heybro

Im considering getting a 04-07 cts-v as a daily driver. It will have to have under 100k miles but besides that what should i look for? What are the common problems?

thanks

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Look for mods, the more mods the less likely it will be a flawless daily driver. Also look at the stream of drivers. younger obviously means more burnouts and issues.

My advice, look for a 2009-13 V and start from there. Parts are becoming an issue, and you will be getting a newer machine that make more efficient power and mileage...

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Find a stock car (or one with some of these mods) and plan on doing the following to make it a comfortable, quite, vibration free yet aggressive daily driver.

LS7 clutch kit. The stock dual mass sucks.

Visit the following link to Creative Steel and get their soft motor mounts, their soft cradle bushings and their new shifter with noise isolator. All the stock stuff is too soft and all the harder polys are too stiff for DD duty...its a Cadillac.

https://creative-steel.com/product-c...-v-year-04-07/

Fill the stock transmission mount with window weld (still mounted in the car with the weight of the transmission still on it) as in my opinion the CS mount is too tall and mine separated.

Send the driveshaft out for a soft poly insert because the stock one is almost certainly shot and the aftermarket options are less than ideal for DD duty....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...t-bearing.html

I've tried other combinations but in my mind, the above will be the way to go for a refined daily driver. Drive the car and if you want a faster car, go find it and leave this one alone.

Learn to live with the driveline clunk unless you are willing to spend 4k on an 8.8 swap. Shy away from clutch dump burnouts and no lift shifting unless you like working on the car or spending money on repairs.

Mine has 223k on it, 60K of it in the last year. The link below is to the maintenance I've done to the car. Happy with it thus far.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...ul-thread.html

There will be a lot of disagreement here but I drive a lot and don't want a noisy *** car. Good Luck!

isis

iTrader: (1)

I agree with all of this except for the trans mount. I did not have the awful experience that this gentleman did. I stuck in a revshift insert and it went/works fine.

Also, change all your fluids when you get it. Brakes, clutch, trans, rear diff, engine oil, coolant.

ryridesmotox

I went with 95a (hard) urethane motor mounts, rear subframe, differential, sway bar bushings, and a CS trans mount (not 95a urethane, they use a softer compound I believe).

Also have:
12lbs Katech Flywheel
LS9 clutch
Philistine master cylinder
Hurst short throw
Stainless works header back exhaust

And the car is getting the stock LS6 yanked on Monday. Its been sold. Has 100,200 miles, doesn't smoke, uses very little oil, doesn't leak, runs strong.

I'm putting a 403 (6.6L) stroker in it. Still gonna daily drive it and take it to the track. As long as the Mods are done right, no worries. It will be fine. But if someone cuts corners and does a half assed job, it doesn't matter how good the parts are, its gonna run and drive like ****.

As far as what to look for, try and get one where at least the rear subframe bushings and motor mounts have been done. That helps like 90% of wheel hop and motor shake. My stock motor mounts were so bad, my headers would hit my steering shaft on the drivers side... So yea, new ones. Motor mounts are the #1 issue, #2 is wheel hop, rear subframe bushings help a lot. The stock shifter does the job, but only barely. You want to put in shifter bushings at the very least, add a short throw as well. Other than that, its an LS block with a manual trans, it ain't gonna break a whole lot.

rand49er

1) Differential may whine a bit, just make sure it isn't too loud.

2) When shutting off motor, a shuddering sound may indicate bad motor mounts.

3) NAV buttons will probably be chipped. Can replace them for not too much money.

The rest is pretty much normal stuff you'd look for in any stick-shift car like rear tire wear, slipping clutch, general condition of body and interior, odd noises during test drive, smoothness of synchros, maintenance records (if any), perceived honesty of owner, etc.

Good luck!

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

60k miles in the last year. What, do you live in your damn car.

ryridesmotox

Its registered as a Recreational Vehicle

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Just about lol.

I commute 63 miles each way 5 sometimes 6 or 7 days a week and I drive to our home office in Detroit every couple of months or so...

Yes, I live in it...

go4lucas

How much stiffer do they feel than the stock mounts? I am going to be doing motor mounts and cant decide on the hardness. I dont track the car just drive like 10 miles/day to and from the university

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

More efficient mileage from a V2? I get better city mileage from my '06 than the average V2 gets on the highway. Insurance, tires and depreciation are all far cheaper on a V1 for being a DD. You can get a great condition V1 for $15k.

ryridesmotox

Its personal preference. I prefer a solid car, don't mind the vibration and noise. But my wife doesn't even notice. So there is that, just as a comparison.

I think he means they make more efficient power... As in, its easier to modify them. And mileage being, lower total miles.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

I certainly agree they make more efficient power. Just their blower alone is more efficient than options for V1. For me my LS2 with headers have plenty of power. I improved the handling with some sway bars. I like twisty roads and want it to be as responsive as possible. Very happy overall and it's good as my DD.

ryridesmotox

Yea the V1 is far more fun IMHO. I'm getting ready to take my motor out tomorrow. I wouldn't have the money to modify a V2. To me, half the enjoyment is wrenching on my own cars.

rand49er

I saw it get to 3 deg today for a high temp, and that was only for less than an hour this afternoon. Must be nice to work on your car at this time of year.

What you have in store? (It's probably posted somewhere; I just don't recall what.)



EDIT: Oh ... found it: https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ker-again.html

Becker

iTrader: (4)

yup it was about 80 degrees here yesterday

ryridesmotox

Yep, that's it... Hoping for 500 at the wheels. But all accounts, that may be fairly conservative guessing lol we'll see. 4.005 bore 4.000 stroke, forged rotating assembly. L76 heads, but I'm gonna put LS3 intake valves in (lighter) and have a nice clean valve job done. And I'm gonna have a gnarly cam spec'd. If it ain't enough, I'll throw a 125-150 shot at it and see what's up.

heybro

thanks guys great stuff. i agree with the comment of a v1 for around 15k and i see most v2's for around 30k so v1 is my only option right now. i have a c5 now and plan upgrading that soon also. what kinda mpg do you get? do the v1s exterior just come in black silver red and just one type of blue?

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

2004 to 2006 came in black, stealth grey (not blue), silver, and red. 2007 came in the same colors except stealth grey was replaced with thunder grey, which I have and it's beautiful.

isis

iTrader: (1)

I get around 18mpg on my commute and up to 24mpg on the highway.