actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Looking good I like it

Choppy_Idle

Nice colour, paint or vinyl?

You leave rest in chrome/silver or did it become dark/black like lights or grilles?

Regards,
Ronald

tlorenzen

Thanks...Plasti-dip. Came out really well but it was a lot of work. Accents are all chrome/silver...for now. Planning on changing that next weekend I think.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Did you use a wagner type sprayer for that? Sure looks smoother than a rattle can job.

tlorenzen

Yes. I borrowed my friends DYC sprayer system which is essentially the same thing as the wagner. It came out smoother than expected, especially after applying dip coat. I used about 4.5 gallons in total. (bought 5) 3 gallons of Gunmetal Grey (base) and 2 gallons of Anthracite Grey. Probably a little more than you need but it should come back off very nicely and had very little color variation.

I will try to get my roommate to bring out his DSLR this next weekend to get some quality pics.

Choppy_Idle

I would made the opposite of it, plasti dip on accents and vinyl or paint over hole car!

Is it now only hand wash, heard about peel off on edges, because of brushes from a automatic wash box?!

Good luck, matte colour looks great on a V1

Best regards,
Ronald

tlorenzen

I dipped the entire car for $350 total...Otherwise I would've considered vinyl or actually painting the whole car. I will eventually paint the whole car when the dip goes bad...or just re dip it...we'll see when the time comes.

I always hand wash my car anyways, but I don't imagine a brushed automatic carwash would do the dip well. It is surprisingly sturdy though. My friend sprayed his stang about a year ago and it still looks the same as it did the day we did it and he doesn't exactly take care of it well. Another friend did his 370 and it came out looking like ****...Dip can be tricky sometimes.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

I've split CV joints on 1-2 shifts easy.

TL, Good job on the dip brother.

tlorenzen

Thanks OD.

So I've successfully wrecked a set of tires in 3 months....The inside walls are shot from the amount of camber I'm at and some amount of hoonerie involved.

On the plus side, I got new TPMS today so I can now use competition mode and turn stability completely off...

barrok69

For what it's worth, you should check your toe settings. I've been running pretty aggressive -2° up front and -2.3° rear for camber and spin the tires quite often without any significant wear on the inside.

Unless you were just doing standing burnouts... then well, yeah.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

Alternatively, deleting all 4 and driving about 40-50 miles will allow you to use competition mode. All tires will go to --- and you can turn off stability as well once that happens.

I took all mine off and wrapped em up in aluminum foil. When I'm at the track, I don't have to worry about the tire light on when my pressure is at 20 or lower.

tlorenzen

Toe is as follows. Do you think it would be worth going with the CS toe rods?
FRONT
Left:0.10°
Right: 0.10°
Total: 0.20°

REAR
Left: 0.10°
Right 0.05°
Total: .15°

Camber -2.4/2.7 Front, -3/2.4 Rear

That was as of 3 months ago...I've done new bushings since and I'm going to try to go get another alignment tomorrow to see if they can get it a bit better. Only 1 standing burnout, just to test the bushings out haha.

OD, I considered that but I won't be going to the drag strip until I get myself a CS 8.8.... I do a lot of highway driving so if I get a screw in a tire (like last week) getting a notification that the tire is going flat before its totally there is nice.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

good looking job. i like the stance. what is bringing the ride height down?


****edit, nevermind i went back to page one and saw they are H&Rs. i read it a while ago and just didnt notice the stance until your latest pics. keep up the good work.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

The alignment and camber don't seem too extreme. Not enough to eat tires in 3 months.

If it's just the rears you can blame the burnouts or any hooning. My fronts usually wear faster than my rears considering I don't do much hooning.

You can improve that rear camber in one of two ways.
1. Raise the ride height. This can be done with a different spring or a spring spacer. I used a 3/8" piece of rubber I cut to fit underneath the rear H&R springs. I didn't care for the tucked look and my DSR tire was rubbing the fender lip on hard turns.

or

2. Detach the control arm from the subframe and extend the slot that the arm bolts into on the backside (toward the center of that car). A small grinding wheel similar to a dremel or rotozip can work. You'll see that the current position is maxed out against the backside of that slot. Extending this will let you bring the lower arm farther back adding positive camber.

tlorenzen

Thanks Bigt...

Bud, im planning on doing option 2 when I get some time on a weekend. I picked up a junk set of tires to hold me over until I get to it. I've considered raising the car a smidge since I very ocasionally scrape the fender well as well but I enjoy the stance it has currently.

A cool shot from Brevard Motorsports this weekend on our cars and coffee cruise.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

Looking clean there. Any plans on hitting track with this one?

tlorenzen

Thanks OD. I'm going to wait till I get an 8.8 (Hopefully this years black Friday sale) until I hit the strip. I'm planning on trying to get in a couple AutoX events this springs though.

Anyone have any pictures of the wire that connects to the bottom of the coolant reservoir? Mine is disconnected and I cannot find the wire anywhere....

tlorenzen

This is the wire I'm looking for that has magically disappeared....

onebad636

iTrader: (13)

If the plug got ripped off or something let me know. I am pretty sure I still have that one.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Its a lot of work to take the coolant tank out. Better try and feel from beneath. You want to check from under the car around the steerin shaft..