heads
Type
Aluminum , Bowl Ported ,3 angle performance valve job, 64cc Combustion Chambers
Intake Valve
Manley Stainless Steel 2.19"
Exhaust Valve
Manley Stainless Steel 1.59"
Block: GM LS2 Aluminum Block, Line Honed with ARP Main Studs, Honed w/ torque plates 4.005" and pressure washed. New Cam Bearing installed.
Crankshaft: Callies 4340 Forged steel (Dynamicly Balanced)
Connecting Rods: Manley ultra Light H-Beam Forged 4340 , ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
Pistons: Mahle Forged Pistons with coatings
Rings: Mahle Plasma-Moly Rings
Rocker Arms: GM Factory rockers
Bearings: Clevite H-Series
Lifters: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller
Pushrods: Comp Cams Magnum Series 7.400"
Timing set: Manley Billet Double Roller with 9 keyway bottom gear and Torrington Bearing
Timing Gover: Factory LS2
Oil Delivery: Melling Select Performance
Gasket Set: Fel Pro Performance
Head Bolts: ARP Performance
lntake: L76 GM lntake with Fuel rails
MISC PARTS:
135-INJ-62 1031-B DELPHI/LUCAS 42 LB/HR HIGH-IMPEDENCE FUEL INJECTORS
B8-NW92 NICK WILLIAMS 92mm THROTTLE BODY, 1998-2002 LS1 F-BODY
12602544 GM Coolant Crossover Pipe
12602540 GM Air bleed pipe
12551933 GM Coolant Air Bleed Pipe Seal
12570427 L92 Left Aluminum Center Bolt Valve Cover
12580353 Ignition Coil Bracket
12570471 LS2/LS7 Valley Cover
12557840 GM Performance Parts Harmonic Balancer Bolts
MMK Prothane Motion Control Motor Mount Kit
TAM Torque Arm Mount Bushing
BS40640 Rear Main Seal
35635 GM Water Pump Gasket
OS30693R GM Oil Pan Gasket
4040410 Gatorback Poly-Belt
57080 Pilot Bearing
3951 NGK Spark Plugs
KAT-A4674 LS2/LS7 Fuel RailSpacer Kit
A1300 R1344 12oz
6511405 GM A/C Compressor
752 Battery Silver 752
P82425 Alternator Premium GM
S4184 GM OilPressure Switch
Cam: Comp Cams Hyd Roller
Operating Range: 2800-6500
ldle Quality: Good
Duration
lntake-236'@.050"
Exhaust -244'@ .050"
Lift
Intake - .602"
Exhaust - .610"
Lobe Separation: 112deg
Heads: L92 GM Heads
Type
Aluminum , Bowl Ported ,3 angle performance valve job, 64cc Combustion Chambers
Intake Valve
Manley Stainless Steel 2.19"
Exhaust Valve
Manley Stainless Steel 1.59"
Block: GM LS2 Aluminum Block, Line Honed with ARP Main Studs, Honed w/ torque plates 4.005" and pressure washed. New Cam Bearing installed.
Crankshaft: Callies 4340 Forged steel (Dynamicly Balanced)
Connecting Rods: Manley ultra Light H-Beam Forged 4340 , ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
Pistons: Mahle Forged Pistons with coatings
Rings: Mahle Plasma-Moly Rings
Rocker Arms: GM Factory rockers
Bearings: Clevite H-Series
Lifters: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller
Pushrods: Comp Cams Magnum Series 7.400"
Timing set: Manley Billet Double Roller with 9 keyway bottom gear and Torrington Bearing
Timing Gover: Factory LS2
Oil Delivery: Melling Select Performance
Gasket Set: Fel Pro Performance
Head Bolts: ARP Performance
lntake: L76 GM lntake with Fuel rails
MISC PARTS:
135-INJ-62 1031-B DELPHI/LUCAS 42 LB/HR HIGH-IMPEDENCE FUEL INJECTORS
B8-NW92 NICK WILLIAMS 92mm THROTTLE BODY, 1998-2002 LS1 F-BODY
12602544 GM Coolant Crossover Pipe
12602540 GM Air bleed pipe
12551933 GM Coolant Air Bleed Pipe Seal
12570427 L92 Left Aluminum Center Bolt Valve Cover
12580353 Ignition Coil Bracket
12570471 LS2/LS7 Valley Cover
12557840 GM Performance Parts Harmonic Balancer Bolts
MMK Prothane Motion Control Motor Mount Kit
TAM Torque Arm Mount Bushing
BS40640 Rear Main Seal
35635 GM Water Pump Gasket
OS30693R GM Oil Pan Gasket
4040410 Gatorback Poly-Belt
57080 Pilot Bearing
3951 NGK Spark Plugs
KAT-A4674 LS2/LS7 Fuel RailSpacer Kit
A1300 R1344 12oz
6511405 GM A/C Compressor
752 Battery Silver 752
P82425 Alternator Premium GM
S4184 GM OilPressure Switch
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As long as the engine checks out and your mechanic says its legit, id go for the 402.
You figure with selling yours and how much you'll save on the 402, it'll turn out to be a pretty good deal.
I had my car retuned when I had my big cam and it helped clean up the surge/idle searching.
And if you get say a steel aftermarket flywheel I think that'll help a lot too.
You figure with selling yours and how much you'll save on the 402, it'll turn out to be a pretty good deal.
I had my car retuned when I had my big cam and it helped clean up the surge/idle searching.
And if you get say a steel aftermarket flywheel I think that'll help a lot too.
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Also, my mechanic (a day to day mechanic, not a performance tuner/race shop) keeps pushing a "programmer". I've not heard of anyone on here running a "programmer". I've heard of HPTuner stuff, is that the same? I am kinda aware of what a tune is (ala mail order, dyno runs, tweak try again, etc), but never a "programmer". The way they compared it was to the classic "chip", but instead of a static setting, it was switchable.
To me, he sounds like a bunch of hooey. I had already decided that they were not going to be handling my engine swap should I do it & was considering SNL (unless ridiculously priced & then I'd just have then tune it).
To me, he sounds like a bunch of hooey. I had already decided that they were not going to be handling my engine swap should I do it & was considering SNL (unless ridiculously priced & then I'd just have then tune it).
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I would have a performance shop install and tune it.
No sense in having the tuner going in blind, they will have a better understanding of what they are working with if they are the shop that installs the motor.
whatever shop you use should use a tune, most likely the tune will be done with hptuners
No sense in having the tuner going in blind, they will have a better understanding of what they are working with if they are the shop that installs the motor.
whatever shop you use should use a tune, most likely the tune will be done with hptuners
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I do not know the maintenance, but he's a pretty logical computer programmer like myself, so I would venture to guess he maintained it. I do expect that he drove it hard. When I first laid eyes on the car, the rear wheels you could tell had gotten pretty hot (rubber deposits melted near the sidewalls).
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I could not justify the expense for a car that is only worth 10k. Consider what the V is worth + a realistic cost for engine/installation/tuning/clutch/extra parts needed. Then decide if you would rather have a different vehicle. Maybe even a well built lower mileage V1, LS2 C6 etc.
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So, I spoke with Golen & part of the swap for an LS1 would be to put on a 24x reluctor wheel. So I have to see what color sensor is on my car compared to the motor to decide if they are the same. My car was built NOV 2005, sold as a 2006. The 24x/58x swap over occurred in 05/06.
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So, I spoke with Golen & part of the swap for an LS1 would be to put on a 24x reluctor wheel. So I have to see what color sensor is on my car compared to the motor to decide if they are the same. My car was built NOV 2005, sold as a 2006. The 24x/58x swap over occurred in 05/06.
I'm not sure, however, if they can also convert a 58x car to run a 24x motor. Lingenfelter makes them. Might try calling them.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...3#.U8a4bbHHni0
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If you have an LS2, you have a 58x. If the car was an LS1 swap, it has (likely) a 24x. I know they make conversion boxes relatively cheaply that convert the 24x car to run a 58x motor.
I'm not sure, however, if they can also convert a 58x car to run a 24x motor. Lingenfelter makes them. Might try calling them.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...3#.U8a4bbHHni0
I'm not sure, however, if they can also convert a 58x car to run a 24x motor. Lingenfelter makes them. Might try calling them.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...3#.U8a4bbHHni0