clutch is slipping, what to go with?
#1
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clutch is slipping, what to go with?
have to get a new clutch and am curious on peoples opinions. right now im leaving on the monster with the 18lb flywheel option. what clutches does everyone use?
ported 243s, cam coming soon.
thanks! 2005 CTS-V
ported 243s, cam coming soon.
thanks! 2005 CTS-V
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http://www.manticclutch.com/mantic-s...r2-ms1001.html
that one? whats the weight on their flywheel do you know? thats about the same price as the monster i was looking at
that one? whats the weight on their flywheel do you know? thats about the same price as the monster i was looking at
#4
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Monster Clutches Level 3 Clutch
Add a Tick Speed Bleeder Included
Pressure Plate and Flywheel Bolts Include ARP Pressure Plate (PT 134-2201) and Flywheel Bolts (PT 330-2802)
Flywheel Type Lightweight (18lbs)
$748.89
this is what i was looking at.,.. ive never liked the puck style as much in the past but was going to give it one more shot.
Add a Tick Speed Bleeder Included
Pressure Plate and Flywheel Bolts Include ARP Pressure Plate (PT 134-2201) and Flywheel Bolts (PT 330-2802)
Flywheel Type Lightweight (18lbs)
$748.89
this is what i was looking at.,.. ive never liked the puck style as much in the past but was going to give it one more shot.
#6
If you're going to spend that much, consider a McLeod RST (6912-07) or RXT (6932-07) for $700 + your choice of flywheel.
#7
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Ive been running monster stage 1... Feels nearly identical to stock to me... Tick recommended me the 28lb flywheel... I did the 18lb. It revs a tad faster... Main issue if it means anything to you is on Decel the car quickly loses momentum. They recommend 28 for street and strip and 18 for road racing. I love it overall
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hmm ok.
forgot to mention car is supposed to have an rxt in it right now. i never really liked it much either. but then again. i didnt put it in. dont know if thats actually whats in there haha
forgot to mention car is supposed to have an rxt in it right now. i never really liked it much either. but then again. i didnt put it in. dont know if thats actually whats in there haha
#10
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Do not get the monster stage 3. I repeat. DO NOT. IMO, either you stay just heads and cam with no goals for more....LS7 with aluminum flywheel.
If you plan on going north of 500whp in the future I'd go with the RST.
If you plan on going north of 700whp then go with the RXT.
For flywheel I'd call TDP and get their 15lbs steel flywheel.
Good luck!
If you plan on going north of 500whp in the future I'd go with the RST.
If you plan on going north of 700whp then go with the RXT.
For flywheel I'd call TDP and get their 15lbs steel flywheel.
Good luck!
#11
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Do not get the monster stage 3. I repeat. DO NOT. IMO, either you stay just heads and cam with no goals for more....LS7 with aluminum flywheel.
If you plan on going north of 500whp in the future I'd go with the RST.
If you plan on going north of 700whp then go with the RXT.
For flywheel I'd call TDP and get their 15lbs steel flywheel.
Good luck!
If you plan on going north of 500whp in the future I'd go with the RST.
If you plan on going north of 700whp then go with the RXT.
For flywheel I'd call TDP and get their 15lbs steel flywheel.
Good luck!
#12
Staging Lane
I did the Katech LS9 with the billet 2-piece flywheel and couldn't be happier.
Probably one of the more expensive options but IDGAF. Had plenty of people crying about "you don't need all that", but it's my car not theirs. Other than having to put the pressure plate in a press and center the captured clutch disc myself, didn't have any issues. Did the clutch, slave, and diveshaft bearing all at the same time, felt like a new car when I was done.
Probably one of the more expensive options but IDGAF. Had plenty of people crying about "you don't need all that", but it's my car not theirs. Other than having to put the pressure plate in a press and center the captured clutch disc myself, didn't have any issues. Did the clutch, slave, and diveshaft bearing all at the same time, felt like a new car when I was done.
#13
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Originally Posted by TST_brah
I did the Katech LS9 with the billet 2-piece flywheel and couldn't be happier.
Probably one of the more expensive options but IDGAF. Had plenty of people crying about "you don't need all that", but it's my car not theirs. Other than having to put the pressure plate in a press and center the captured clutch disc myself, didn't have any issues. Did the clutch, slave, and diveshaft bearing all at the same time, felt like a new car when I was done.
Probably one of the more expensive options but IDGAF. Had plenty of people crying about "you don't need all that", but it's my car not theirs. Other than having to put the pressure plate in a press and center the captured clutch disc myself, didn't have any issues. Did the clutch, slave, and diveshaft bearing all at the same time, felt like a new car when I was done.
#15
Yes it is. Oh I'm sorry were you hoodwinked by the machined slots that reduce performance and increase cost because they don't employ engineers and therefore don't know that a pressure plate isn't the same thing as a brake rotor?
#17
#18
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Complete ls7 clutch is by far the best choice imo. It only gave me issues with high rpm and no lift shifting. But that was after I broke 500whp and was doing a lot of runs.
also imo, I'm not a fan of running too light of a flywheel on a heavier car. I've found I can use the way the momentum carries rather than drops off,rather than the negligible increase in rpm speed.
All comes down to primary purpose of the car and personal driving habits
also imo, I'm not a fan of running too light of a flywheel on a heavier car. I've found I can use the way the momentum carries rather than drops off,rather than the negligible increase in rpm speed.
All comes down to primary purpose of the car and personal driving habits
#20
If you're referring to the V1s I think you're describing, those guys are running McLeod RXTs, but not McLeod 1300 series slaves. Some of them bought their RXTs during my group buy. Of the available adjustable slaves, the Tilton 6000 series slave (60-6105 specifically) is the superior option. It offers finer-grained adjustments (0.005" increments) without shim kits and doesn't require rebuilds every 6-12 months to control leaks. No more pulling the transmission to replace 4 o-rings and 2 roll pins to avoid filling your bellhousing with brake fluid.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 01-15-2017 at 09:22 PM.