RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

So I killed my old alternator when I put a bad battery in thinking it was good. I put a new one in, and the car runs freaking awesome, but, at startup, I get the dreaded battery light, and "battery not charging", with a voltage of 12.2, until I blip the throttle, then the battery light goes off, and the voltage automatically jumps to 14.6-14.7, and it's fine.

I can't help but think it's my under drive pulley ******* with me. By the way, I've already checked the 2 wires going to the plug, and they're intact as far as I can see.

Now, if it's an issue with the ud pulley, I'm fine with blipping the throttle at startup.

It's weird, because the car has never run better.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

Update: drove it around for a little bit, went to advance and got the charging system tested, which it passed, and now the light is off every time.

Maybe it just needed to get settled in or something?

I'll check it in the morning and update even more.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I installed a high output alternator and it came with a smaller pulley.

When I asked about it, they said that it was to insure it spun fast enough at idle to stay "on".

With a ud pulley I am sure that is your problem.

As long as you can get the alternator to "light", don't fret.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

Thanks heavy. Incidentally, the optima redtop you told me sucked after my return period was up is what killed the old alternator. Although, it was 11 years old, so whatever.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I had Optimas in all my cars until their quality took a dump.
Now I use Odyssey and they seem to work fine.

You can always get a smaller pulley for the alternator.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

That's what I'm thinking, although I think it's strange that my old one didn't do this.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

They can run right on the hairy edge of turning on because of electronic differences.

You might go over the block to battery ground above the starter motor and see if that helps.

I ran a redundant pair of wires from the alternator to the battery (0 gauge and a lot of work)

I would change pulleys if that doesn't help.

itsdaveonline

Get it tested elsewhere for confirmation. My buddy had a similar issue in a different vehicle, it tested fine at autozone, but at another parts store it did not test out. Turns out it was a bad voltage regulator on the alternator. A different alternator fixed the issue.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Where'd you get this alternator?

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

found them on ebay, called them and bought it from them

http://www.hiteparts.com/

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

This morning, I installed a reman one from hiteparts as well. On first startup, I got the battery not charging message but once I revved it a bit, it turned off and I haven't seen it since. I guess that's normal.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Damn, as I suspected. I have one of their reman's sitting around waiting to install. If that message persists for you guys I will probably be looking at just getting an OEM unit from rock auto or somewhere. That message would get annoying. The guy that referred me to them said his does it too sometimes if the startup rpms don't get high enough.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

The thing is, mine isn't a reman. It's a brand new in box Delco unit.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

My guess is functional units that don't pass all tests get bought up cheap by them and re-sold.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Get a smaller pulley.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

Heavy, it's randomly doing it so driving now, so I bought a replacement harness for the alternator. How do I know what size pulley to get?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

You might look at these:

http://alternatorparts.com/alternator-pulley-size.html

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

just to be clear, mine threw the battery not charging warning the first time I started it and went away (and stayed away) after I goosed the throttle. since then, I'm running 14.6v at the battery and no AC current (indicating bad diodes)

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

How is 14.6V at the battery a bad thing and where are you trying to find AC current? The AC should stop at the rectifier within the alternator... ?

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

I'm saying things are fine. I tripped the not charging light once but, since then, things are a-ok. Signs things are ok: 14.6v and no AC at the battery.