AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Well, it worked for me. (OK, that's based on only a 5-10min test drive so far, but hopefully that will remain true.)

Here's where I was to begin with:


I pulled the CPS off, then marked the pushrod with a red paint pen before disconnecting the rod from the pedal (newly acquired pick did the job on the e-clip). I unthreaded the rod back to the "default" red mark to see how they compared - I was 8 or 9 half-turns past the default mark. (Hard to be exact due to the visual parallax of looking up at an angle with my head on the floorboard.)



Going back in time a few months, when I installed the PMC initially I ended up at that 8 or 9 half-turns by following the instuctions - push the pedal down to see if it contacts the hard stop, if not, adjust the pushrod length and try again. I used a piece of paper on the hard stop and checked each time to see if I could pull the paper out. Today, after adjusting the pushrod back to the default red mark, I did the check again and found that the pedal was hitting the hard stop. I can't really explain the discrepancy in what I observed during the initial install and what I observed today.

I took it out for a spin and was able to use the cruise control, which was my test to see if the ECU was happy with the clutch position switch. I'm taking a longer drive tomorrow morning (30min or so, including some highway time) so we'll see how that goes.

On the down side, now my clutch pick-up point is higher than I like. Annoyingly high, like rev-the-engine-too-high-like-I've-never-driven-stick-before-because-I'm-expecting-the-clutch-to-have-already-engaged-by-now too high. I think the fix to that would be to remove the pushrod, trim off ~1/4" (the difference between the red marks), then reinstall it to the default red mark. That should give me the same clutch pick-up point that I had before, but would keep the CPS happy.

Oh, and I also found that one of the wires to the CPS got pinched or something at some point, so the insulation is cut. The wire inside seems OK. I didn't do anything to try to fix it - there's just no frickin' way I can get my hands up in there to even wrap some tape around it, let alone accomplish an actual fix. There's not enough slack in the wiring to pull it down to access the bad spot, and I can't reach the wiring bundle the harness disappears into to try and cut away some tape to get more slack. For now it'll just have to stay as-is.



Old slave or old master? I've had 2 slave cylinders die, and those are both long gone. I'm not sure if I kept my stock master or not - I think I tossed it, but I'll check again if that's what you're looking for.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for doing the detective work on this! I've adjusted the rod a several times but haven't gone into the detail you have here. Guess I'll have to suck it up and dive back into it.

I could readjust the rod and the light would go out for a while but come back on after 200 to 500 miles.

I'll need to reread about the hard stop. I guess I'm confused as I'd think you'd want it hitting the hard stop under the dash so you don't bottom the cylinder out internally. I think it's already been addressed in this thread somewhere. Is your cylinder currently stopping short of the hard stop on the pedal assembly?

I'm with you on access to the connector. That was one reason I was going to wait until I have the dash apart for something else to mess with it further. If you could easily access it, it would be a lot easier to figure out what the car is thinking. Just stick a dab of silicon on the wire nick.

Tall pedal height would be more annoying the SES light and I meant to say clutch master. I didn't save mine but kinda wished I had at this point.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I've got it adjusted so that the pedal does hit the hard stop on the pedal assembly, so it will not bottom out the MC. What I don't particularly understand is that I thought I had set it up that way to begin with (following the install instructions...)
When I did the initial install, with the pushrod at the red default mark, the pedal was not hitting the hard stop on the pedal assembly, and I ended up having to go ~4 full turns past the default mark to get it to hit the hard stop. Now that I've backed the pushrod off to the default mark, I'm still hitting the hard stop.

Good call.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Silicon will do it, here's what I've used in the past in similarly tight areas: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-fl-oz...ape-36821.html

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

^^^ That's actually what I was thinking of using, but ls1247's comment jogged my memory that I need to buy some of that stuff.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Plasti-dip makes the stuff in clear if you don't want a black blob under there. I think it is in a spray can but spray on small brush and brush on likely works fine..also maybe a spray tube. Then again, if clear, overspray under the dash will likely never be noticed. Just practice on your face out of the car before in the car under the dash so you know how much you want on your face. I have personally used the spray stuff and it is fantastic. I used it regularly to cover the battery connections on my 4-wheelers that saw big time mud. Eventually cures to a sort of stiffness you get after good tape has been heated a few times. Just stiff enough to be able to nick and edge with your thumbnail and peel it back--seemed to come off clean, too.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

LMAO!

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Got the new design pushrod (with the locking set screw) and went through the multiple hour drill of swapping the pushrods out. I was somewhat concerned the old pushrod, without the set screw, could change position over time, so I contacted Philistine and had him send me the new version. (My thinking was that the P0833 codes may have started because the pushrod was gradually changing length as the pedal was cycled thousands of times over thousands of miles, until it got to the point the clutch position switch wasn't making proper contact at the top of the stroke.)

It was definitely a challenge to get the set screw tight. Just hard to line things up to get the allen wrench into the set screw while holding the pushrod in position. I ended up pulling the pushrod back off, getting a rough measurement of how much thread engagement there would be, then threaded the set screw into about the right position and reinstalled the pushrod. My first attempt was a little off - pushrod was too long - so I took it back off, threaded the set screw in a few more turns and tried again. Got it that time, then just had to put the allen wrench in to put a little torque on the set screw (rather than having to thread the set screw in multiple turns).

One nice side benefit of adjusting the pushrod to clear the P0833 codes is that the shifting is better now. Apparently with the pushrod threaded on a bit too far the pedal wasn't stroking the master far enough. Everything feels a bit smoother, and getting into reverse is significantly easier.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

AAIIC, is this how you're clutch arm is currently adjusted?????

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Yes - per step #13 of the install instructions (see post #323).

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I was hoping I would have enough "grace" in the adjustment to turn the light off without upsetting clutch performance but that's doesn't seem to be the case. How much luck has anyone had adjusting the rod length to change engagement height without affecting the clutch?

AAIIC, Let us know if the light comes back on.

You didn't take pics of the new rod did you???

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I didn't take any pics of the new one. I know Philistine said it's got a different surface finish, but to my eye it looks the same as the old one. The obvious exception, of course, is that there's a hole in the top of the "eye" of it and it's threaded all the way through to allow for the set screw.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

The surface finish goes through conditioning before final machining of the internal threads. The rod-arm goes through a type of aluminum stripper solution where about 4mils (max) are removed. This helps remove some of the tooling marks. I boil it to seal. Then I take it through an aggressive tumbler media to smooth any rough edges. The final polishing is also accomplished with tumbler media (for polishing) which gives a near mirror finish.

Since the rod-arm seats inside the clutch position sensor switch, there is a friction surface with the rod-arm and the switch as it is cycled. The idea is to mitigate the friction for smoother action. The 7075 aluminum rod-arm only comes into contact with the plastic surface of the clutch switch so there is essentially no wear to the rod-arm. Once the rod-arm is properly positioned, there is good agreement with the contact surfaces to glide easily in/out with essentially no wear to either component.

The new surface finish is not a requirement for proper engagement. I was experimenting with anodizing on a different project and decided to augment the rod-arm. It's an optimization process for the clutch master kits.

On a side note, I hope you installed the spring washer I sent along with the new rod-arm. Every kit now comes with the spring washer and I've sent a dozen or so of those free of charge to anyone that wants it. A few experienced some unwanted "clicking" noise from cycling the clutch pedal and the spring washer is the cure. It really snugs the rod-arm to the clutch pedal pivot component. The suggestion came from a fellow V member and am thankful for the feedback - you guys help make this kit better!

Thanks!

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I did install the spring washer. I haven't noticed any change as far as those goes - I get noise from the clutch pedal, but I'm fairly certain it's the spring, and it's loud enough that if the rod-arm was clicking I would never hear it.

slvrvee

I finally got around to installing this mc an wanted to share a tip that made the install a lot easier, not sure if anyone did this but, I removed the E-brake pedal and set it to the side. This freed up a lot of space to work with. I had no trouble putting on the collar an also tightening the set screws which are clearly visible. Also connecting the rod arm to the pedal was a breeze.

slvrvee

One more pic

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

That's definitely way more room to work with! How hard was it to remove the parking brake pedal?

slvrvee

You just have to remove two nuts, an it comes right out

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Coming back to this one months later...

Your car must be built differently than mine, because there's no way my parking brake pedal is coming out with just a couple nuts!

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

If the nuts are big enough...