R&D Transmission 2007 cts-v
04-06-2015, 08:30 PM
#1
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R&D Transmission 2007 cts-v I'm making preparations to remove the Trans from my 07 -V and have a question. In the sticky above, no mention is made about supporting the engine during the removal. I've dropped the drive train out of C5 and C6's, and you need to support at the rear of the engine. Is it needed for a -V?
04-06-2015, 09:00 PM
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Thanks, it IS help and I do appreciate. I might keep a 2x4 handy, but if your experience is there is no need for support, you most likely are correct. It looks like the motor mount is more rearward on the -V
04-06-2015, 09:18 PM
#4
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I haven't supported mine either time my trans came out. Once was with the horrible stock motor mounts, once with 95a urethane. Nothing of issue that I noted. The thing about mine is it never seems to want to come off easy, like there is a ferocious superhuman gremlin in there holding the trans to the motor like superman
Edit: as a side note... Separate the trans from the bell housing first. At least with my car, there isn't the room to remove the trans and bell housing as one unit. I have done it in an Fbody but for some reason had a lot of trouble on my V (2004 by the way)
Edit: as a side note... Separate the trans from the bell housing first. At least with my car, there isn't the room to remove the trans and bell housing as one unit. I have done it in an Fbody but for some reason had a lot of trouble on my V (2004 by the way)
04-06-2015, 09:34 PM
#5
Just follow the sticky. It's a great write-up and I used it for my first time pulling the trans. I don't really think he missed any steps. Only thing you'll need is the correct torquing sequence for flywheel and pressure plate. That's in a different thread on here somewhere, unless you remember it from working on Vettes...
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04-11-2015, 02:05 PM
#10
I had an engine hoist when doing my clutch/mounts so I pulled the mounts, let the engine down with the hoist, did the clutch with more room to work with cause the engine was lower and only after doing the clutch did I put the new mounts in. Didn't drop it too far cause I didn't want to pull on anything but that extra inch or two helped out.
The shifter base and the heat shield slid right out (5 minutes well spent) giving me a clear view of the bell housing and the wiring harness that runs along the backside of the engine.
The shifter base and the heat shield slid right out (5 minutes well spent) giving me a clear view of the bell housing and the wiring harness that runs along the backside of the engine.
04-13-2015, 08:21 AM
#11
What do you mean by R&D? Remove and..... I have seen R&R remove and replace.......but R&D to me is research and development. 
To everyone else's point I feel like you need to not support it to get the trans out, but if you're leaving it out for a while I would support it then. Just some blocks or a jack under the oil pan is plenty. But to let the motor hang for extended periods of time puts a stress on the MM that wasn't intended. Regardless of which MM you have. I wouldn't leave my UMI mounts sit there like that. JMO
To everyone else's point I feel like you need to not support it to get the trans out, but if you're leaving it out for a while I would support it then. Just some blocks or a jack under the oil pan is plenty. But to let the motor hang for extended periods of time puts a stress on the MM that wasn't intended. Regardless of which MM you have. I wouldn't leave my UMI mounts sit there like that. JMO
04-30-2015, 05:30 PM
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Well, the trans is out and I can tell the clutch has never been touched. It was just about shot. The flywheel had deep scores in it, the clutch disc was badly grooved as well. I don't think I had any hydraulic issues, but the boot on the slave was broken and everything a greasy mess. Determined that the trans input shaft seal is gone and it left a lot of goo. Also had a rear main seal leaking, adding to the mess.
Funny thing, never got a drop of oil on the floor. The old girl seems to "hold it in".
I sent the trans to Texas drivetrain and I'm comfortable they will do a good job. I am going with their stage 2 rebuild, and I figure I will need the mainshaft rebuild. According to Jason at TDP, gear 6 galls the shaft and they have a weld build up repair that restores the mainshaft.
I bought a LS7 clutch, flywheel and slave from Tick.
My -V has a new trans mount and a new driveshaft. The stickers from the factory are still on them.
While it is apart, I'm planning on solving a camber adjustment problem with the rear. I have almost -2 deg neg camber in the rear and the only adjustment is at the limit. I plan on pulling the suspension apart looking for bad bushings. If I can't find any, then I plan on making the adjustment slot longer so I can take out some camber in the rear.
Funny thing, never got a drop of oil on the floor. The old girl seems to "hold it in".
I sent the trans to Texas drivetrain and I'm comfortable they will do a good job. I am going with their stage 2 rebuild, and I figure I will need the mainshaft rebuild. According to Jason at TDP, gear 6 galls the shaft and they have a weld build up repair that restores the mainshaft.
I bought a LS7 clutch, flywheel and slave from Tick.
My -V has a new trans mount and a new driveshaft. The stickers from the factory are still on them.
While it is apart, I'm planning on solving a camber adjustment problem with the rear. I have almost -2 deg neg camber in the rear and the only adjustment is at the limit. I plan on pulling the suspension apart looking for bad bushings. If I can't find any, then I plan on making the adjustment slot longer so I can take out some camber in the rear.