Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Brake line opinions

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Old 01-01-2017, 10:06 AM
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I don't envy replacing the brake master. It's probably going to be a bear to bleed.
Old 01-01-2017, 10:13 AM
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It's not bad with a tech2 and the power bleeder.
Old 01-01-2017, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bmylez
Did you get air in the ABS? That's the easiest way to screw up a brake job. Also, do you know the correct bleeding pattern? It's a triangular system (I pulled this from Cadillac FAQ)
* Right rear inner
* Right rear outer
* Left front inner
* Left front outer
* Left rear inner
* Left rear outer
* Right front inner
* Right front outer
It's not triangular. There are two fully independent, cross-connected loops. The rear-to-front bleeding pattern is designed to ensure that you pull all the old fluid out of the system.

If you're bleeding manually, the above procedure is fine but when you're bleeding the system with a Tech 2, you should run through the program twice--once using the inner bleeder valves, and once using the outer valves. It doesn't give you the option to repeat individual steps or reverse the bleeding sequence.

Inner first vs. outer first is constantly debated but I agree doing inner first. It's best to get air bubbles trapped on the inside of the caliper out (and replace that air volume with fluid) before you finish the job using the outer valves.
Old 01-01-2017, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by vroom_vroom
It's not bad with a tech2 and the power bleeder.
The only thing that Motive Power Bleeders do is keep the reservoir filled. They can't generate enough flow to force entrapped air out of the system. Neither can the ABS pump motor (activated using the Tech 2), although it's much more effective than the Motive Power Bleeder.

Even with both pieces of equipment available, you still have to pump the pedal. How you pump the pedal is vital to a good bleed. Bleed using strong, smooth pedal strokes, holding the pedal for 2-5 seconds at the bottom of each stroke.

The hold time is determined by the equipment you're using. If the ABS module is pumping, bubbles are evacuated much faster. Therefore, you don't have to hold the pedal down long. If you release the pedal too quickly, the bubbles you just evacuated will be sucked back into the slave or local high point and trapped again. In extreme cases, I've seen it take 8-10 seconds for bubbles to travel all the way up the bleeder line from the clutch slave cylinder.

Once you think you're done, check your work with a couple of max effort pedal strokes. Down and hold for 5-10 seconds. If anything comes up, repeat until you see only clear fluid. Whatever you do, don't use these violent / max effort strokes in the beginning when there's a lot of air in the system. That's because the turbulence will aerate air pockets and make your job infinitely harder. These final efforts are only good for eradicating the last 1% of air in the nooks and crannies of the hydraulic system.

Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 01-01-2017 at 03:11 PM.
Old 01-01-2017, 08:38 PM
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I have yet to use the notice on this car, somehow I always end up using the vacuum bleeder. I know they call for the psi to be suspiciously high in the manual. Looks like that explains why
Old 01-01-2017, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by vroom_vroom
I have yet to use the notice on this car, somehow I always end up using the vacuum bleeder. I know they call for the psi to be suspiciously high in the manual. Looks like that explains why
If you do the math, you can achieve 500-2000 PSI by pumping the brake pedal. To pass governmental inspections, brake lines 3AN (3/16") and up are subjected to a pressure of 4000 PSI for 2 minutes and shall not rupture at less than 5000 PSI.

Compared to that, pressure and vacuum bleeders amount to nothing.
Old 01-01-2017, 11:24 PM
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I don't doubt the brake system can handle it. It's the reservoir I would question. All the plastic one I have come across just for give you a warm fuzzy feeling if you where to pressurize. But I have been wrong before.......
Old 01-01-2017, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by vroom_vroom
I don't doubt the brake system can handle it. It's the reservoir I would question. All the plastic one I have come across just for give you a warm fuzzy feeling if you where to pressurize. But I have been wrong before.......
The reservoir doesn't see that pressure. The pressure happens downstream of the piston in the master cylinder.
Old 01-02-2017, 12:12 AM
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I was referring to the power bleeder and you are talking about pumping the brakes.
Old 01-02-2017, 07:39 PM
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Hay fuzzy, the former set up that I had with the brembos had a smaller master (it was a swap) dose the booster on the v have that much *** you can run the pedal all the way to the stop ? It has a good bit of resistance I just feel like there should be more.
Old 01-02-2017, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by vroom_vroom
Hay fuzzy, the former set up that I had with the brembos had a smaller master (it was a swap) dose the booster on the v have that much *** you can run the pedal all the way to the stop ? It has a good bit of resistance I just feel like there should be more.
I can't press my pedal all the way to the stop, if that's what you're asking.
Old 01-02-2017, 11:32 PM
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Correct. That's pretty much what I thought but sometimes problems come from over thinking. There is no loss of fluid and it has been like this since I have owned. If you pump them they hold much firmer.



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