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I remember liking the design of GForce two piece driveshaft design when it was available. Doesn't look like they offer these anymore. I know at least one member here has one, but I forget who it was. I believe he regularly road races his car, so that narrows it down to about 3-4 guys.
Well the trans hit RSG yesterday and George said they are finishing it up now. I looked back at the close-ratio gears and saw that with my (rear)gears I was going to be turning a lot of RPMs in 6th at cruising speeds(like north of 3K at 80). I don't see myself ripping in 6th any time soon so asked him to swap 6th from a .67 to .54. This will still give me 80MPH cruise at 2500RPM. 5th will drop off a cliff to 6th but if ever that's a big concern I can have 6th changed back. Still with the 4.56s if I shift 5th at about 7300 I'll drop into 6th at about 4650. Pretty sure my butthole will be making diamonds at that point so that is all theoretical!
See below for what I put in the calculator at Dragtimes(love that calc!) and what came out. Looks like once I make it out of first, RPMs won't drop much below 5K. If I can make the engine last like hat, should be a blast since I like rowing gears.
Based on this I am strongly considering lurking in the classifieds for a LS7 or similar block and short-stroking it. Just live in 6K-8K all day. Even if it doesn't end up being fast, it sure as hell will SOUND fast.
Well, if it doesn't fit now, it's because my hammer isn't big enough. 30" front plate to center of shifter. Going to be a weird cross member but that's the least of my worries ATM.
It's fantastic to see someone blazing a trail forward on the V1. Please take good notes--I wish I was at the same point in my mod list so that I could help you with the cross-brace design. Any impressions you have on shifting effort and feel between remote and direct would also be greatly appreciated.
Looks good but that's a long tailhousing. How much shorter will the driveshaft be?
IIRC, the stock driveshaft is about 61" long. Since he didn't give us a shot of the side, I'm guessing at the flange location, but it's probably 6-8" shorter. That's still 8-10" longer than most Mustang driveshafts. Still, it'll push the critical speed up, which is a good thing.
It's fantastic to see someone blazing a trail forward on the V1. Please take good notes--I wish I was at the same point in my mod list so that I could help you with the cross-brace design. Any impressions you have on shifting effort and feel between remote and direct would also be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, man. High expectations in the "all of the above" category. It's pricey but when the other vendors are wanting like $4K for a unit built with Magnum internals and you typically lose your core, this really makes sense..as long as you're in the market for a built trans. And while Brian's shifter really was godsend for the short time I drove it(before I lost my mind completely), I'll have a ton of shifters to pick from now.
By the rulers, it looks like this guy is going to be same or narrower than stock at every point except for the reverse lockout. Short of that and exhaust, I think this may be pretty straightforward.
Looks good but that's a long tailhousing. How much shorter will the driveshaft be?
Yes, my tailhousing is longer than your tailhousing. I wouldn't have it any other way.
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
IIRC, the stock driveshaft is about 61" long. Since he didn't give us a shot of the side, I'm guessing at the flange location, but it's probably 6-8" shorter. That's still 8-10" longer than most Mustang driveshafts. Still, it'll push the critical speed up, which is a good thing.
I'll get some more exact measurements soon but it looks to be about 33" to the end of the tailshaft. Guibo is about 25" on the stocker so we're losing 8" there. The slip-yoke will probably take up about 5" before the first joint. Can we subtract that for shaft length, or should that section be considered?
My hope, obviously, is that I can get this thing short enough with a one-piece CF shaft that can do 180MPH without shaking apart if I ever decided I really wanted to make myself poop my pants.
Bonus? I am pretty sure I can use the stock carrier bearing mount for a driveshaft loop!
I'll get some more exact measurements soon but it looks to be about 33" to the end of the tailshaft. Guibo is about 25" on the stocker so we're losing 8" there. The slip-yoke will probably take up about 5" before the first joint. Can we subtract that for shaft length, or should that section be considered?
IIRC, subtract it.
My understanding is that natural (resonant) frequency of each element in a shafting system is calculated separately. Since the driveshaft's torque tube is the longest and least stiff element in the driveline, its natural frequency is the first thing you'll encounter as rotational speed increases.
Well here is the damage from rain on the crank. I ran some Crocus cloth over it and this is etched a bit in. Seems like it may be OK because this is on the non-thrust side of the throw and in the middle of the two rods. Taking it to my buddies at Cam Motion tomorrow and they have offered to polish the whole thing for me. Hopefully re-assembling this weekend or next then can start to put the project back together. Looking forward to seeing how this trans sits in the car. Getting excited!!
Looks like that crank has some pitting too. You sure that's from it getting rain on it? Hope it can be polished up.
Yep. It was spotless previously but the shop where I rent some space developed a roof leak. Had a drop cloth(not waterproof) covering it all and this was an obvious rust spot from that. Dropped it off today; will know tomorrow.
I was totally in denial over the amount of work that remained to get this party restarted.So:
*Cleaned bores, cleaned bores, cleaned bores. SURPRISING how much **** will come out of a squeaky-clean cylinder. Hang around a sec and you'll get even more.
*Honed with ATF at about 1.5 strokes per second(that's what your sister told me worked best), about 20 seconds per bore with 4.125" 400-grit ball hone with a Milwaukee M18 drill on "1(low)" range - ~500RPM.
Right before honing:
How do you oil a ball hone? 6oz ATF in round can. Embarrassing how long it took me to brain up that solution. It was hot.
Right after honing and before cleaning:
I did build out my redneck deck sander..it worked reasonably well. Cleaned the deck and gave it about 8 quick passes on each deck.
In lieu of a proper bore brush, I decided to turn to the professional, Mr. Clean. Worked great, actually. 3:1 mix of hot water and Purple Power degreaser in a squirt bottle--squirt, scrub, squirt, scrub. Maybe 10 passes over all cyls. Then pressure-washed the whole thing, in and out.
Meh. I feel like all of those scratches are going to allow more blow-by than smooth cylinder walls would.
Edit: I guess I stand corrected. See also. Not sure if this is something that should be attempted with a drill brush, though.
Last weekend, I took the heads off for the first time ever... it was about time to install new lifters and gaskets, ARP bolts, a ported oil pump, and Cloyes Race Billet timing set and Katech C5-R chain. Mainly, I wanted to document the condition of the engine since I'm almost ready to install the LSX and sell the LS2. To be honest, I wasn't sure what I'd find. Was expecting a horror show. Instead, I found cam lobes in great condition, and about 1/8" carbon buildup on the piston heads that wiped off after a couple of applications of brake cleaner and a little coaxing with a plastic non-marring spudger (the kind you'd use to pry sensitive electronic ribbon cables off PCBs). My guess is that the carbon was mostly from the 24,000 miles prior to installing a catch can.
Before (passenger side)
After (driver side)
I'm sure I could've done more to clean/polish it up, but I don't care about this engine. Aluminum block, cast crank... meh. Cleaned the undersides of the 243 heads with brake cleaner and a Cyclo aqua soft shampoo brush at 1850 RPM (max speed on my Milwaukee M18 fuel drill).
For those of you who might remember, I had an issue where one of two valve retainer locks broke on my intake valve and went God knows where... I think the divot on the surface of cylinder #1 might indicate where it landed before being blown out the exhaust. I also found a couple valve seal spring pieces in the lifter trays--if they hadn't gotten stuck there, the remains probably would've fallen straight through and landed in the oil pan.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 09-07-2016 at 02:40 AM.
This is typical carbon buildup. This is the kind of thing that caused rattling on cold starts in LS motors, it was worst in the 6.0 trucks of the vintage. A good decarb, like BG, GM Top End cleaner or seafoam, every 30k or so will keep it down. Do an injector flush at the same time. Now that it's clean, if you use a can of Sea Foam every oil change and only use Top Tier gas, you can keep it really clean. A catch can will certainly slow it down too, but it's mainly a function of the gas.
08-22-2016, 11:49 AM
