Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Single inline pump?

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Old 09-30-2014, 07:08 PM
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Default Single inline pump?

Anyone here done a single inline pump set up? 600-800hp.
I'm about start getting pieces to redo my fuel system. I already have an aeromotive 340, on a Hotwire, and was planning on adding a second in the bucket. Using philistines write up as my bible.
However, I'm not 100% on using duel pumps, if one fails it could be disasterous under boost.
I also wouldn't want to do an inline and simply plug into the bottom tank.
I was thinking about running a pick up into the bucket, taking out the stock fpr, and have a return to dump back into the bucket.
What are people's thoughts?
Old 09-30-2014, 07:28 PM
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I've done several checks on my fuel system and there is something that I did not anticipate. Fuel flow follows voltage and even a hotwire at the battery, the voltage dips from 14.2 to 13.0. Although this swing is gradual, it affects fuel pressure...dramatically. From my readings as much as 10 psi.

I did countless static and dynamic checks on the grounds and everything is sound. Every relay, every wire is perfect. I changed out the blade fuses with the Racetronix kit with circuit breakers to cut down on the resistance which made a huge impact. However, after all my readings I've come to the conclusion that the alternator is suspect. Not that my alternator is bad but that it is insufficient - not high performance.

I hate setting money on fire with stupid upgrades but my road has led me to replacing the stock alternator with a Mechman:

http://fastlanepartssupply.com/shop/...mp-alternator/

Sometimes they have them listed on ebay for a little less. From experience, a hotwire at the alternator swings even more so the battery is much more stable for your power connections.

My plan is to upgrade the alternator. I've chased down everything and it all leads to it.

So my advice is alternator first THEN seek additional fuel pump(s). The voltage really drops when I have both in operation...to about 12.5 V.
Old 09-30-2014, 07:43 PM
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Definitely something to keep in mind. So you are saying to Hotwire at the battery vs at the alternator?
It's too bad there are some nice pumps for the camaro , which are a single turbine, for higher hp.
Suppose there is nobody out there that bought one to see if they'd fit in our tank, seeing as the are quite pricey.
Old 09-30-2014, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tommycompton
Definitely something to keep in mind. So you are saying to Hotwire at the battery vs at the alternator?
Yes, that experience comes from waaaay more than me testing. That comes from multiple speedshops and from some of the best tuners in the business. That comes from guys tuning the salt flats, dragstrips, dyno etc on multiple car monsters with as many as 3-5 fuel pumps.
Old 10-01-2014, 12:17 AM
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Also been looking at the walbro 485. Trying to find more info on it, might be a viable single pump option, with boost a pump and Hotwire. Might get me the flow I need with a regulator and return line. Would be a simple set up.
Old 10-01-2014, 02:03 AM
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The 1020 Kyosan/Denso 300LPH high pressure fuel pump is a good option up to 800hp. I run this fuel pump in my setup.
Old 10-01-2014, 10:25 AM
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Tommy, is there a specific reason why you wouldn't want to to just put a sump in the bottom of the stock tank ran to the Aeromotive inline pump?
Old 10-01-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tmonttt
Tommy, is there a specific reason why you wouldn't want to to just put a sump in the bottom of the stock tank ran to the Aeromotive inline pump?
Or better yet, cut out the spare tire well and put a fuel cell in it. Putting 15 gallons of fuel behind the axle can only help performance and with 600+ horsepower, safety isn't a bad thing.
Old 10-01-2014, 11:05 AM
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That's kinda what I was thinking, using the existing bucket, where I would have the inline pick up fuel, and return to the stock bucket. But not have a pump in the bucket.
My thinking was, if the return and pickup tube were in the bucket I wouldn't have low fuel problems from fuel slosh.
Seems easier than relying on a duel pump set up or a sump pump with an inline?
Was wondering why it wouldn't be possible or if others have done it.
Old 10-01-2014, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1247
Or better yet, cut out the spare tire well and put a fuel cell in it. Putting 15 gallons of fuel behind the axle can only help performance and with 600+ horsepower, safety isn't a bad thing.
Can't do that, my methanol injection tank is there lol
Old 10-02-2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tmonttt
Tommy, is there a specific reason why you wouldn't want to to just put a sump in the bottom of the stock tank ran to the Aeromotive inline pump?

Kinda like this.
I think there is a hump in our tank. I could run one on each side feeding an aeromotive a1000.
Run the return from the regulator to the top of the oem bucket, and retain the stock fuel level guage. Would have to check for available space.
Thoughts?
Old 10-02-2014, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by VeryWhiteDevil
The 1020 Kyosan/Denso 300LPH high pressure fuel pump is a good option up to 800hp. I run this fuel pump in my setup.
Shouldn't my aeromotive 340 already outflow the kyosan?
So adding a return and regulator could get me where I need to be.
Maybe I'm thinking overkill with an inline, or dual pump at this point?
There is also the kyosan 390 out there.
Old 10-02-2014, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by philistine
Yes, that experience comes from waaaay more than me testing. That comes from multiple speedshops and from some of the best tuners in the business. That comes from guys tuning the salt flats, dragstrips, dyno etc on multiple car monsters with as many as 3-5 fuel pumps.
Well after much reading, I think my plan is a single walbro 450 on my existing Hotwire and boost a pump (may not even need the bap, so I can turn the volume down on it.) it's boost switched on 5psi at the moment.
I'll take out the intank regulator, and put an adjustable at the fuel rails, with a return to the bucket.
It's that or the sump with an a1000 inline, but leaning towards the intank.
Also read those denso pumps draw the most amps(between walbro 255, aeromotive 340, and the kyosan 290) so running two of them I can understand your voltage drop.
I think if I did doubles, it would be dual 340s or kyosans.
I also think the bap on a single pump would help stabilize the voltage.?

Last edited by tommycompton; 10-02-2014 at 04:26 PM.
Old 10-02-2014, 04:45 PM
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Sounds like a plan. Is the in tank regulator plug for the Cts-v the same as the vette?
Old 10-02-2014, 05:27 PM
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Not sure where the corvette regulator is, wether it's in the tank or the filter.
Old 10-02-2014, 05:39 PM
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It's in the tank. Visually very similar to ours, was just wondering if the block off plug used to remove it is the same.
Old 10-02-2014, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tommycompton

Kinda like this.
I think there is a hump in our tank. I could run one on each side feeding an aeromotive a1000.
Run the return from the regulator to the top of the oem bucket, and retain the stock fuel level guage. Would have to check for available space.
Thoughts?
There is a hump on the tank but it fits like a glove when it's installed. There is very low ceiling on the fuel module fittings. I have -8AN fittings and it clears but eveything is pretty much cramped.

As far as voltage regulation, yeah a BAP would do it. I'm biased when it comes to a BAP - just me, I don't care for them. I see the stock alternator as the root problem and do not want to work around it. I've been to enough speedshops and car shows etc to see how popular a BAP is and they do work - very well. They also fail...and so do the pumps and it's a miserable day when that happens.

Be careful about putting in a giant pump. With a full return, fuel at the rails is picking up a lot of heat and dumping it right back where the prime suction is located. I chose medium pumps (320lph) so that I can minimize the heat generated by the pump. The secondary as I mentioned before is strictly activated by boost @2psi. That will compensate for any transients and hard accelerations and of course high horsepower requirements. Basically, where one pump falls off, the other picks up with an overlap in flow but never on at the same time while DD or at least while cruising.

Hope that helps.
Old 10-02-2014, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by philistine
There is a hump on the tank but it fits like a glove when it's installed. There is very low ceiling on the fuel module fittings. I have -8AN fittings and it clears but eveything is pretty much cramped.
Do you have a pic of where you guys are talking about? I'm not quite sure I understand where you are talking about.
Old 10-02-2014, 06:07 PM
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This is about the best pic I have the fuel tank when I had it out testing multiple pumps etc.



I had it perched here checking the clearances - it's a very tight fit.
Old 10-02-2014, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by philistine

As far as voltage regulation, yeah a BAP would do it. I'm biased when it comes to a BAP - just me, I don't care for them. I see the stock alternator as the root problem and do not want to work around it. I've been to enough speedshops and car shows etc to see how popular a BAP is and they do work - very well. They also fail...and so do the pumps and it's a miserable day when that happens.

Be careful about putting in a giant pump. With a full return, fuel at the rails is picking up a lot of heat and dumping it right back where the prime suction is .
It almost boils down to wether you trust a boost a pump or a fuel pump. I do have faith in the kenne bell bap . Googling Kenne bell bap failure is like googling chuck Norris gets his *** kicked, you get 0 hits. Fuel pumps on the other hand...lol
So many variables though, as you have pointed out.
Hp ratings on all the pumps are so all over the place depending where you hear it from, it makes it hard to choose what will be enough for a single intank pump, or if a single intank will be enough.


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