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Well I've finished grafting fans into factory shroud. Total cost $195 for fans and JB weld water plastic putty. Cheapos are better than stock fans and quieter.
I used Zirgo 1248's p/n ZFB12S. Also installed new pass headrest and CTS center arm rest!
That is nicely done! But, why? Wouldn't the thin flush mount (direct to radiator) work the same? or actually better? When you had the shroud out.... a lot of people, cut holes or patterns in the shroud so air flows better. Helps with cooling, hurts ac efficiency (recirculates the air).
Oh good point, because the stock is so thick you can easily destroy the tin foil stock radiator pulling in and out. Also it flows better than stock and.....it was something to do and wanted to do myself. Plus.....It's got to be good for 30 HP huh?
Well I've finished grafting fans into factory shroud. Total cost $195 for fans and JB weld water plastic putty. Cheapos are better than stock fans and quieter.
It's hard to tell from the pics - how much clearance did you gain?
Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
Wouldn't the thin flush mount (direct to radiator) work the same? or actually better?
No, not at all. The shroud exposes the entire surface area of the core to the low pressure generated by the fans. If you mount the fans flush to the radiator without the shroud, only the area actually directly covered by the fans is getting the benefit the fans provide. 2 12" fans would cover ~226sq.in, while the overall core is ~435sq.in - close to double the area.
Part number of the fans you used and where did you get them? When my fans give up or I get board I might do something like this to make my life a little easier with te 8 rib and Alradco. Also, keep us updated on how the epoxy holds up.
About 7/8 of an inch by back of nub on motor but...losing those gangly stock protection ribs is always what caught on water pump outlet and pulley. Raven whats with that belt and pulley setup? That looks sweet! Is that a Gates belt?
[QUOTE=raven154;18661131]Part number of the fans you used and where did you get them? When my fans give up or I get board I might do something like this to make my life a little easier with te 8 rib and Alradco. Also, keep us updated on how the epoxy holds up.
ZIRGO ZFB12S thru amazon. But these are some of the cheapest. There are some serious slimline 12 inch fans sucking some serious CFM but this is just a precursor fan build. The normal 3.5 to 4 inch tall fans suck even more and you can spend 250 on one and hit over 4000 CFM. With a freon mister, I bet engine would make Ice cream lol.
VeryWhiteDevil is going to do it too with nicer fans.
I just compared on ebay, amazon and looked at derale, becool, spal etc. I now know it can be done and how and will redo when I drop 427 in.
The JB plastic WaterWeld should be indestructible, we shall see though he he.
That is nicely done! But, why? Wouldn't the thin flush mount (direct to radiator) work the same? or actually better? When you had the shroud out.... a lot of people, cut holes or patterns in the shroud so air flows better. Helps with cooling, hurts ac efficiency (recirculates the air).
If my fans give out, or i am not getting the cooling power i need i may just try that and mount the fans directly to the rad...
If my fans give out, or i am not getting the cooling power i need i may just try that and mount the fans directly to the rad.
You can and it would be easier but you will be giving up tons of heat transfer ability. Since that is the whole point of a radiator and you are in the sand box I would be very hesitant to go that route.
This does give me some hope that I might be able to get an ALRADCO in mine. With the current 4" intake setup I don't have enough room... It is on the shroud now but I may be able to take some height out of the shroud with fans like these.
You can and it would be easier but you will be giving up tons of heat transfer ability. Since that is the whole point of a radiator and you are in the sand box I would be very hesitant to go that route.
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You lose zero heat transfer ability. What you lose is air moving over the entire radiator. Some of thos will be countered by aftermarket fans ability to
Move a substantially greater amount of air.
Not running a shroud has been done numerous times and is proven to work. The only time I would fear temps would be stop and go traffic in 110 degree heat.
But running a 160 degree thermostat and fans to kick on at 180low/185 high, would give you the ability to watch the temps climb and tell you if you were in trouble and in fact need a shroud/or the direct mount fans are insufficient.
Now your air conditioning condenser efficiency in town or traffic would most def suffer greatly.
You lose zero heat transfer ability. What you lose is air moving over the entire radiator. Some of thos will be countered by aftermarket fans ability to
Move a substantially greater amount of air.
The only way that is a true statement is if the fans move enough air to make up for loss of heat transfer from the portions of the radiator without air flow. My comment was directed towards a true shroud/no shroud comparison (no difference in fan capacity). For a radiator to work there must be a temperature gradient so there is heat transfer out of the radiator. No air being pulled through the radiator equals extremely small temperature gradients and very little transfer.
The only time I would fear temps would be stop and go traffic in 110 degree heat.
Right, this is the only time that fans are really required because while the car is moving the wind through the grill creates the airflow. As we were talking about fans I was limiting my comments to what happens when fans are needed.
Not running a shroud has been done numerous times and is proven to work.
Define proven to work. Proven to work driving down the road? Yep, agreed 100%. Work in stop in go traffic in a hot climate? I don't think so. I would hate to see what my engine temps looked like around here with half the heat transfer capacity...
160 degree thermostat and fans to kick on at 180low/185 high,
Unless you are talking about an aftermarket fan controller you can't do that (at least on an LS2).
The earliest you can turn the fans on is 192. Also, the 160 degree thermostat will put you in a situation where you are giving up potential hp from the engine running too cool the majority of the time.
Again could you do all of this and make something kind of work. Sure but I wouldn't call it a performance upgrade. After spending the money NAF has on his V I just wouldn't go this route but... his car his call.
The backside of your new fans aren't as open as the stock ones. Any concern about that?
No, they seem to work just fine. I will say though wrt the other posts, I was surprised to see temps climb as high as 235 in stop and go on I-95 in 22 deg outside temps with no fan or shrouds. Temps stayed at 192 to 194 whenever moving.
02-10-2015, 11:57 AM
Slimline fan graft into stock shroud complete. 
