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Alright Gents,
I've been waiting to do a clutch install and while I have the trans out I'm attempting to get my most bang for the buck by changing rear main seal, shifter bushings, slave, etc.
Basically I'm looking for a replacement for the bushings circled below. Fuzzy was working with someone and they had a few sets made from bronze that looked to fit the bill and then it suddenly went cold.
If anyone has any leads I'd sure appreciate the help.
I have your shifter along with the bronze bushings shown (not installed yet)
I feel like I have excessive play while in gear (1.5" plus) and just want to make sure I get it addressed while I can. Do you think once I install your bronze bushing that it'll take up most of the excess?
I think all that play is in the ball and socket joint. The bronze bushings I sent you will take care of one side of the joint. Some of us have welded the other side so it doesn't move and some have drilled out the inner portion where pin is so it all fits tighter with a larger pin.
What do you call those bronze bushings....or the thing they go in....shift shaft coupler?
Bronze shift shaft coupler bushings?
My shifter was really bad, like 1.5" free play side-to-side in gear. Now I'm down to about 1/2" and its very free. I know its not from the shifter ball, nor the bottom of the shifter where the link bare attaches. Those tolerances have been taken up
So there are about 5 things more I can do
Shift shaft coupler bushings
shift shaft coupler rollpin or tack weld
bronze shift cup (inside transmission)
home depot bushings (shifter carrier mounting rods to trans)
What do you call those bronze bushings....or the thing they go in....shift shaft coupler?
Bronze shift shaft coupler bushings?
My shifter was really bad, like 1.5" free play side-to-side in gear. Now I'm down to about 1/2" and its very free. I know its not from the shifter ball, nor the bottom of the shifter where the link bare attaches. Those tolerances have been taken up
So there are about 5 things more I can do
Shift shaft coupler bushings
shift shaft coupler rollpin or tack weld
bronze shift cup (inside transmission)
home depot bushings (shifter carrier mounting rods to trans)
CS poly bushings (for shifter carrier to body)
I have the shift cup as well, I keep reading about people installing it and it being too tight and giving them issues.
I also bought the home depot bushings, I was just hoping someone was working on a better solution before I went that route.
I replaced the bushings you have circled with the gray plastic electrical fittings from Home Depot. I welded the lateral pivot point right next to where your bronze bushing is sitting in the picture. I initially replaced the plastic shift isolator cup inside the trans with a bronze piece from the gear box, but it ended up being too tight and was later replaced with a new plastic OEM piece. I've read of at least one other instance of an ill fitting cup from the gear box, so if you decide to go bronze, I'd buy it from Tick. I also installed Brian's bushings in the bottom of his modified shifter and in the forward linkage, creative steel poly bushings in the shifter mount, and RevShift motor mounts and trans mount insert.
After all of that, the shifter in my car feels about 90% as good as the factory setup in my subaru. It was all money and effort well spent as it took what I disliked most about the V and made it good enough that I bitch about other short comings now. Funny, just when I start to think it feels pretty good, I jump into one of my other Japenese cars, and I'm quickly reminded of crappy GM engineering.
I replaced the bushings you have circled with the gray plastic electrical fittings from Home Depot. I welded the lateral pivot point right next to where your bronze bushing is sitting in the picture. I initially replaced the plastic shift isolator cup inside the trans with a bronze piece from the gear box, but it ended up being too tight and was later replaced with a new plastic OEM piece. I've read of at least one other instance of an ill fitting cup from the gear box, so if you decide to go bronze, I'd buy it from Tick. I also installed Brian's bushings in the bottom of his modified shifter, creative steel poly bushings in the shifter mount, and RevShift motor mounts and trans mount insert.
After all of that, the shifter in my car feels about 90% as good as the factory setup in my subaru. It was all money and effort well spent as it took what I disliked most about the V and made it good enough that I bitch about other short comings now. Funny, just when I start to think it feels pretty good, I jump into one of my other Japenese cars, and I'm quickly reminded of crappy GM engineering.
That's kind of my goal, the shifter is still 100% better than stock but I'd still like to reduce the slop a little.
home depot bushings (shifter carrier mounting rods to trans)
CS poly bushings (for shifter carrier to body)
I'm surprised you haven't done the CS poly bushings already, as that's typically the first thing everyone does (when they replace the shifter itself). On both my car and my brother's car, replacing those made a big difference in getting rid of slop - particularly on my brother's as his car was higher mileage and the stock bushings were completely trashed.
I'm surprised you haven't done the CS poly bushings already, as that's typically the first thing everyone does (when they replace the shifter itself). On both my car and my brother's car, replacing those made a big difference in getting rid of slop - particularly on my brother's as his car was higher mileage and the stock bushings were completely trashed.
My car was super low mileage and my stock one (just one side) was trashed. I assume someone parked it in gear on a hill without the e-brake pretty often.
That's kind of my goal, the shifter is still 100% better than stock but I'd still like to reduce the slop a little.
FWIW, if I ever have my trans out of the car again, and sitting in my own garage, not at the shop, I might mess around with shimming the spring detent mechanism to smooth out the fore/aft movement of the shifter. Not to be confused with the spring and ball detent on the side of the transmission that affects the left/right movement. There's one along the central axis on the trans case and I'd have to find the pictures again to recall exactly where.
FWIW, if I ever have my trans out of the car again, and sitting in my own garage, not at the shop, I might mess around with shimming the spring detent mechanism to smooth out the fore/aft movement of the shifter. Not to be confused with the spring and ball detent on the side of the transmission that affects the left/right movement. There's one along the central axis on the trans case and I'd have to find the pictures again to recall exactly where.
Great idea.
So far this is what I have planned or completed:
CS support rod bushings (Installed)
07CTS-V Shifter (Installed)
07CTS-V Bronze bushing for Tremec U Joint (Not installed)
Philistine MC Kit (Not installed)
Tick bronze selector cup (Not installed)
Home Depot remote linkage bushings (Not installed)
1/4 roll pin for Tremec U Joint (Not installed)
If anyone has any more suggestions please let me know.
I'm surprised you haven't done the CS poly bushings already, as that's typically the first thing everyone does (when they replace the shifter itself).
Mine look like they are in good shape. From under the car pushing around the shifter base theres not any wiggle.
Slop.... I guess there is varying degrees of this.. Currently I have about a 1/2" of "free play " where the shifter can move left an right with just one finger on top and no resistance. I suppose there is some squishy compliance after the free but it not noticeable now. I guess this is where the CS and HD bushings would come into play, but a little bit of compliance seem it would be beneficial.
In a pm from Brian (07ctsv/pisnuoff) he actually advised against the HD bushings, saying they do little if anything to help but can introduce some vibrations into the shifter.
As mentioned above, I have every shifter mod that I know of, including Brian's shifter which has the rubber isolator removed between the two halves. Yes I can feel a bit more vibration through the shifter than stock, but stock was floating in mashed potatoes so the bar was set high in that respect. Had I never driven the car in stock form, I don't think I would have ever mentioned vibration issues from the shifter, especially in comparison with my other manual trans cars.
Mine look like they are in good shape. From under the car pushing around the shifter base theres not any wiggle.
Slop.... I guess there is varying degrees of this.. Currently I have about a 1/2" of "free play " where the shifter can move left an right with just one finger on top and no resistance. I suppose there is some squishy compliance after the free but it not noticeable now. I guess this is where the CS and HD bushings would come into play, but a little bit of compliance seem it would be beneficial.
In a pm from Brian (07ctsv/pisnuoff) he actually advised against the HD bushings, saying they do little if anything to help but can introduce some vibrations into the shifter.
In a linkage system there will always be play, slop, whatever, in the system. Just the way it is. The only way to completely remove all slop is to remove the linkage system. But we can't
In a linkage system there will always be play, slop, whatever, in the system. Just the way it is. The only way to completely remove all slop is to remove the linkage system. But we can't
True, and with our cars setup (tying the shifter to the body) you need some slop somewhere to allow for engine/transmission motion independent of the body.
12-31-2014, 11:14 PM
Shifter remote linkage bushings? 
