Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Maggied LS6

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Old 05-09-2016, 08:22 AM
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In the tune there is max torque outputs to protect the drivetrain, that could be activating

But plz limit yourself to 2-4wot pulls for the sake of your drivetrain
Old 05-09-2016, 10:06 AM
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One thing I've noticed on occasion, with traction and stability off (press and hold for 5 sec), in first gear, under full acceleration (usually lots of tire spinning with this), the power will cut out like traction control is on. And then come right back. Maybe 1 out of 10 times. And it's been up around 5k or 6k rpm. Is this a tune issue? Belt slip? Idk what's going on... any ideas? This was noticed before the tuning adjustments were recently made.
Get a log of the problem. Just guessing I would look into knock. If the car pulls timing you will definitely feel the reduction in power.
Old 05-15-2016, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Sssnake
Get a log of the problem. Just guessing I would look into knock. If the car pulls timing you will definitely feel the reduction in power.
Would a knock appear in only 1st gear?
Old 05-15-2016, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Naf
In the tune there is max torque outputs to protect the drivetrain, that could be activating

But plz limit yourself to 2-4wot pulls for the sake of your drivetrain
Why not 1st or 5th?

It did not want to come out of reverse today, took 2 hands to pull it out. (TWSS)
Old 05-15-2016, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ls1drew
Why not 1st or 5th?

It did not want to come out of reverse today, took 2 hands to pull it out. (TWSS)
That would be a clutch problem in my opinion. After that you're looking at hard parts in the trans like a bent shift fork.
Old 05-18-2016, 12:11 PM
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Clutch is brand new, only about 1500 miles. It's only happend that one time.

Anyone have advice before I take this thing to the track friday?
Old 05-23-2016, 09:56 AM
  #47  
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Got a retune done, as the tuner agreed that 12.4 up top was too lean. It cost me 15hp and now the wideband is showing low 10s all the way though the rpm range. Is this too rich? Seems like common practice is in the mid 11s....
Old 05-23-2016, 10:06 AM
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11 flat-ish may be a safe bet, little lower if it's hot and humid where you are. Frankly, giving up 15 ponies for some insurance seems smart to me unless you have the funds/motor ready to go.
Old 05-30-2016, 06:29 PM
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So wheel hop is completely gone on the street, but was still there like stock at the track. Now what do I do?
Old 05-30-2016, 09:52 PM
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Mine is dialed in at 11.80s near redline. Nice and safe. 10s is real fat..
Old 08-14-2016, 01:53 PM
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Made it to Cedar falls for my first time at a 1/4 mile track. Started with a 13.2 and kept jetting better.

The torque management was killing my 60' so I will be having that disabled asap.


Old 08-14-2016, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Ls1drew
Made it to Cedar falls for my first time at a 1/4 mile track. Started with a 13.2 and kept jetting better.

The torque management was killing my 60' so I will be having that disabled asap.



Why are you only trapping 112 mph?
Old 08-15-2016, 12:11 PM
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? Seems about right to me...
Old 08-15-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ls1drew
? Seems about right to me...

Not with 150 more rwhp then stock. I've seen a bone stock V1 trap 109 mph.

I expected to see 116-120 mph. Oh well.....

Last edited by 88BlackZ-51; 08-15-2016 at 01:45 PM.
Old 08-15-2016, 07:57 PM
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This is my stock power 05
Old 08-17-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 88BlackZ-51
Not with 150 more rwhp then stock. I've seen a bone stock V1 trap 109 mph.

I expected to see 116-120 mph. Oh well.....
WOT 1-2 shift is my bet. That tire roll over was enough to defeat my trap speed 5mph and .15-.2 off my best time.

Op can confirm/deny... Lifting on one two shift or not?

12.6 @ 116 was my best on my one track visit that I didn't blow out the getrag.

Last edited by greddy91; 08-17-2016 at 10:55 AM.
Old 08-17-2016, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ls1drew
Why not 1st or 5th?

It did not want to come out of reverse today, took 2 hands to pull it out. (TWSS)
Weak link after rear swap is the t-56... that tranny is great in a lighter car, but you're moving double the weight of the cars most effectively using this tranny.

After I installed my B&M, for no plausible reason, I couldn't get into 1st or reverse. I loosened the two top bolts to drop the shifter back off the chassis and worked them back in slowly assuring that the gears would engage in 1st and reverse... found that bringing the shifter up equally - one turn on one bolt one turn on the other, then stop to verify the gears were reachable (giant slow pain in the ace) - all the way to the top; eliminated the binding.

I would start there before diagnosing the tranny, but at our weight and power levels - the output shaft in the t-56 is the next to go.

My $.02



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