V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap
10-27-2016, 08:19 PM
#101
TECH Regular
If the suspension layout of the 2nd gen helps with traction..... then cradle swap with 8.8 would be where it's at. Cmon Creative Steel !
10-27-2016, 08:29 PM
#102
The only interesting differences between the V1 and V2 subframes are the dual front differential mounts and the metal shaping/welding process improvements. The quality is a little better and it looks a little cleaner due to the reduction in the number of welds.
The thing that will really blow your mind is the CTS2/V2 gas tank in the V1 with the triple Fore Innovations pump module and staged controller. I've got the gas tank, several extra V2 buckets, and assorted stuff here, in the queue behind some other modifications. We could've saved so much money and time if we had only known that this stuff fit earlier.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 10-27-2016 at 08:53 PM.
10-28-2016, 08:48 AM
#103
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10-28-2016, 10:35 AM
#104
I think the point of this swap is to not need the ford diff with custom bracketry and instead scavenge some other bolt-in junkyard parts for less money. The 8.8 is still viable as it's a tried a true solution, but spending $4k on an $8k car isn't for everyone.
10-28-2016, 11:25 AM
#105
I've got an 8.8 but if I were doing it all over again, I'd lean towards a cts2/v2 swap as it should be pretty freakin cheap...it won't be long before the local pull-a-part will be loaded with the standard cts stuff.
But we still need a little more info....
1. what driveshaft/adpater would you have to use, where is it coming from and how much does it cost.
2. Which diff do we want? do we need the v2 6spd 3.73s or does the standard cts diff come with 3.73s like someone suggested? Will the standard cts diff hold up?
If standard cts stuff will holdup behind a stockish v1, it would be a no brainer for me. With a little shopping, I could probably make a standard cts cradle swap for less than $1500 depending on the driveshaft.
But we still need a little more info....
1. what driveshaft/adpater would you have to use, where is it coming from and how much does it cost.
2. Which diff do we want? do we need the v2 6spd 3.73s or does the standard cts diff come with 3.73s like someone suggested? Will the standard cts diff hold up?
If standard cts stuff will holdup behind a stockish v1, it would be a no brainer for me. With a little shopping, I could probably make a standard cts cradle swap for less than $1500 depending on the driveshaft.
10-28-2016, 12:54 PM
#106
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I think the OP said that his wheels stick out 1/4 more on both sides as well. This would help to try to fit a wider tire without using more spacers
10-28-2016, 02:04 PM
#107
The really hard hard part about running wide tires is finding a shop that does great fender work. The front fenders are low-risk because they're less than $150 apiece, but you only get one shot with the rear fenders.
10-28-2016, 04:48 PM
#108
TECH Regular
V2 get 3.23 auto and 3.73 manual
Base gets 3.23 & 3.42 with or without G80 LSD....3.73 is also available, not sure if they all have LSD or not.
Heard plenty of guys with 8.8s say they have wheel hop. IFF the gen2 cradle helps....having a strong 8.8 (with all its available ratios and diffs) would be awesome. A base rear suspension subframe is PLENTIFUL and low demand.....and as the OP showed, there are 33 splined outer options with two different lugs patterns 5x115/5x120.7.
V2 guys are already going through diffs...and manuals are short supply. Looks like DSS has most of the Parts already.
Base gets 3.23 & 3.42 with or without G80 LSD....3.73 is also available, not sure if they all have LSD or not.
Heard plenty of guys with 8.8s say they have wheel hop. IFF the gen2 cradle helps....having a strong 8.8 (with all its available ratios and diffs) would be awesome. A base rear suspension subframe is PLENTIFUL and low demand.....and as the OP showed, there are 33 splined outer options with two different lugs patterns 5x115/5x120.7.
V2 guys are already going through diffs...and manuals are short supply. Looks like DSS has most of the Parts already.
10-30-2016, 01:20 PM
#109
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Fuzzy looking forward to hearing about the gas tank. The triple for fuel would really help the high hp guys and I wish it would have been more developed as I am close to selling my car for a C7 for many of the limitations on the V1.
11-24-2016, 08:02 AM
#110
TECH Regular
Regarding the gas tanks. The V2 uses some kind of electric setup for the parking brake. it sits on top of the cradle, driver side. That may have something to do with the original thought that the fuel tank madw rear ceadle swapa incompatible
From what I've read, the base did not use this electric setup.
From what I've read, the base did not use this electric setup.
11-29-2016, 03:40 PM
#111
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Hmmmm. I got quoted $1900 for the cradle, diff, axles, and upper and lower control arms off a 2011 CTSV with 19,000miles. Looks like they pulled the car from the bottom of a lake though.
02-04-2017, 06:27 AM
#112
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I have a complete M6 V2 cradle in my possession. Hoping to hear from the OP how he addressed the D/S. Considering a couple solutions.
1.) An adapter plate to fit between the V1's 100mm CV and the V2's 108mm....Similar to CS 8.8 adapter. (Length undetermined.)
2.) Have the V1 driveshaft modified with a new 108mm flange.
Unfortunately, my V1 is also my daily...so this project is developing slowly.
1.) An adapter plate to fit between the V1's 100mm CV and the V2's 108mm....Similar to CS 8.8 adapter. (Length undetermined.)
2.) Have the V1 driveshaft modified with a new 108mm flange.
Unfortunately, my V1 is also my daily...so this project is developing slowly.
02-04-2017, 12:42 PM
#114
I have a complete M6 V2 cradle in my possession. Hoping to hear from the OP how he addressed the D/S. Considering a couple solutions.
1.) An adapter plate to fit between the V1's 100mm CV and the V2's 108mm....Similar to CS 8.8 adapter. (Length undetermined.)
2.) Have the V1 driveshaft modified with a new 108mm flange.
Unfortunately, my V1 is also my daily...so this project is developing slowly.
1.) An adapter plate to fit between the V1's 100mm CV and the V2's 108mm....Similar to CS 8.8 adapter. (Length undetermined.)
2.) Have the V1 driveshaft modified with a new 108mm flange.
Unfortunately, my V1 is also my daily...so this project is developing slowly.
02-04-2017, 05:42 PM
#115
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The V2 subframe geometry is identical to the V1 and so is the geometry of the control arms, tie rods, and trailing arms. I have a half dozen V1 and V2 rear control arms and spindles and they're virtually indistinguishable. The trailing arms are rotated 90 degrees for easier access to the bolts. Not a big deal unless you want to migrate your old trailing arms.
The only interesting differences between the V1 and V2 subframes are the dual front differential mounts and the metal shaping/welding process improvements. The quality is a little better and it looks a little cleaner due to the reduction in the number of welds.
The thing that will really blow your mind is the CTS2/V2 gas tank in the V1 with the triple Fore Innovations pump module and staged controller. I've got the gas tank, several extra V2 buckets, and assorted stuff here, in the queue behind some other modifications. We could've saved so much money and time if we had only known that this stuff fit earlier.
The only interesting differences between the V1 and V2 subframes are the dual front differential mounts and the metal shaping/welding process improvements. The quality is a little better and it looks a little cleaner due to the reduction in the number of welds.
The thing that will really blow your mind is the CTS2/V2 gas tank in the V1 with the triple Fore Innovations pump module and staged controller. I've got the gas tank, several extra V2 buckets, and assorted stuff here, in the queue behind some other modifications. We could've saved so much money and time if we had only known that this stuff fit earlier.
02-04-2017, 08:00 PM
#117
TECH Regular
OP states he had a 3.5" shaft made by DSS
02-05-2017, 02:32 PM
#119
Did a 4k rpm launch and NO WHEEL HOP. Also, no more gear whine on the highway and no vibration. The rear suspension doesn't squeak or clunk when going over bumps like it used to.
The car drives completely different, this is the way the car should have came from the factory.
The car drives completely different, this is the way the car should have came from the factory.
I'm on my 3rd rear end now and it's lived 13.7k into the swap, and is crying for mercy. I keep out of the throttle in the first two gears or it would have been toast long ago.
Gathering the parts is now a priority for me. This will be a project for this summer for sure.
