Banski RSM install Q
#1
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Banski RSM install Q
I just finished installing the Banski RSM's from the group buy and noticed that I could see daylight at the edge of the plate inside the wheel well and into the trunk. Our cars don't have any shock cover/cap in the trunk and frankly I don't want water even getting that close to the interior of this car.
Does anybody else have any concerns about this?
I think what I'm going to do is get a sheet of thin rubber and cut it out to match the shape of the plate (maybe even slightly oversized) and install it between the plate and the body. On top of doing that I'm going to run a bead of RTV around the edge of the plate to seal off that area and ensure that no water collects and pools up top.
I generally don't Plan on driving in the rain, but on occasion it happens and water usually finds those kinds of ratholes with ease.
Does anybody else have any concerns about this?
I think what I'm going to do is get a sheet of thin rubber and cut it out to match the shape of the plate (maybe even slightly oversized) and install it between the plate and the body. On top of doing that I'm going to run a bead of RTV around the edge of the plate to seal off that area and ensure that no water collects and pools up top.
I generally don't Plan on driving in the rain, but on occasion it happens and water usually finds those kinds of ratholes with ease.
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4doortypels (10-13-2023)
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These top mounts come with a thick rubber washer that goes under the mount. Mine aren't looking so hot:
I emailed the guy about replacing those with something more durable, but his response kind of didn't make sense and I never followed up on it. Anyone else see the rubber degrading like this, and if so, what have you done to fix it?
I emailed the guy about replacing those with something more durable, but his response kind of didn't make sense and I never followed up on it. Anyone else see the rubber degrading like this, and if so, what have you done to fix it?
#4
I bought two extra kits in case I needed a replacement part or wanted reference material to improve the design. The purpose of the rubber is to improve NVH but I don't think it's thick enough to do much. The stainless "eyeball" plates could be thicker and seal the gap area. The nuts and bolts should be stainless and I'd love to make the bolts captive to make installation less painful.
I was thinking of mocking up a replacement plate in Solidworks and sending it off to get made in 1/4" 316SS. It'd be easy to tack weld 316L bolts in the holes to finish the assembly. For isolation, you could either cut your own using a rubber sheet to or get full-face soft polyurethane covers made.
I was thinking of mocking up a replacement plate in Solidworks and sending it off to get made in 1/4" 316SS. It'd be easy to tack weld 316L bolts in the holes to finish the assembly. For isolation, you could either cut your own using a rubber sheet to or get full-face soft polyurethane covers made.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 08-03-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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This completely seals once suspension is loaded. $15.
http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/o...1.jpg~original
http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/o...1.jpg~original
So what is that boot from? Just a generic shock boot?
I'm not worried about the seal, I'm worried about the fact that there's a chunk of rubber in the stack of parts for the spherical upper bearing, and that rubber is not surviving.
Last edited by AAIIIC; 09-18-2018 at 10:04 AM.